Just habit mainly, with some of my at home riggins.... you wanna check it. lol
but your right. really unnecessary if the thing is put together right
but your right. really unnecessary if the thing is put together right
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
- Thread starter pillowking
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
If ur Mech.mod is vaping well - u don't need to bother measuring those volt/amps, or performing any tweaks/DIY.
HOW TO KNOW?
The usual 'tell' would be a drop in vape quality while using the same delivery system (carto-tank, wick-tank or RBA). The drop would be in the 'warmth' of the inhale and VTF*. Another would be 'warm' Firing Switch or Bottom Cap. The Top Cap also could get warm - but it'd most likely go unnoticed b'coz we usually don't touch that.
WHAT TO DO?
As a practice, if we regularly 'observe' the contact points for soot built-up (oxidization/carbonization) and clean them off, we would've done whatever is needed. And it'd continue to vape well. Those contact points would be - the 510 end stub which sits on the +ve end of the battery, the firing pin which touches the bottom post, the bottom post spring and the bottom post itself.
HOW TO CLEAN?
Cleaning that soot off is pretty simple & easy. A deliberate rub of the contact point/s with "emery paper" works. Topped it up with some alcohol or gasoline drops and a final nice wiping-off would make them brand new. We could safely use our 'after-shave lotion' or 'nail-polish remover' as a cleaning liquid. I use after-shave, it smells good!
STANDARD PRECAUTION:
As a standard practice, we should 'lock' our Firing Switch before replacing the batteries, tanks or dismantling the tubes, heads etc. This negates chances of the battery firing without a load. Which'd be disastrous &/or reduces the battery life definitely.
BOTTOMLINE:
I've been using mine (the Sig. #8) for a while, and it yet didn't have any issues. No soot built-up anywhere (I check for that frequently), no warming-up of any part, no reduction in vape quality. Till date my device vapes exactly the same as it did right out of the box. The Sigeleis r actually very well made.
________________________________________________
*VTF = Vapor, Throat-hit, Flavor
Strangely my #8 showed up in the mailbox today. So I guess it got delivered to a neighbors yesterday. Also, explains why the mailman never showed up to get my outgoing stuff yesterday.
As for the mod, I can't really compare it to an EA or a GGTS as that would be unfair. For what it is, it works fine. I probably wouldn't use an RBA on it without modding but it'll do fine for a throw a protank on it and toss it in my pocket sort of deal. Threads are pretty nice, button is a bit mushy but it does it's job. Probably replace a few things in it at some point but pretty nice for $30. Looks pretty nice too.
As for the mod, I can't really compare it to an EA or a GGTS as that would be unfair. For what it is, it works fine. I probably wouldn't use an RBA on it without modding but it'll do fine for a throw a protank on it and toss it in my pocket sort of deal. Threads are pretty nice, button is a bit mushy but it does it's job. Probably replace a few things in it at some point but pretty nice for $30. Looks pretty nice too.
A question for the people who shortened the button throw on their #8s. How did you get the locking washers in there? It seems that the button assembly is in there with some tread lock or hot glue. The switch is ok but seems like it would be much better if it had a shorter throw.
I want to shorten the throw on my #8 too. I actually took the button head in one set of pliers and the other end of the pin in a second set of pliers and gave it some muscle. I quit because I was reasonably sure I would just twist the pin in half! My button is NOT coming off of there without a fight. Is there another way to shorten the throw *without* removing the button head?
Does anyone here know if the #19 can be sanded at the end caps to reveal a brass finish....
Couldn't disagree more. Voltage drop is a measure of efficiency. Why waste energy that could be better utilized as a more power to the coil or as longer battery life between charges. Bottom line is that if you have excessive voltage drop then there is something wrong.
My 2 #8's were NOT well made. I assume that we have different standards for craftsmanship, but out of the box with a 0.5-0.8V volt loss is not well made or well designed. With very simple and easy modifications they have less than .2V loss with .6Ω coils...better than mods that sell for 10X the price.
The button head does need to come off in order to put the washers on. If yours has been thread locked, you could cut a short section out of the washer to make it a "C". Then slide it over the button post and crimp it on with pliers.
Last edited:
Great advice here. I went and got the smallest brass locking washer my hardware store carried, I believe it was a #4. Then I clipped it with the snips on my needle nose pliers to make the "C", slipped it on on crimped it. Button throw is shorter, feels smoother, and I can use the locking ring without it coming unthreaded. Thanks for the tip.
I think he said tomorrow, but I'm not sure. I saw him earlier today chatting on Quest, I asked him about the 8's.
I picked up M4 locking washers at Home Depot, they're pre-cut. It was a b---- getting it back straight again, but it decreases the throw to a reasonable distance and prevents the locking nut from unscrewing off the threads.
I disagree as well. Measure it and know what the mod is doing, and in many cases it's easy to improve. "Vaping well" is subjective, and if efficiency from battery to coil can be improved, I'm very interested -- and it isn't because the contacts are dirty.
Are you seriously suggesting people use *gasoline* to clean contacts? Every item you mention is potentially flammable and should be used with caution, but the closest gasoline is coming to my vaping gear is when I'm actually pumping it. After shave lotion is in most cases full of lubricants that I wouldn't want in my mod, as well.
While I suppose it's a good idea to lock the switch (I never do), "battery firing without a load" is the same as it sitting on a table. It's not "disastrous" and doesn't reduce battery life. Are you thinking of a hard short? Because that's not good for batteries, but firing it without an atty attached has zero effect on a battery in any mod that is assembled properly. Insulation in the mod prevents a short or it'd be hard-shorting as soon as you installed a battery.
Please be careful giving advice like this. New vapers take these tips and they become gospel to some people, and then we have a guy with a gasoline-soaked rag dabbing contacts in his bedroom.
While shopping for Noalox I found a product called Ox-Gard instead. The "helpful hardware man", who used to be an industrial electrician, said the Ox-Gard was better anyway because it's formulation actually promotes conduction. I dab all my threads with it, my brass screw mod, and even the end of the firing pin. No corrosion yet and it fires like a furnace!
To get them separated use some heat on the button and it will come right apart. But you will probably change the color of the button if you apply too much heat. This is how I get mine apart as I use loctite to keep the buttons from coming apart.
Sanded down the 510 connection flush. I left the slant in the top cap. Ive grown to like it. No plating so polishing took less than 5 minutes.
Thank you all for your advice and instruction on checking the voltage drop. I have a multimeter and will be trying it out tonight.
Sent from my vapor using Tapatalk 2
Sent from my vapor using Tapatalk 2
I disagree as well. Measure it and know what the mod is doing, and in many cases it's easy to improve. "Vaping well" is subjective, and if efficiency from battery to coil can be improved, I'm very interested -- and it isn't because the contacts are dirty.
Are you seriously suggesting people use *gasoline* to clean contacts? Every item you mention is potentially flammable and should be used with caution, but the closest gasoline is coming to my vaping gear is when I'm actually pumping it. After shave lotion is in most cases full of lubricants that I wouldn't want in my mod, as well.
While I suppose it's a good idea to lock the switch (I never do), "battery firing without a load" is the same as it sitting on a table. It's not "disastrous" and doesn't reduce battery life. Are you thinking of a hard short? Because that's not good for batteries, but firing it without an atty attached has zero effect on a battery in any mod that is assembled properly. Insulation in the mod prevents a short or it'd be hard-shorting as soon as you installed a battery.
Please be careful giving advice like this. New vapers take these tips and they become gospel to some people, and then we have a guy with a gasoline-soaked rag dabbing contacts in his bedroom.
I guess u've no idea how avionics r cleaned in the Military. I do. Had always done while in the Uniform... and my 'suggestion' earlier is a written SOP there.
_________________________________
SOP = Standard Operating Procedure
*and that gasoline & alcohol is an 'issued' cleaning material; alongwith the emery paper.
...Please be careful giving advice like this. New vapers take these tips and they become gospel to some people, and then we have a guy with a gasoline-soaked rag dabbing contacts in his bedroom.
And before censuring pls put some age, experience and a uniformed service behind u.
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
