Side button Mech Mod
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The EA mod comes with a tube that takes a 18650 and a Kick.
I cant say as to the draw tube never owned one.
I cant say as to the draw tube never owned one.
I got it for $27 off vaportekusa.com. It's a polished Sigelei 13a. They were sold out of this specific one last I looked, but they still had a bunch of the all stainless ones!
The draw tube is a great mod, however it doesn't work with a 18650 and a kick.
Other than that the drawtube is a great APV.
Other than that the drawtube is a great APV.
Check this out: Anodized Bolt Bundle Kit
Order one Bolt, with one extension ring an 18500 batt with a Kick, with two extension rings an 18650 with a kick.
Order one Bolt, with one extension ring an 18500 batt with a Kick, with two extension rings an 18650 with a kick.
does it work well? cost?
cool - cost of the bolt? and kick sleeve?
does it take a kick with an 18650? if so, how does it work? well? poor?
cost?
not even with the Kick adapter?
Its a great mod built like a tank about a 150 new but less tan a 100 in the classys. It works right out of the box Comes with the kick tube from the get go. Floating center pin and EA sells spare parts but honestly youed have to try to break it. Etusivu | electricangel
Ok $43 bolt with extender..
Anodized Bolt Bundle Kit
I have 510/ego adapters, so that's ok...
Looked up kick sleeve, and it's the extender, so that is definitely in the price range.
Anodized Bolt Bundle Kit
I have 510/ego adapters, so that's ok...
Looked up kick sleeve, and it's the extender, so that is definitely in the price range.
It's a fair question. IDK why "true mech" can't have wiring...as long as the wire is spec'ed correctly.
Even 220 volts to your house comes through long wires from the street to you. We're talking about 3.7 volts here and a few amps. Think of how many 100 watt light bulbs you run at home at once.
The mech people hate wires for some reason. However if it's heavy gauge wire it shouldn't be a problem and shouldn't add much if any resistance over the direct connection "pin" button (which is basically a solid "wire" if you think about it). Wire would be required to add a side button. Or at least some conductor...I suppose if somebody used a flat piece of metal, people would be fooled and claim it "has no wires". lol.
But the real issue with any mech...is "how can I replace the button contacts?". The contacts of a mech wear out due to sparking when the button is pressed. All mechanical switches..all of them...wear due to "button bounce"...micro arcing in 1000th's of a second. If you had an oscilloscope image of the circuit when the button is pressed you'd see a bunch of spikes as the button makes contact. These micro-arcs pit the metal and wear the contact. Easy to replace screws are desirable in a mech because they can be sanded or replaced. THAT is why people don't like wires I guess...because wires are soldered in.
The non-mech mods don't run much current through the buttons...so they last a lot longer and they can use those itty bitty buttons. The button just activates a "bigger" circuit. But for a mech, ALL the current goes through the button to the atomizer connector. It causes the buttons to fail earlier.
So the question I have for bolt users is....how do you replace the button? Is it a button that can be swapped without desoldering anything? Did they use slip-on connectors for the wire?
Even 220 volts to your house comes through long wires from the street to you. We're talking about 3.7 volts here and a few amps. Think of how many 100 watt light bulbs you run at home at once.
The mech people hate wires for some reason. However if it's heavy gauge wire it shouldn't be a problem and shouldn't add much if any resistance over the direct connection "pin" button (which is basically a solid "wire" if you think about it). Wire would be required to add a side button. Or at least some conductor...I suppose if somebody used a flat piece of metal, people would be fooled and claim it "has no wires". lol.
But the real issue with any mech...is "how can I replace the button contacts?". The contacts of a mech wear out due to sparking when the button is pressed. All mechanical switches..all of them...wear due to "button bounce"...micro arcing in 1000th's of a second. If you had an oscilloscope image of the circuit when the button is pressed you'd see a bunch of spikes as the button makes contact. These micro-arcs pit the metal and wear the contact. Easy to replace screws are desirable in a mech because they can be sanded or replaced. THAT is why people don't like wires I guess...because wires are soldered in.
The non-mech mods don't run much current through the buttons...so they last a lot longer and they can use those itty bitty buttons. The button just activates a "bigger" circuit. But for a mech, ALL the current goes through the button to the atomizer connector. It causes the buttons to fail earlier.
So the question I have for bolt users is....how do you replace the button? Is it a button that can be swapped without desoldering anything? Did they use slip-on connectors for the wire?
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Thin wires from most Chinese manufacturers and a number of broken solder joints led me to use mechanicals. If more wired mods were built like the Silver Bullet, the distinction within mechanicals wouldn't be an issue.
MV also sells this, just as an FYI. Haven't used it.
Side button. Lockable too. With other features like air-flow adjustment.
L-Rider Corolla 2.0
But check the reviews for a bunch of "thin wire" complaints....
Sad. Maybe they'll fix it.
Side button. Lockable too. With other features like air-flow adjustment.
L-Rider Corolla 2.0
But check the reviews for a bunch of "thin wire" complaints....
Sad. Maybe they'll fix it.
Kudos to that guy making the video.
I hate the plastic on those buttons too. I've wrecked my share before I got wise and used a heat sink.
Couple of notes if you watch and follow that video. No disrespect to the guy intended he did a great job. I'd add a couple of
comments because you know me:
1) Get a heat sink clip or use an alligator clip (heat sink clip is better because it's flat and makes better contact.) when soldering the button contacts. This will help draw heat away from the plastic. Also lock it in a vise or helping hands...this allows you to keep your hands free for what follows.
2) It's OK to tin the soldering iron tip. I wipe it on a wet sponge between joints and re-tin. However, you never apply solder to a joint using the iron. You end up with a "cold joint" easily that way...and it doesn't conduct well. I totally hear him when he's talking about being quick and not overheating the button contact. But if you don't get that metal hot enough, it's a cold joint. Catch-22. Hence heat sink. You heat the part, not the solder. The solder needs to flow from the spool (not the iron) onto the wire and the contact. THAT will give you a solid well-conducting joint.
So.. with the button in a vise/holder, put the wire through the hole, tin the tip of the iron slightly if you want..the solder makes it conduct heat better. Put the heat sink clip on the joint if you can. Now hold the soldering iron in one hand, and the solder in the other. Heat both the wire and the contact with the tip of the iron, touch the solder to it and when the parts are hot enough it will "flow" onto the metal. Remove the iron.
3) I'd use some shrink-wrap tube on the wire after soldering the center pin on the atty connector. This will help avoid shorts on the center pin. Push it down so that it surrounds the wire and center pin...acting as an insulator between the shell and center pin. Shrink it with the soldering iron's heat.
4) Get two buttons...they're small.
If you mess one up, you'll at least have another to work with.
Just some tips/thoughts. I too have had fun with these buttons while making mods. Use rosin core or lead free solder.
Even the "good" buttons will fail over time...see my previous post.
I hate the plastic on those buttons too. I've wrecked my share before I got wise and used a heat sink.
Couple of notes if you watch and follow that video. No disrespect to the guy intended he did a great job. I'd add a couple of
comments because you know me:1) Get a heat sink clip or use an alligator clip (heat sink clip is better because it's flat and makes better contact.) when soldering the button contacts. This will help draw heat away from the plastic. Also lock it in a vise or helping hands...this allows you to keep your hands free for what follows.
2) It's OK to tin the soldering iron tip. I wipe it on a wet sponge between joints and re-tin. However, you never apply solder to a joint using the iron. You end up with a "cold joint" easily that way...and it doesn't conduct well. I totally hear him when he's talking about being quick and not overheating the button contact. But if you don't get that metal hot enough, it's a cold joint. Catch-22. Hence heat sink. You heat the part, not the solder. The solder needs to flow from the spool (not the iron) onto the wire and the contact. THAT will give you a solid well-conducting joint.
So.. with the button in a vise/holder, put the wire through the hole, tin the tip of the iron slightly if you want..the solder makes it conduct heat better. Put the heat sink clip on the joint if you can. Now hold the soldering iron in one hand, and the solder in the other. Heat both the wire and the contact with the tip of the iron, touch the solder to it and when the parts are hot enough it will "flow" onto the metal. Remove the iron.
3) I'd use some shrink-wrap tube on the wire after soldering the center pin on the atty connector. This will help avoid shorts on the center pin. Push it down so that it surrounds the wire and center pin...acting as an insulator between the shell and center pin. Shrink it with the soldering iron's heat.
4) Get two buttons...they're small.
If you mess one up, you'll at least have another to work with.Just some tips/thoughts. I too have had fun with these buttons while making mods. Use rosin core or lead free solder.
Even the "good" buttons will fail over time...see my previous post.
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Good post Atty .
Just a note to add , better using brass wool to clean the tip .
With a damp sponge the thermal shock can crack the plating .
It is more a necessity if using lead free solder , but I use brass wool for all solders .
Just a note to add , better using brass wool to clean the tip .
With a damp sponge the thermal shock can crack the plating .
It is more a necessity if using lead free solder , but I use brass wool for all solders .
Just get a Silver Bullet .......... problem solved!
However, my right hand looks like it went through a meat grinder after so many surgeries for arthritis. So I know all to well what the OP is talking about.
The easiest mechanical to use is a top button for me (Reo). When I first looked at them I thought no way, but after I tried one I found that using my index finger to push the button was natural, and didn't hurt because I wasn't having to press or squeeze with my thumb.
note to any aspiring mechanics .......... your hand is not a hammer
However, my right hand looks like it went through a meat grinder after so many surgeries for arthritis. So I know all to well what the OP is talking about.
The easiest mechanical to use is a top button for me (Reo). When I first looked at them I thought no way, but after I tried one I found that using my index finger to push the button was natural, and didn't hurt because I wasn't having to press or squeeze with my thumb.
note to any aspiring mechanics .......... your hand is not a hammer
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do you know if it will take the 18650 with a kick?
yep... You understand exactly. I'm not disfigured or anything, just weak
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