Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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You mean in the switch or the 510 connection? The brass pin in the 510 connection can be swapped with a slightly larger brass (or copper) one for pennies...
I just got a new spring in for my #8, which I now consider "completed." I sanded the top screw on both sides down to brass, sanded the bottom barrel and switch contact bit. The last step was yanking out the crap spring from Sig and putting in this one:
Silver-Coated Beryllium Copper Compression Spring .228" OD x .036" Wire Size x 0.860" Free Length | AmazonSupply.com
(free shipping if you have amazon prime)
It's the same OD as the stock spring, but the wire gauge is 2x as thick, (and of course, it's beryllium copper, so it actually CONDUCTS). The stock spring is shorter, (around 0.6" I think), so I snipped a bit off of this one. I had to twist one side of it "open" a bit, just like the stock spring, so it would fit snugly into the spring well.
Another option is probably Silver-Coated Beryllium Copper Compression Spring .240" OD x .018" Wire Size x 0.670" Free Length | AmazonSupply.com . It's a bit larger OD, so might not need "opening up" to fit snugly, but also might not fit at all....and the wire gauge is about the same as the stock spring.
The spring made a decent improvement....this thing purrs now.
Silver-Coated Beryllium Copper Compression Spring .228" OD x .036" Wire Size x 0.860" Free Length | AmazonSupply.com
(free shipping if you have amazon prime)
It's the same OD as the stock spring, but the wire gauge is 2x as thick, (and of course, it's beryllium copper, so it actually CONDUCTS). The stock spring is shorter, (around 0.6" I think), so I snipped a bit off of this one. I had to twist one side of it "open" a bit, just like the stock spring, so it would fit snugly into the spring well.
Another option is probably Silver-Coated Beryllium Copper Compression Spring .240" OD x .018" Wire Size x 0.670" Free Length | AmazonSupply.com . It's a bit larger OD, so might not need "opening up" to fit snugly, but also might not fit at all....and the wire gauge is about the same as the stock spring.
The spring made a decent improvement....this thing purrs now.
I think someone re-posted the #8's switch and bottom spring fixes ~10-15 pages back.
Go to page 132 post 1318, there's a pic tthere to give you an idea of what you need to do to eliminate the bottom spring in your #8... This thread got big pretty fast, it was a lot further back than I thought, lol.
I got my #8 in today and it works nice right out of the box, it looks nice too. I twisted up a 28ga ~1.0 ohm coil for the Phoenix RDA and it hits real nice. It's gonna be hard to beat this rig or $28 ($24 Sig#8 + $4 Phoenix). After the holiday weekend I may tear it down and do the fixes.
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You're better off with the spring you got. Like you said, it's 2x thicker meaning much less internal resistance in the coil than the 2nd spring you listed... I've had these springs sitting in my cart for a few weeks now, 10 for $11.
Silver-Coated Beryllium Copper Compression Spring .345" OD x .045" Wire Size x 1.125" Free Length (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Lol, I've had those springs in my cart for a few weeks too but they're $19. The 10 for $11 ones have thicker guage wire, are longer and can probably be trimmed, etc. to fit different applications.
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yeah since he said the .228 was a little small, I'm wondering if the .345 would be a better OD. Guess I could just measure the cup on the #8...
It fits but the connection is way too short to touch the atty. Looks pretty nice though.
The I.D. of the cup is ~1/4" (~.250"), eye-balling it with a ruler. With a little work you could make the .345" spring fit but I think the best option is to eliminate the spring like the other guys are doing or even just bypass the spring (circuit-wise).
I may try both ways and experiment with bypassing the bottom spring, I have some silver solder and 16awg silver plated OFC teflon shield wire I use for building speaker XO's. I just like the idea of having a spring in there to avoid any chance of squashing a battery if you change the 510 connector's pin length for different atties.
The top cap, GP Telescopic Centre Post version 2.1, does not matter now, their was one on ukv for £5 inc post last night http://www.vapourart.com/en/product/gp-telescopic-centre-post-version-21
It fits but the connection is way too short to touch the atty. Looks pretty nice though.
Thank you bud
Mine is .238" ID after sanding the chrome out of the cup.
I was able to find some .25" OD brass rod, hoping to avoid the whole screw set-up, but I'm still on the fence. I like the convenience of the spring, but it's really not protecting the battery anyway. Probably will work on fitting the brass rod in the cup, cutting it correctly, and dropping in a safety fuse.
I've thought that too but as long as you are looking at rod stock consider aluminum and copper as well. Both are much more conductive than brass.
Not sure that the conductivity offsets the rate of tarnish...
That and there's a limit to the needed conductivity (the resistivity of all three materials is very low).
Same reasons I haven't sanded the contacts yet, I can't tell that they're chromed and not nickel plated, which would not be worth removing.
The main drop is the spring, by a large margin.
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