All good, well done.You are correct on all counts. A better meter could resolve to .00X and tell you more but it sounds like the VT510 is good. No surprise there, it's a proven component.
Soldering tip when connecting wiring to larger mass objects: Start by tinning the wire first, then heat the pin or housing up to temp where it will take a solder ball and place the tinned wire onto the solder ball while continuing to heat. As soon as the wire melts in with the solder ball remove the heat but hold the wire VERY still while the solder cools enough to solidify. A good solder joint will have a smooth semigloss/glossy appearance where a cold solder joint will have a rough matte appearance.
I've been using VT 510's for over 2 yrs and love them. I had 1 fat daddy 510 that came on a Boxer mod that I replaced with a VT510 because it failed.
Another tip for soldering is to use flux. I use Kester 951 liquid flux. Do NOT buy the stuff in pens as they dry out easily. Also, let the solder cool on it's own and don't blow on it.
I originally tried #0000 steel wool and it got most of the machining marks off but there was some deep swirls on 1 of the cases that was still noticeable. I tried #00 steel wool and it helped a little but not much more than the #0000 did. Since it was still noticeable, I wanted to try something else. I've always wanted to get one of those soda blasters but never really had a need because steel wool and scotchbrite always worked for the most part. This finally gave me a reason
.I have 2 ERM+ cases from a group buy here almost 2 yrs ago that are also raw so I might do those as well.
