Guess we'll have to wait and find out. I ordered one early April from vaportekusa I wonder when we'll get it.
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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Hmmm... I can hardly wait to get mine! Where did you find that copper spring? Someone said altsmoke but I've been unable to locate one on their site.
Ok so, I got a replacement metal switch for my #13.. But I noticed this with the locking ring. It just screws all the way off! Is there anyway to modify the switch to alleviate this problem?
Ok so, I got a replacement metal switch for my #13.. But I noticed this with the locking ring. It just screws all the way off! Is there anyway to modify the switch to alleviate this problem?
you can use one or two #4 flat washers, shaved carto plug, paper clip, etc. to shorten the firing pin throw, on the inside. There's pics in this thread on a few pages.
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Ok, but can you even take the switch assembly apart? It looks like the firing pin top is pressed fit on or something.
It's not necessary to disassemble, and I wouldn't recommend it, unless someone knows an easy way. I've seen a few break their button.
You can take the pin apart, my #8 switch wasn't screwed on tight. But some of the pins are held together pretty well. I used a slotted M4 washer to shorten throw. Others have used other things as Porksmuggler notes.
The button on my #8 was very tight, probably assembled with some loctight or similar substance. A little heat to the button and a pair of needle nose pliers on both the firing pin end and one on the button and it twisted right off... the button itself is actually part of a threaded female sleeve, like the opposite of a bolt. I don't know for sure about the #13 but it wouldn't surprise me if it was the same construction... it is really the only method that makes sense as far as keeping the button ON and for ease of assembling the switch at the factory. Be CAREFUL not to loose the tiny spring that is inside the switch housing though!!!
How would I get a washer in between the threading and the bottom top? That's what I'm saying, I don't see how that could be done without disassembling the firing pin somehow
i JUST got a #8, and i fried the spring. it's long enough to fire an AW IMR 18350 in shorty mode but it "shrunk" so my MNKE 18650 won't make contact. i went to Home Depot and Radio Shack and couldn't find any springs that would fit inside the little "cup". i stretched the spring out a little bit but i REALLY want a replacement spring. does anyone know the dimensions of the original spring? or any ways to fix it with a brass screw?
No, between the end of the firing pin on the *inside* of the tube. Washers like I used will require the button to come off for full disassembly.
This shortens the button's "throw" and also keeps the lock from spinning all the way off as a fringe benefit.
Don't know about a replacement spring. I've personally got hopes that some US vendor will be allowed by Sigelei to carry an inventory of spare parts for these but so far no joy.
This is my spring/brass screw mod to my #8:
And an alternative... the paperclip washer method 
I did this without removing the switch assembly
I did this without removing the switch assembly
I wish I could tell you! I went to my local hardware store with a vague image in my mind of what I was looking for. I do this all the time and habitually end up walking out with two or three of several different sizes of everything... all unmarked, in the same bag. Sorry! Take your #8 with you when you go shopping... the clerks might look at you a little funny at first but I've already converted two of them away from the stinkies
If you fried the spring, something is wrong, meter for a short, etc. Re-stretching a hot spring is a bad idea. They ship the mods with springs for safety. If you're sure you don't have a bad battery, the screws are an option, #8 or #6. I wouldn't recommend it without a PPTC or 2 cents, especially since you've already had an issue.
Hopefully they let some US vendors carry spare parts for these mechs...after seeing thier mech list that would be alot of parts..lol
If anyone has replaced the switch on the 13a with a locking washer instead of the plastic press-fit insert please post info
Thanks!!
If anyone has replaced the switch on the 13a with a locking washer instead of the plastic press-fit insert please post info
Thanks!!
Thanks for the info! I actually looked back a good few pages and saw this, but there was no specific explanation of how they got the washer on there? Does the bottom portion of the firing pin come off somehow so I can then put a washer on, THEN theoretically put the bottom of the firing pin back on?
Yes, as I said maybe a page back that whole switch assembly MUST come apart just so they have a way to assemble it in the first place, right? I don't own any model other than the #8 but I can't imagine the others must be much different. A bit of heat to the button top, then unscrew the button from the firing pin using a pair of needle nose pliers. Do NOT loose the tiny spring that is inside the switch assembly. YMMV and I won't take responsibility for anyone messing up their switch beyond repair... but that's how I did mine!
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