Sigelei Mechnical Mods

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zippersnapper

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TroyDestroy

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I have a contact in China from when I was looking into opening a vape shop (I am not a vendor and do not plan on becoming one anymore) . This is a completely no name brand and is sold as a hybrid with a zen knock off genesis... Even has the zen logo on the cap lol.
Don't know if this is the same as the one vapor joe listed, as I was originally sent actual caravela pics too.
Review :
The genesis will gather dust , I won't even set it up to test because I have too many nice ones that I know work.
The mod... I'm kinda torn. It is bitter sweet to say the least. The quality is nowhere near my sigelei #8, sharp edges, horrible switch and nasty threads... but it looks f'in hot. The contacts can be sanded to reveal brass and I have been fiddling with the switch and made some progress.
I'm curious to see if the ones made available will be better or same as mine and the price point...
I can post more pics once I get in the office if y'all want.
 

astrocity

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So....I got my #8. Set up in 18350 mode. Doesn't fire. Sanded down positive contact, negative post, edge of the spring, positive contact in cap....still won't fire.

New 18650s fully charged. Won't fire. Tried multiple different devices....protank, vivi novas, 357....nothing works.

I can see the button contacting the negative post but I just cannot figure out WHY this won't fire, at all!

Meanwhile my "high voltage drop" gg/chi chi is firing like crazy with multiple cells and devices.

Let me know what you want to see pictures of. I'm about to throw this thi g out of the window!

:confused::thumbdown::(:banghead:

Sent from my Note II via Tapatalk HD
 

zippersnapper

Moved On
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Mar 18, 2012
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I have a contact in China from when I was looking into opening a vape shop (I am not a vendor and do not plan on becoming one anymore) . This is a completely no name brand and is sold as a hybrid with a zen knock off genesis... Even has the zen logo on the cap lol.
Don't know if this is the same as the one vapor joe listed, as I was originally sent actual caravela pics too.
Review :
The genesis will gather dust , I won't even set it up to test because I have too many nice ones that I know work.
The mod... I'm kinda torn. It is bitter sweet to say the least. The quality is nowhere near my sigelei #8, sharp edges, horrible switch and nasty threads... but it looks f'in hot. The contacts can be sanded to reveal brass and I have been fiddling with the switch and made some progress.
I'm curious to see if the ones made available will be better or same as mine and the price point...
I can post more pics once I get in the office if y'all want.


That would be great. A full detail breakdown with photos. This one is gaining big interest...
 

michliu

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So....I got my #8. Set up in 18350 mode. Doesn't fire. Sanded down positive contact, negative post, edge of the spring, positive contact in cap....still won't fire.

New 18650s fully charged. Won't fire. Tried multiple different devices....protank, vivi novas, 357....nothing works.

I can see the button contacting the negative post but I just cannot figure out WHY this won't fire, at all!

Meanwhile my "high voltage drop" gg/chi chi is firing like crazy with multiple cells and devices.

Let me know what you want to see pictures of. I'm about to throw this thi g out of the window!

:confused::thumbdown::(:banghead:

Sent from my Note II via Tapatalk HD

First check connections. Does your atty screw down far enough to touch the pin. Screw in the 510 pin from the bottom of the top cap as far as it will go. If it still won't fire, check the switch. Unscrew the entire switch assembly and make sure the firing pin is screwed all the way into the push button part of the pin. This was a problem in a few #8's.
 

Mare1077

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So....I got my #8. Set up in 18350 mode. Doesn't fire. Sanded down positive contact, negative post, edge of the spring, positive contact in cap....still won't fire.

New 18650s fully charged. Won't fire. Tried multiple different devices....protank, vivi novas, 357....nothing works.

I can see the button contacting the negative post but I just cannot figure out WHY this won't fire, at all!

Meanwhile my "high voltage drop" gg/chi chi is firing like crazy with multiple cells and devices.

Let me know what you want to see pictures of. I'm about to throw this thi g out of the window!

:confused::thumbdown::(:banghead:

Sent from my Note II via Tapatalk HD

I have major issues with mine too. When I first got it, I would get about 5 our 6 misfires and then one fire and then nothing again. I could s it making contact as well. I have sanded down all the contacts and thought it fixed it because I got about5 or 6 consecutive fires...but then again misfires...

I got so irritated that I put it down and haven't bothered with it since. It is now collecting dust while I vape very happily away on my k100.

I wish you luck in getting it to work consistently. I know many rave about this little mod, but i can't get it to work for more than a minute or two at a time...

Sent from my SGH-T989 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2
 

TroyDestroy

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Lhartman89

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So....I got my #8. Set up in 18350 mode. Doesn't fire. Sanded down positive contact, negative post, edge of the spring, positive contact in cap....still won't fire.

New 18650s fully charged. Won't fire. Tried multiple different devices....protank, vivi novas, 357....nothing works.

I can see the button contacting the negative post but I just cannot figure out WHY this won't fire, at all!

Meanwhile my "high voltage drop" gg/chi chi is firing like crazy with multiple cells and devices.

Let me know what you want to see pictures of. I'm about to throw this thi g out of the window!

:confused::thumbdown::(:banghead:

Sent from my Note II via Tapatalk HD

Try holding down the button and twist the bottom cap and see if you can feel any kind of resistance. If you can't, then try loosening the button from the firing pin. Also, check with a multimeter to see if you are getting any voltage at the 510 connection.
 

astrocity

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I bought the cheap harbor freight multimeter last night, and when I switched it to the resistance setting (To initially check the ohms of a coil) - putting the probes together did NOT produce a 0 result as expected. I'm returning it after work tonight and will get another, that hopefully works.

I will search to see if I can find any information on properly using one for our application here on ECF - as I've not used one in the past except for checking the resistance of a pot on a laser like 10 years ago. If someone could give me the quick and dirty though, I'd appreciate it.

I have a feeling that non of my atomizers are reaching the pin in the 510 connection - I've removed it a couple of times - has anyone replaced this pin with something else to make it longer? I assume a person could use a brass screw of a longer length to provide some adjustability while still making safe, expected connection to the positive end of the battery.

Thanks for all of your help, I sincerely appreciate it!

Dan
 

Oktyabr

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I bought the cheap harbor freight multimeter last night, and when I switched it to the resistance setting (To initially check the ohms of a coil) - putting the probes together did NOT produce a 0 result as expected. I'm returning it after work tonight and will get another, that hopefully works.

I will search to see if I can find any information on properly using one for our application here on ECF - as I've not used one in the past except for checking the resistance of a pot on a laser like 10 years ago. If someone could give me the quick and dirty though, I'd appreciate it.

I have a feeling that non of my atomizers are reaching the pin in the 510 connection - I've removed it a couple of times - has anyone replaced this pin with something else to make it longer? I assume a person could use a brass screw of a longer length to provide some adjustability while still making safe, expected connection to the positive end of the battery.


Dan

Not all multi-meters will "zero" out with the probes touched together. Watch the number then subtract it from what ever reading you get on the actual device. Harbor Freight is a good place to get *cheap* stuff but in some cases, you get what you pay for.

The pin on my #8 is plenty long... long enough that it will actually push the positive pin IN on some of my atties, if I screw them down too tight. Take off the top cap and make sure that the pin is actually there, screwed all the way into the delrin fitting and that that fitting is, in turn, screwed all the way into the cap. This should not be the area of issue, with a good battery.
 

crxess

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I bought the cheap harbor freight multimeter last night, and when I switched it to the resistance setting (To initially check the ohms of a coil) - putting the probes together did NOT produce a 0 result as expected. I'm returning it after work tonight and will get another, that hopefully works.

I will search to see if I can find any information on properly using one for our application here on ECF - as I've not used one in the past except for checking the resistance of a pot on a laser like 10 years ago. If someone could give me the quick and dirty though, I'd appreciate it.

I have a feeling that non of my atomizers are reaching the pin in the 510 connection - I've removed it a couple of times - has anyone replaced this pin with something else to make it longer? I assume a person could use a brass screw of a longer length to provide some adjustability while still making safe, expected connection to the positive end of the battery.

Thanks for all of your help, I sincerely appreciate it!

Dan

You DID put a battery in the Meter before using, right?

What Atomizers are you trying?
I had an issue with my RBA tanks. Turned out it was my fault. over tightening the center assembly pulls the pin up to high. Reworked all 4 to allow pin exposure and they all perform right now.
 
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astrocity

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Not all multi-meters will "zero" out with the probes touched together. Watch the number then subtract it from what ever reading you get on the actual device. Harbor Freight is a good place to get *cheap* stuff but in some cases, you get what you pay for.

The pin on my #8 is plenty long... long enough that it will actually push the positive pin IN on some of my atties, if I screw them down too tight. Take off the top cap and make sure that the pin is actually there, screwed all the way into the delrin fitting and that that fitting is, in turn, screwed all the way into the cap. This should not be the area of issue, with a good battery.

You DID put a battery in the Meter before using, right?

What Atomizers are you trying?
I had an issue with my RBA tanks. Turned out it was my fault. over tightening the center assembly pulls the pin up to high. Reworked all 4 to allow pin exposure and they all perform right now.

Thanks guys.

Yes, The meter has batteries. It's not so much that it didn't zero out, if it would have sat on a stable number I would have just ran with the offest and did the math on my own. The fact of the matter, is that it's just jumped around, -1, 55, 34 etc, no constant reading. When I would go to test battery charge, it wouldn't get a reading from freshly charged batteries, or new regular AA batteries, or aaa batteries, or the 18650 I was using in my GG :) - It just didn't work.

I tried to fire with the following, all adjusted to different heights, jamming on the button the whole time. - Vision Vivi's, smok vivi's, smoktech dc cartomizers, f16 w/ boge, igo-l, octopus RDA, joye 510 atomizer, kanger protank, Vapeonly BCC mega AND nano - 510 threaded stardust style....Basically everything I had laying around, would NOT fire.

Give me a minute and I'll take a photo of the caps.


Edit:

qydu4eve.jpg

ryvena2a.jpg

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pemypesa.jpg

pyjyzy3e.jpg


Please forgive my phone pics, best I can do while I'm at work.

Thanks again
 
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astrocity

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I hate to double post - but I fixed it. Who would have thought it WOULD NOT fire, when the button was attached all the way on to the "shaft" lol. What kind of garbage is that, seriously.....SMH. It's got to be out pretty far and it's going to fall apart so I guess my next step is to find a replacement machine screw in brass for the switch contact and I can cut it for plenty of length, so it can be secured correctly.

This can't be a one off thing - what are the rest of you guys doing to avoid this problem? I don't want to bond the 2 together so I can remove if necessary. Needless to say, I won't be firing low ohm setups with this mech in it's current condition - I'm afraid it will fall apart and something will blow up, lol.

Thanks again for all of your suggestions, it was Lhartman89 who had this to try, but all of your advice would have caught this if I had the working meter.

I'll still be replacing the meter so I can test the battery level on my mech mods - How are you guys determining if it's still safe to use?
 

crxess

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Mech mod is a basic open/closed circuit. If it releases(open) it should be okay under any use. Failure to fire will simply stop your vape.

Are you talking about the Switch housing has to be threaded almost out, or do you mean the Switch pin(inner slide) is not conducting?
Pin contacts center post, pin/spring contact outer switch housing, housing contacts body. Unless something has a coating on it it should at least partially function. Hmm..........
 
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