show off your mech! homebuilt mods only!

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david4500

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I thought that was just a splice...nice find on those fuses, exactly what I've been looking for myself (currently building a parallel 18650 bottom feeder in a Hammond 1550P, tight fit, even with my own mech. switch) , I've only been able to find 7A resettables. Link saved...

Looking at your workmanship...you have to be a tradesman?

Glad you can put those fuses to use. Thank you for the kind words. I'm a heavy equipment operator not a machinist or electrician or anything like that
 
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tiyantiyan

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Here is my VV/VW mod.

It's super light, less than half of the weight of a vamo. Depending on which vamo you use (aluminum / stainless), the total weight is about 30g - 70g.

It's very small, can be easily pocketed in my jean with the Taifun atomizer screwed on.

It's super easy to make, probably the easiest ever mod to make.
I made my second one in 5 minutes:toast:

IMG_2340.jpgIMG_2341.jpg


I give it a name SuperE mod

For more information, please check out this page. (Go to Post #5 for the second version, which looks better:))
 
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vapero

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Here is my VV/VW mod.

It's super light, less than half of the weight of a vamo. Depending on which vamo you use (aluminum / stainless), the total weight is about 30g - 70g.

It's very small, can be easily pocketed in my jean with the Taifun atomizer screwed on.

It's super easy to make, probably the easiest ever mod to make.
I made my second one in 5 minutes:toast:

View attachment 364839View attachment 364840


I give it a name SuperE Mod

For more information, please check out this page. (Go to Post #5 for the second version, which looks better:))

looks great!
 

likeego

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Jan 17, 2013
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Just finished my first mechanical mod build. It's a purely mechanical mod (no wires at all) and I made it from brass plumbing pipe from the hardware store and various bits and pieces that I also found there. Not perfect (battery rattles in it a bit as the tube is a bit on the big side) but I'm proud of my creation. I'm new to building mods so if anyone has any suggestions or sees anything that could be a danger that I may have missed please let me know! Pics are below :vapour:
 

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gandymarsh

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Just finished my first mechanical mod build. It's a purely mechanical mod (no wires at all) and I made it from brass plumbing pipe from the hardware store and various bits and pieces that I also found there. Not perfect (battery rattles in it a bit as the tube is a bit on the big side) but I'm proud of my creation. I'm new to building mods so if anyone has any suggestions or sees anything that could be a danger that I may have missed please let me know! Pics are below :vapour:
Very nice! I'm assuming it's 3/4" (or similar metric size) brass pipe but what are those end caps? Did you buy the pipe already threaded?
 

likeego

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Very nice! I'm assuming it's 3/4" (or similar metric size) brass pipe but what are those end caps? Did you buy the pipe already threaded?

Yes it is 3/4" pipe that was pre-threaded. I don't know what you would call the end caps but they are basically just threaded brass caps (from the plumbing section) with a rubber o-ring in them.
 

gandymarsh

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The end caps look like garden hose connections. I have thought of using something similar in some of the stuff I make.
Yep, they are garden hose caps. I googled and found them for about $1.50 each. The threaded brass nipple is not cheap online though, about $10. My local Fleet Farm has a 3/4" x 3" brass nipple for about $6 but I think it's too short for an 18650. They don't sell the caps, though. I haven't checked any other places here yet.

I'm still not sure how likeego made this work. The pics are making me scratch my head.
 

likeego

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The mod is kind of complicated. Took a while of thinking on how I could make a switch that would work. Basically the top cap has a slightly modified 510 to eGo adapter (I added an insulator from an old vivi-nova head to make the positive pin stick out a bit to contact the positive of the battery without shorting out) mounted from the bottom held in with a rubber o-ring that is pressure fit under another larger o-ring that fits snugly into the top cap. Then there is the tube in which I placed a small strip of stick-back foam in to hold the battery snugly (making sure to have a small air gap on one side to allow for venting from the top of the battery if it should ever occur out to the vent hole on the side of the tube). The switch employs a bottom cap, a brass plumbing stopper/cap (for those plastic plumbing pipes they use), a spring wrapped around the plumbing stopper, a screw, nut and a couple more o-rings. One o-ring is placed around the plumbing stopper to hold it in the bottom cap (so it doesn't fall out the bottom), and the other to add length to the tube so that the battery does not make contact on the negative end when you don't want it to. When it is screwed together and the button is pressed in the nut is pushed upwards and touches the negative of the battery, completing the circuit. Yes I know it is much more complicated than it has to be, but it was a fun project, and only took about 2 days to figure out. It also isn't the cheapest mod to build (about $40 in materials). A little drilling and fiddling around though an I had a new mod. Some more pics are below:
 

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asdaq

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The mod is kind of complicated. Took a while of thinking on how I could make a switch that would work. Basically the top cap has a slightly modified 510 to eGo adapter (I added an insulator from an old vivi-nova head to make the positive pin stick out a bit to contact the positive of the battery without shorting out) mounted from the bottom held in with a rubber o-ring that is pressure fit under another larger o-ring that fits snugly into the top cap. Then there is the tube in which I placed a small strip of stick-back foam in to hold the battery snugly (making sure to have a small air gap on one side to allow for venting from the top of the battery if it should ever occur out to the vent hole on the side of the tube). The switch employs a bottom cap, a brass plumbing stopper/cap (for those plastic plumbing pipes they use), a spring wrapped around the plumbing stopper, a screw, nut and a couple more o-rings. One o-ring is placed around the plumbing stopper to hold it in the bottom cap (so it doesn't fall out the bottom), and the other to add length to the tube so that the battery does not make contact on the negative end when you don't want it to. When it is screwed together and the button is pressed in the nut is pushed upwards and touches the negative of the battery, completing the circuit. Yes I know it is much more complicated than it has to be, but it was a fun project, and only took about 2 days to figure out. It also isn't the cheapest mod to build (about $40 in materials). A little drilling and fiddling around though an I had a new mod. Some more pics are below:

So when you fire the switch, it presses the battery up to contact the positive pin as well? When not fired the battery has too much free space to touch both positive and negative at the same time?

There was (maybe still is) the Saber Touch that used the hose caps and nipple, just they were further machined to hide the true identity of the parts. I picked up a pair of the hose caps and an aluminum nipple but never built anything with them as they turned out to be surprisingly big and heavy for a 18650, and that was with the aluminum nipple. That stuff is thick. Still, I think you did a fine job with this mod, and you might want to see if it works just the same with the battery positive facing down for better venting directions. If it doesn't work naturally then I really wouldn't worry about it.
 
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