Simple Dual Coil Build on Orchid v6? (I have 26G Kanthal and Lobo Cotton)

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Chris863

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I recently purchased an Orchid V6 rebuildable tank. I have only rebuilt Kanger Heads and only recently(past week). But I am getting better with rebuilding the kangers using 34 gauge kanthal I achieved a 1.7 ohm coil that fired well and gave me decent clouds but had an awful burnt taste. I think I didnt mount it right or use enough cotton(does the cotton help hold the kanthal wire in place?) because I took chimney off and the coil was smooshed down etc.

With more room to build, however, im hoping the orchid wont be all that hard. For the dual coil how are the 2 coils connected? Is 26 gauge kanthal and Lobo Japanese Cotton appropriate for building with this tank? Looking to start at .5 ohm or so. Just bought a sigelei box mod 150 watt to go with the orchid glass tank so now I can be vaping proper :) Wanna make sure though before my gear gets in that I have a basic grasp on how to build a dual coil unless the orchid will work with a single coil?

I know I should have probably got an easier tank to build on like a kayfun clone. Probably out of my depth a bit. But Im not trying to go half ... with my clouds on the Sigelei box. I would rather use the Orchid around say 50-60 watt than be limited to 20-30 watt and the kayfun. (not a fan of dripping either)


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Chris863

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dc99, thanks for the link. I wasnt aware of that site. Lots of useful calculators there save some time.

I just watched a video on the Orchid V2. I believe the V6 is mostly the same but just with a glass tank and maybe more airflow. Am I correct in assuming that to make a 0.5 ohm dual coil I would need two 1 ohm coils on the orchid deck?
 
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Ryuukon

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That's correct, 2 1 ohm coils would make a 0.5 ohm coil.

For me the easiest way to shoot for a 0.5 ohm orchid build is to use 28 gauge wrapped on a 2mm screwdriver and do 8 wraps (8 over 7 under with the legs going in the same direction). When mounting the coils put one leg through the negative post and one through the farthest hole on the positive post. This will let you mount the coil directly over the airflow. You will however have to put a bend in the negative lead so that it is long enough to get into the negative post. If you want to use 26 gauge... I've honestly never tried it in an orchid. Though just thinking about it I'd imagine you'd want to do a 2.5mm coil. 3mm would probably be too big as it will get awfully close to the chimney. With a 2.5mm dual coil you'd probably want to shoot for around 9 wraps to hit the 0.5 ohms you're looking for.

When wicking the orchid do NOT put cotton down the channels. Don't know how many videos I've seen of orchids and similar atomizers where they put cotton down the channels. Just don't unless you enjoy dry hits. Pad the cotton on the deck over the juice channels so the juice has plenty of room to flow and will make contact with the cotton, but not have room to flow to the air channels.
 

3mg Meniere

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duc916

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Don't know how many videos I've seen of orchids and similar atomizers where they put cotton down the channels. Just don't unless you enjoy dry hits.

I don't like a flooded chimney or muted flavor, so I do the opposite of this advice. :laugh: Never get dry hits with 50/50 or 60/40 (vg/pg). Do it right with KGD and you won't get dry hits and you'll also have a robust build that can actually lay on its side without flooding. I also don't use the stock tank because it impedes flow. Kayfun m-tanks are where it's at for V2-V4. I don't know if the V6 suffers the same narrow passage problems though.
 
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Chris863

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I really appreciate all the responses. A lot to ponder over. Im sure ill learn soon enough just through basic trial and error. Looking forward to the increased vapor production. Upgrading from a Ego battery and a kanger pro tank 1 to a Sigelei 150 watt and an Orchid v6. Hopefully better taste as well as much bigger clouds. =)
 

Ryuukon

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I don't like a flooded chimney or muted flavor, so I do the opposite of this advice. :laugh: Never get dry hits with 50/50 or 60/40 (vg/pg). Do it right with KGD and you won't get dry hits and you'll also have a robust build that can actually lay on its side without flooding. I also don't use the stock tank because it impedes flow. Kayfun m-tanks are where it's at for V2-V4. I don't know if the V6 suffers the same narrow passage problems though.

The VG content of our juices could be the difference. I generally use a higher VG content juice and if I put cotton down the channels it's dry-hit-city. As far as the flooding goes, it never happens, even if I leave the atty on its side (and I leave most of my atties on devices on their sides in a drawer).

Probably the highest PG juice I use in my orchids is G2s CaRnY4, and I think it's 60/40 VG/PG. Still no leaking, no flooding, no dry hits, and just like all the others I just pad the cotton on the deck over the juice channels, not stuffing cotton down them.

I also use KGD. Haven't used cotton balls in probably close to a year now. KGD just wicks so much better since all the fibers are already lined up.
 

Chris863

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Im new to using cotton. Is Lobo cotton similar to KGD? (I bought it because I read that it was?)

My cotton comes in squares. The individual squares can be pulled apart in the middle to create two equal sized thinner squares of cotton. Im just wondering how thick the cotton should be? Should I seperate the squares? Then cut a small piece and roll up real good between fingers?

thanks... and I too use high VG (70 %) so ill remember to keep the cotton out of the channels for sure.
 

duc916

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The VG content of our juices could be the difference. I generally use a higher VG content juice and if I put cotton down the channels it's dry-hit-city. As far as the flooding goes, it never happens, even if I leave the atty on its side (and I leave most of my atties on devices on their sides in a drawer).

Probably the highest PG juice I use in my orchids is G2s CaRnY4, and I think it's 60/40 VG/PG. Still no leaking, no flooding, no dry hits, and just like all the others I just pad the cotton on the deck over the juice channels, not stuffing cotton down them.

I also use KGD. Haven't used cotton balls in probably close to a year now. KGD just wicks so much better since all the fibers are already lined up.

I think you're right. My lower VG might be the difference. Although, I remember when I first put SB Mother's Milk (70vg) in my unmodified Orchids with the tails in the juice channels, they would get dry, but after going with the thinner walled m-tanks, even that juice wicked fine. I think the really narrow space between the tank and chimney walls is more problematic than most people realize, not just for filling, but wicking.
 

NCCTC

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I have become an Orchid v6 fanboy!

Running mine with dual 26g, wrapped at 2mm, running .5ohm, and wicking (not tight) with Labo cotton pads.
I do not put cotton in the channels. I "split" the ends of the wick, so the bottom half is on the deck,
even tucked a little behind the air channel. The top half of the wick hangs free (no other way to explain it).
My two ADV liquids are max VG, I have zero dry hits, and flavor is top notch. Next time I wick, I can take a picture.

The "hotter" version of above is a 26g dual standard coil, wrapped at 1.5mm, running .46ohm. Exceptional flavor here,
but I have to re-wick more often due to the hotter coil. I do notice more moisture/juice from the airholes. I assume this is
the standard coil dripping into the air channel on the deck.

Airflow: On one tank, I wrapped the bottom airflow screws in teflon tape, for a tighter draw. The other tank has
no airflow screws at all.

Just attempted a dual vertical coil build using 24g wrapped at 3mm. It works, but not that well. Very tight
fit once the coils are wrapped. Going to try the verticals with 28g or 30g and see if it is any better.

Vertical attempt #1
2015-03-10 09.35.31.jpg
 
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