Sigelei 150 w/Mutation V3 Coil issues

[ph0kused]

Um, what? There's a fair bit wrong with your post, but I'll address primarily this.

6.6V to a .1 ohm coil is 66A or 435W. So... what?

Even at .3 that's 22A and 145W. While not impossible, that'd be an unavoidably hot vape.

I will reply back to this with a few pictures next to a clock so you can see how each time I push down a button in 1 minute how the atomizer jumps all over the place. Here's an example of 63 watts and over 5 volts to kind of disprove what you're saying. I know what you're saying... and I agree. These readings are far from accurate. But I can assure you, it happens - and not just to me. A guy at my vape shop had a Sigelei 150w and a Herkeles RTA and he had 2 coils @ .2ohms and was set to 65 watts @ 6.2v.. that was the first time I saw something like that... and I asked the guy... "Isn't it unsafe to be vaping above 4.2volts?" He just said the Sigelei sometimes will double the volts per battery... Or at least that's his theory, becuase I took a drag off his Herkeles @ 6.2v and it was nice! It wasn't hot at all, mild to warm temperature I'd say.

Anyway...

Anyone else having issues like this?

 

[jon mayeux]

I will reply back to this with a few pictures next to a clock so you can see how each time I push down a button in 1 minute how the atomizer jumps all over the place. Here's an example of 63 watts and over 5 volts to kind of disprove what you're saying. I know what you're saying... and I agree. These readings are far from accurate. But I can assure you, it happens - and not just to me. A guy at my vape shop had a Sigelei 150w and a Herkeles RTA and he had 2 coils @ .2ohms and was set to 65 watts @ 6.2v.. that was the first time I saw something like that... and I asked the guy... "Isn't it unsafe to be vaping above 4.2volts?" He just said the Sigelei sometimes will double the volts per battery... Or at least that's his theory, becuase I took a drag off his Herkeles @ 6.2v and it was nice! It wasn't hot at all, mild to warm temperature I'd say.

Anyway...

Anyone else having issues like this?

I just purchased above combo and I haven't had any issues yet. First build was 24ga 5 wraps dual coil came in at 0.21 ohms 2.5 Id. Wanted to test the limits of the thing so I made a dual parallel coil 24 g 6 wraps 2.6 I'd came in at 0.15 ohms and my voltage has never doubled.

 

[ph0kused]

I think I may have found the culprit - maybe someone can try this (if they have the materials).

I've always enjoyed using Gplat wire... Yea it is expensive, but I really liked how soft it is... it is a dream to work with and build with - Also, the wire seemed to last longer than traditional Kanthal - Don't get me wrong I still use Kanthal as well, but maybe once per month I'd do a 26g G-Plat .15ohm build in my Mutation X - and I may have found the problem ... the problem causing my voltage to jump to insane, non-comprehensible levels...

I recently rebuilt my Mutation X V3 and V4's with normal 24 gauge Kanthal wire - I took out my 26g G-Plat build. The moment I put the stiffer 24 gauge Kanthal in, the problem was gone!

I think it has something to do with the fact that G-Plat is like the "feather pillow" of resistance wire... the stuff is like putty. Because the G-Plat is so soft, it was causing the connection screws on my Atty to move around, like the wire going trhough the positive post was smushed - making the voltage jump. I put in my new 24g build using normal Kanthal, and the issue seems to be gone.

To try and rule out some issues - I'm going to try using 24 gauge G-Plat - rather than 26 gauge G-Plat, and see if it G-Plat gauge is the problem...Or maybe it is just G-Plat in general - too soft for the atomizer positive/negative post screws... they can't make a good connection... I don't know, to me it sort of makes sense... the wire's so soft, it may wiggle around in there... who knows.

 

[jon mayeux]

I think I may have found the culprit - maybe someone can try this (if they have the materials).

I've always enjoyed using Gplat wire... Yea it is expensive, but I really liked how soft it is... it is a dream to work with and build with - Also, the wire seemed to last longer than traditional Kanthal - Don't get me wrong I still use Kanthal as well, but maybe once per month I'd do a 26g G-Plat .15ohm build in my Mutation X - and I may have found the problem ... the problem causing my voltage to jump to insane, non-comprehensible levels...

I recently rebuilt my Mutation X V3 and V4's with normal 24 gauge Kanthal wire - I took out my 26g G-Plat build. The moment I put the stiffer 24 gauge Kanthal in, the problem was gone!

I think it has something to do with the fact that G-Plat is like the "feather pillow" of resistance wire... the stuff is like putty. Because the G-Plat is so soft, it was causing the connection screws on my Atty to move around, like the wire going trhough the positive post was smushed - making the voltage jump. I put in my new 24g build using normal Kanthal, and the issue seems to be gone.

To try and rule out some issues - I'm going to try using 24 gauge G-Plat - rather than 26 gauge G-Plat, and see if it G-Plat gauge is the problem...Or maybe it is just G-Plat in general - too soft for the atomizer positive/negative post screws... they can't make a good connection... I don't know, to me it sort of makes sense... the wire's so soft, it may wiggle around in there... who knows.

Nice post very informative