Sig 20 short

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Just got a brand new Sig 20 from ExhaleVapors. Put a battery in and smelled something funny, and i could see orange light coming out the button assembly...And with no atomizer. So being crazy (bad idea i know) I put an atomizer on, and screwed it together again, its firing the atomizer AND glowing red inside the button area! Ok so is this common for them to come with something shorted in there? Should i just try to pull it apart or return it, i figured id have to mod it to get it working well anyways, so it could just be part of the learning process...

Hrmmm, any suggestions or advice welcome! I did put in a ticket with EV they may just swap it out but i figured if its an easy fix why bother going through that ordeal...

 

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Ugh i found a repair walk through online, i cant get this top piece to unscrew with a penny at all, why must i be so damned skinny

 

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Is this what this things supposed to look like inside? That spring is shorting out, and it glows bright red, even with no atomizer




Ok i guess this is right, i pulled out the battery pin with spring, straigntened the spring out. Put it together. Ok its not firing on its own, but now its not firing the atomizer, it just shorts when i press the button, and the battery gets really hot. Ugh im scared of these batteries!!!

 

[crxess]

Simple answer = NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Even with a shorted switch - as you describe - Without an atomizer of some type attached, there should be NO POWER passing.

Basicly - Closing the switch only acts to lengthen the Battery + post to the top of the Pin that will eventually contact the Atty.
From this point a final connection(atty) closing the circuit must be made to PASS POWER.

Make sense?

Now, assuming only placing a Battery into the #20 with No atty attached and assuming a stuck switch(Spring wonky) There still has to be a point of unintended contact above the spring to the main body for POWER PASSAGE to occur.

First suggestion - Try to get it exchanged. Heat has probably already done damage you will not be able to easily correct. i.e. melting Delrin.

Top 510 threading - I use the back edge of a butter knife.

 

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Oh hey a reply, thank you! I think youre right that something bigger is off here and shorting the whole thing out, and maybe melted delrin (I did smell something nasty as soon as i put the battery in) Im generally pretty savvy with electronics, even have 4 years of trade schooling + 4 years computer schooling which also made me take basic electronics courses. Of course im generally AWFUL at figuring mechanical things out lol. However this was what i was guessing, just wanted to ask the pros and make sure i wasnt being dumb somehow

"Now, assuming only placing a Battery into the #20 with No atty attached and assuming a stuck switch(Spring wonky) There still has to be a point of unintended contact above the spring to the main body for POWER PASSAGE to occur."




Think im going to just return this one and get a Natural, i have a Sig 19 and i love the thing. I wanted a side button mech =( Really not a fan of how the contact is made in this thing, seems prone to failure

 

[crxess]

They do have a less than stellar switch design, however they do work surprisingly well with a good bottom spring. I have (2) first run and both needed bottom spring replacement. Beyond that and having to sand all the contact points for good conduction, I am very happy with performance.
Would read up on the Natural - seem many have issues with it's switch also.

 

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They do have a less than stellar switch design, however they do work surprisingly well with a good bottom spring. I have (2) first run and both needed bottom spring replacement. Beyond that and having to sand all the contact points for good conduction, I am very happy with performance.
Would read up on the Natural - seem many have issues with it's switch also.

So really its a wash which one i choose, i cant imagine EV wont swap this out with another.


I literally today got 2 mechs, a 19 and a 20. The 19 seems to work great. The 20 not so much obviously. If i get a new one to swap the spring, is an Evic spring better (i have an extra bottom cap with spring) or should i look further? I actually already lightly sanded the 19s contacts and im getting a great vape with a Protank at 1.8ohm

 

[lamarrk]

I have two #20s and both have the same problem. IMHO, the #20 has a junk switch. Unfortunately, the vendor I bought them from has failed to answer any of my attempts to contact them. I'm stuck with this crap.

 

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I have two #20s and both have the same problem. IMHO, the #20 has a junk switch. Unfortunately, the vendor I bought them from has failed to answer any of my attempts to contact them. I'm stuck with this crap.

That really sucks. EV already authorized the return and replacement. Im hoping i can be lucky like crx and replace the spring and sand the contacts and have it work well. I dont think the switch safety is really pocket friendly on the 20, so im glad i got the 19 as it seems pocket friendly. I got some bonuses coming hopefully ill be able to sneak a higher end mod by the wife, i just figured some cheap mods would be nice to carry around and I wouldnt be concerned if it dropped/scuffed/etc since for 25 bucks i can just get another

 

[crxess]

If the one you receive has the Gold color spring, your in good shape. If not, check Alt.smoke for a good replacement. There are a few other places that also carry nice hot springs.

Take a look through the Sigelei thread. some good photos on tear down and some modifications others have done.
Only thing I may do is rework one of mine to get a really clean fit for the RSST tank.