Yes that was the instructions I was referring to. And "Take needle nose pliers and gently pull on fire button pin that is in control head to remove plastic housing" wasn't quite working.
For me it took way more than gently pulling, but its out.
Sigelei Mechnical Mods
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Yes that was the instructions I was referring to. And "Take needle nose pliers and gently pull on fire button pin that is in control head to remove plastic housing" wasn't quite working.
For me it took way more than gently pulling, but its out.
I got a bit done on my 19 today. I made the top cap flush and matched the finish to the new RSST I got for it. Looks great. The brass thumb screws should be here later this afternoon so hopefully I'll be vaping on it later
You guys may want to try using Copr-Sheild (or the equivalent) on your contacts. It's more conductive than No-lox. Every manufacturer has a copper/graphite based lube.
No-Ox-Id A-Special" conductive grease is the best.
*Don't expect much. I'm on Tapatalk.*
So has anyone found a perfect replacement spring for the switch in the #19? I combed all my local hardware stores today and couldn't find one. Right now I have a stretched out battery spring from a gripper and that is ok but not even close to perfect. If someone has found one please provide a link. Thanks!
GOT IT!!!!
Just had to change out of my thong, and put my back into it
Gosh darnit bapgood. That cracked me up!
I was afraid i was going to bugger up the brass pin squeezing it so hard.
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Guys.,... Still vaping away with my #20, 18650 and aga-t 1.2 ohm coil having only changed spring and noaloxing the hell out of it. Been the only mod I've been using and it is still going fine.
Has anybody found a way to make this thing stop giving me headaches from nicotine overload??
Has anybody found a way to make this thing stop giving me headaches from nicotine overload??
How do you pull the plastic inserts out of the Sigelei #8 caps? Are the plastic inserts molded or threaded inside the Sigelei bottom cap? Also, since the inside of the cap is threaded, would I get better results by yanking out that plastic insert, discarding of the spring and screw to fit the spring, and just putting in a flat top brass screw? Also, how do you disassemble the fire button on the #8?
No-Ox-Id looks like good stuff but is aimed more for anti-corosion in severe conditions over preserving maximum conductivity. Do you know what it's made of? I couldn't find what it's made of, just that it's black in color which means that it has little or no copper in it. Copr-Sheild is better for the contacts mech mods because it has better conductivity and we don't need the protection from severe conditions.
Not sure on the inserts but to take apart the switch just put some pressure on the pin with your finger from the inside and unscrew the switch itself, be careful a spring may come flying out if you are not careful.
Careful with how you mod that negative post and the plastic insulator. More knowledgeable folks than me may chime in, but you need to insulate that negative post from touching any metal in the bottom cap or you will have the circuit completed without pressing the switch. I believe the #8 completes the circuit via the switch, with the switch pin touching the bottom post and the switch's metal on metal contact with the body.
Vapemail.... Kamry KTS 2 tone just came in from sunny vaping and I just screwed same AGA-T on #20 on and used same 18650 as in #20.... Verdict- KTS does hits harder (hotter). But with that said, I like the ergonomics and feel of the Sig #20 better.
Going to go get some advil for my headache now.....
Going to go get some advil for my headache now.....
I never bother with noalox or similar, keeping the contacts clean does the job for me without getting goop everywhere.
Yay managed to get the switch apart on the 19, seems sigelei have now started glue the thread on the bottom button, but with my struggle to remove it I broke the derlin, does anyone know where I can get one from 
Guys.,... Still vaping away with my #20, 18650 and aga-t 1.2 ohm coil having only changed spring and noaloxing the hell out of it. Been the only mod I've been using and it is still going fine.
Has anybody found a way to make this thing stop giving me headaches from nicotine overload??
Lower you nic in your goose lol.
I put it on a q-tip and run it into the threads... no muss no fuss, no mess... Definitely improved the #20's vape.
Lower you nic in your goose lol.
Thanks Lhart.... I thought maybe it was just the juice getting distributed more efficiently.
The inserts are threaded into the caps; unscrew, dont pull. For the firing button, hold the inside part of the pin and unscrew the button. You many need to heat it up a little to break the bond of the thread locker. A BiC will do the trick.
Best thing I did to my 8's was scrap the spring and expose the brass.
Here are my spring delete mods:
Original "no modification required" mod
I ran that way for a good long time without any problems. Then I finally got around to firing up the lathe to do this...
I took two 8-32 brass nuts and turned them down to .238" and then knurled the O.D (.242" final diameter). Cut down a 8-32 brass screw equal to the length of the two nuts, assembled the nuts on the screw, and pressed the assembly into the spring cup.
Original idea credit goes to geek, way back in post #20.
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Yeah, that stuff can be messy. The trick is to use it very sparingly, you only need a thin coat for it to do it's job.
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