Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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WinchellNomNom

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Finished modding the internal contacts and switch. All brass contacts now.

Removing the magnets on both ends make 18350s un usable without further modification.

20130427_142949_zpse59f2b9d.jpg
 
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WinchellNomNom

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Looks nice! Now just to be clear... are those "mods" that you have done just using the OEM #19 parts or did you swap other stuff around too?

All #19 parts except for an insulator from a 13. Removing the magnet from the neg post is... lets just say I drilled the magnet out and lost 3 bits that worked fine with steel.
 

WinchellNomNom

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So after spending the majority of the day with my 19, I had to make a few more changes to the switch.

If you press the button straight in and make contact with the battery, it doesnt actually complete the circuit. You have to press the button on the edges so that the button touches the sides of the lock ring and completes the circuit. This is pretty annoying as you will end up with a high percentage of misfires. This happens with or with out the magnet in place, but happens more often with the magnet since it adds height to the negative post. If the switch was designed correctly, when pressed the post would make contact with the battery and stainless ledge inside the switch without ever needing to scrape the sides of the switch interior wall.

One way to correct this issue is to screw the lock ring to adjust the throw of the switch till the negative post rises and makes contact with the battery and the lock ring. The flaw in this fix is that the majority of the time when pressing the button, you also have a chance of spinning the lock ring. Not a very solid fix.

What I did to correct this, I used a copper spring that I shaped to make contact with the button and the interior wall of the lock ring and switch housing. Since the copper spring is acting as a midpoint between two stainless surfaces there is no drop in conductivity. Perhaps a small gain. I havent had a misfire again. Plus replacing the original spring gives a softer firing button. I prefer this over the stiff matress spring I replaced. This is my new beater mod. Lets hope the #20 is 50 times better out of the box.

20130427_231439_zpsf649b9af.jpg
 
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Niko49

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So after spending the majority of the day with my 19, I had to make a few more changes to the switch.

If you press the button straight in and make contact with the battery, it doesnt actually complete the circuit. You have to press the button on the edges so that the button touches the sides of the lock ring and completes the circuit. This is pretty annoying as you will end up with a high percentage of misfires. This happens with or with out the magnet in place, but happens more often with the magnet since it adds height to the negative post. If the switch was designed correctly, when pressed the post would make contact with the battery and stainless ledge inside the switch without ever needing to scrape the sides of the switch interior wall.

One way to correct this issue is to screw the lock ring to adjust the throw of the switch till the negative post rises and makes contact with the battery and the lock ring. The flaw in this fix is that the majority of the time when pressing the button, you also have a chance of spinning the lock ring. Not a very solid fix.

What I did to correct this, I used a copper spring that I shaped to make contact with the button and the interior wall of the lock ring and switch housing. Since the copper spring is acting as a midpoint between two stainless surfaces there is no drop in conductivity. Perhaps a small gain. I havent had a misfire again. Plus replacing the original spring gives a softer firing button. I prefer this over the stiff matress spring I replaced. This is my new beater mod. Lets hope the #20 is 50 times better out of the box.

20130427_231439_zpsf649b9af.jpg

I wonder if this is the issue Sigelei is fixing that delayed everyone elses #19
 

clancy0below

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I dont need another project right now. If its doesnt read something close to normal for voltage drop, then straight to the classies it will go. The number 8 was very very manageable to retrieve the lost volts, Short of having a more conductive tube(brass, alum, silver-haha). But that would be like a .1 or .2 drop.
 

Leroy Brown

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I dont need another project right now. If its doesnt read something close to normal for voltage drop, then straight to the classies it will go. The number 8 was very very manageable to retrieve the lost volts, Short of having a more conductive tube(brass, alum, silver-haha). But that would be like a .1 or .2 drop.

How exactly does one check voltage drop? What do you need and what is considered normal for voltage drop? I looked for an answer elsewhere but didn't find exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

Sent from my vapor using Tapatalk 2
 

clancy0below

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How exactly does one check voltage drop? What do you need and what is considered normal for voltage drop? I looked for an answer elsewhere but didn't find exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

Sent from my vapor using Tapatalk 2

I use a multi meter and a modded carto/510 atty connector. The point is to measure the current between the batt and atty. So initially, I test the device with a multimeter with out and atty and make sure it reads what the raw battery would read. Then measure the current between the atty and batt. .3 is the norm .5 is horrible

Or just meter out the top of a genny atty to read what your entire volt drop is.

igetcha will help ya out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpTXGvCCmKE
 
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forg1vn

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How exactly does one check voltage drop? What do you need and what is considered normal for voltage drop? I looked for an answer elsewhere but didn't find exactly what I was looking for. Thanks!

Sent from my vapor using Tapatalk 2

Well you can do some resistance measuring and use ohms law or you can buy an inline meter from one of the venders for about 15-20$ or just jury rig some wires so that you can take available voltage reading between the mod and atty while under load.
 

forg1vn

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I use a multi meter and a modded carto/510 atty connector. The point is to measure the current between the batt and atty. So initially, I test the device with a multimeter with out and atty and make sure it reads what the raw battery would read. Then measure the current between the atty and batt. .3 is the norm .5 is horrible

Or just meter out the top of a genny atty to read what your entire volt drop is.

igetcha will help ya out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpTXGvCCmKE

Why would you measure current for, that's extra work.
 
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