Ok....I guess I'll start it off....I guess you can consider this a mech
That is gorgeous. I assume its regulated? What kind of wood? (MODERATED)
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show off your mech! homebuilt mods only!
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That is gorgeous. I assume its regulated? What kind of wood? (MODERATED)
Hey OP...sure you don't want to go back to just posting mech mods only?...and I'm expecting some haters but this is really meant as a cautionary note to those thinking they'd like to try and build their own mod 
Just swapped the batt in my last functional dna mod (two 30's and one 20 in a Bogger) and the screen just streaked out then it went into a constant re-boot cycle...that's official, 3 for 3 (though I will say, the last 30 held on for a whole 4 months)...all dry as a bone (no juice, I sealed the Bogger's dna capsule, that had problems written all over it), lots of room for cooling and never pushed past 80% max. output...I don't think I'm a hack builder, I've built dozens of mods (switched, mech'd and reg'd), including one running an OKR chip that's been used daily for 2 1/2 years now...
Here's how I see it...btw, these where all functional mods with weeks of use until....
1 dead DNA, I chalk it up to a "friday" chip, meh, it happens...2 dead DNA's, "what's with these things?", ah well, maybe it's just a coincidence...3 dead DNA's, this is a trend, I'm not convinced these things are "long haul/real world" ready...how about instead of releasing new versions for peeps to chase (and making them even more complicated, temp. control?, really?)...try improving their robustness
...or maybe it's just me, am I expecting too much?...it just seems like a lot of work for something that'll only last maybe 6 months?
Ah well, at least I've got 3 mods with all the infrastructure that matters (well 2, the Bogger would be a boat with the DNA, maybe I'll stick an OKR in there), shouldn't be hard to convert them over to true mechs...I'll stick to just changing my batts more often, way less hassle and waaaay more reliable imo...
Just swapped the batt in my last functional dna mod (two 30's and one 20 in a Bogger) and the screen just streaked out then it went into a constant re-boot cycle...that's official, 3 for 3 (though I will say, the last 30 held on for a whole 4 months
)...all dry as a bone (no juice, I sealed the Bogger's dna capsule, that had problems written all over it), lots of room for cooling and never pushed past 80% max. output...I don't think I'm a hack builder, I've built dozens of mods (switched, mech'd and reg'd), including one running an OKR chip that's been used daily for 2 1/2 years now...Here's how I see it...btw, these where all functional mods with weeks of use until....
1 dead DNA, I chalk it up to a "friday" chip, meh, it happens...2 dead DNA's, "what's with these things?", ah well, maybe it's just a coincidence...3 dead DNA's, this is a trend, I'm not convinced these things are "long haul/real world" ready...how about instead of releasing new versions for peeps to chase (and making them even more complicated, temp. control?, really?)...try improving their robustness
...or maybe it's just me, am I expecting too much?...it just seems like a lot of work for something that'll only last maybe 6 months?
Ah well, at least I've got 3 mods with all the infrastructure that matters (well 2, the Bogger would be a boat with the DNA, maybe I'll stick an OKR in there
), shouldn't be hard to convert them over to true mechs...I'll stick to just changing my batts more often, way less hassle and waaaay more reliable imo...
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I just made a really good deal today for a dna 30. Plans on putting in it in a wood box, or second to that a hammond A box either way small and pocketable. I didnt realize the were problematic.
Too bad, ill see how long it lasts.
Too bad, ill see how long it lasts.
Where did you find a good deal? I'm ready to graduate to authentic chips, and I found a reasonable price on MadVapes for both the chip and the usb charger.
I think this one fit's the criteria...
Fully sunk Atomic (hybrid'd so no real 510 conn.), Beryllium/polished silver 25A contact leaf for a switch, solid polished brass spring loaded neg (hence the fuse)., all wire (what there is of it) is #16 awg jewelry grade sterling silver (and silver solder)...all packaged up in as small as I could get it in Pauduk top/bottom, bubinga body...brass portholes are for air to the RDA is it is very tight tolerances.
Set-up and repair of the RDA is easy as it just screws out (after you remove the pos. nut)....coils are .5 #26 with rXw (so little maintenance anyway) very, very low V drop
Thinking that this may just be the scale working prototype, I plan on re-creating this in billet aluminum.
Fully sunk Atomic (hybrid'd so no real 510 conn.), Beryllium/polished silver 25A contact leaf for a switch, solid polished brass spring loaded neg (hence the fuse)., all wire (what there is of it) is #16 awg jewelry grade sterling silver (and silver solder)...all packaged up in as small as I could get it in Pauduk top/bottom, bubinga body...brass portholes are for air to the RDA is it is very tight tolerances.
Set-up and repair of the RDA is easy as it just screws out (after you remove the pos. nut)....coils are .5 #26 with rXw (so little maintenance anyway) very, very low V drop
Thinking that this may just be the scale working prototype, I plan on re-creating this in billet aluminum.
Quigs, that is just badass. I am loving the "squonk buttons" idea versus directly squeezing the bottle. Very innovative! 
Quigs, that is just badass. I am loving the "squonk buttons" idea versus directly squeezing the bottle. Very innovative!
Innovative, but not by me I'm sorry to say...gotta give credit where credit is due, I ripped that off a mod called a Phidias by Fonosmoak. The switch is a very amped version of the Reo...the rest is all mine.
There's so many hyper reg'd boxes out there now I just did the math (I'm an electrician)....honestly, any reg ran higher than 30-40W or so is kind of a waste of space and power (efficiency)...a reg may buy you an extra couple pulls off you batt but that's about it...so I thought it was time to take it back old school but still have some some serious capacity...though it's not my typical vaping, style, I built it to run sub-sub ohm...skip the efficiency hog of a reg., coil it appropriately, you'll need to change to a higher fuse, but the internals are built to easily handle 25A
I want a live video feed of your workshop and audio recordings of your brainstorms. Absolutely beautiful mod Quigs!
I had though about using automotive blade fuses in a 12V mod but didn't think it worked out when you dropped the voltage. Did you get a lower voltage blade fuse?
ETA - How do you fire the top mounted button? Thumb? I like the mechanics and pocket-ability of it but I can't figure out how I would easily push that button.
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Thanks but a live feed of my work methodology would certainly be the evidence needed to have me committed 
I'm going to be starting on a Hammond 1550P dual 18650 and V meter for a buddy and he hates top switches so I've been thinking about it as of late (I personally like top switches, no worries of pocket presses but meh, he wants what he wants...) I currently press the button with my index but that's entirely subjective.
Don't sweat the fuses V rating...you're well within the acceptable voltage threshold (it's the current that's the driver).
I'll post my attempt at a side button as I work out the detail.
I'm going to be starting on a Hammond 1550P dual 18650 and V meter for a buddy and he hates top switches so I've been thinking about it as of late (I personally like top switches, no worries of pocket presses but meh, he wants what he wants...) I currently press the button with my index but that's entirely subjective.
Don't sweat the fuses V rating...you're well within the acceptable voltage threshold (it's the current that's the driver).
I'll post my attempt at a side button as I work out the detail.
Beautiful on both counts. I hadn't looked into it yet but assumed (foolishly) that the different voltage would affect the actual trip amperage. That's great to know. I'll be fusing the 2nd one I build. I've decided to do a top switch since #2 will be a 1590G with dual 18650. No room for anything but the top switch and (hopefully) a fuse.
Ok I'll jump in even though you all put my mod to shame. A quick snap of my first mod. I don't really consider it a "mech" but some people might. Wasn't worried about aesthetics on this one, mostly testing out 8V (which, turns out I love) and learning from mistakes. Like using medium weight super glue for the cover magnets for instance.
It's all 12ga solid wire except the lead from the switch to the 510, which is 14ga stranded OFC. FDV 510, nothing special but it hits like a dump truck full of cinder blocks.
8V isn't really that bad a way to go, some will argue against me but I think you get faster heat up on your coils in series...though it does seem weird wrapping almost 2 ohms worth of coils eh? ...I will say that switch still looks a little light Amps handling wise though....please fuse that bad boy soon though...looks great!
Thanks a lot Quigsworth. Encouragement has been achieved.
Yes series is a totally different game. My first test was to rebuild my MutationX at 4x the resistance I had been using it at with one battery. That way I would have the same wattage as before. Went from parallel 26ga to parallel 30ga. INSTANT heat. The coolest part is the smoothness of the vape. No more coarse spitting heat, just a hiss.
Series banter aside, I'm not a fan of that switch either. It's a "60A" from China. I feel a lot better running it at 19A and would never go above 30 as that is what my batteries are rated at. Don't think I could handle or wick that setup though.
2 ohms?! Whatchu talkin bout Willis? I'm at 0.44 right now.
;-)
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They rated that momentary at 60A? (DC?)...I'd certainly believe that by looking at the connector lugs sized to accept #4 stranded...that switch would be every modders dream come true?...I think a decimal place was added in translation.
I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't already know but the Interweb lies...and some of the claims coming from off-shore can be insane...you just have to let logic be your guide....in in switching, the issue isn't making the contact (I'd still want full welding gloves and a face mask before I attempted to connect 60A with that thing) ...the big "IF" and it's a big one...will it break a 60A flow without it turning into plasma in your hand.
scary stuff...
I'm sure I'm not telling you anything you don't already know but the Interweb lies...and some of the claims coming from off-shore can be insane...you just have to let logic be your guide....in in switching, the issue isn't making the contact (I'd still want full welding gloves and a face mask before I attempted to connect 60A with that thing) ...the big "IF" and it's a big one...will it break a 60A flow without it turning into plasma in your hand.
scary stuff...
Oh absolutely. That's why I put "60A" in quotation marks. I knew when I bought it that it was nowhere near 60A. Was hoping it would handle 20 until I make a relay contact solution. Amperage is exactly why I went series. I have a super smart friend that suggested it. I told him I was looking for a super high amperage switch and he asked if there was going to be room for 9ga stranded wire in the mod to handle that amperage... I have done lots of car audio and hadn't realized I was asking the same amperage from my mod as I would a car subwoofer amp. Another friend that's way smarter than myself had a funny response to my question about where to find a 40A DC momentary. He had no idea why I wanted that and just replied "Google 'relay drive circuit' ".
Unfortunately I know guys that are selling mods with the same switch and they actually believe they are 60a. Super scary when they say their mod is capable of X amps when X is the total of the pulse ratings of all of the parallel batteries combined. Running 4 purple efest 35A in parallel does NOT mean you can build at 0.03 ohms, especially when all of that amperage is going through an over-rated Chinese momentary switch. The more I learn, the more my jaw stays dropped when at B+M stores. I couldn't believe what I heard from a customer last time.
"I hated dripping and getting dry hits until I got this regulated mod. No more dry hits." I couldn't make that up.
PS - Thanks for the warning BTW. Good looking out.
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I just received some 60A MOSFETs. By mechanical, does this mean, "no regulation"? I see folks posting stuff with wires, etc..., and just wanted to be sure. I've done a couple of wood epipes, but there's a couple wires up in there.
Tapa-shutup
Tapa-shutup
I agree, a "mech" has no wires or circuitry. I personally lump unregulated mods into the same category though.
Those 60 amp switches from china on ebay are actually 2-4 amps usually.
This one for example:
1x Momentary Push Button Off on Switch 12V 60Amp 110V | eBay
"for more information, please visit APEM, industrial and professional switches, joysticks, switch panels, LED indicators AV series PDF"
Ok.
AV Series APEM, industrial and professional switches, joysticks, switch panels, LED indicators
PDF:
http://www.apem.com/files/apem/brochures/switch-pushbutton-AV-ENG.pdf
The 19mm push button switches shown are 2-4 amps
This one for example:
1x Momentary Push Button Off on Switch 12V 60Amp 110V | eBay
"for more information, please visit APEM, industrial and professional switches, joysticks, switch panels, LED indicators AV series PDF"
Ok.
AV Series APEM, industrial and professional switches, joysticks, switch panels, LED indicators
PDF:
http://www.apem.com/files/apem/brochures/switch-pushbutton-AV-ENG.pdf
The 19mm push button switches shown are 2-4 amps
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