Single coil 2.4 producing same clouds as dual coil 0.5?

[markaricavp]

Okay so in my first thread introducing myself, I mentioned that a friend of mine gave me a Trident RDA with a dual coil setup and my ohm meter read it at 0.5. New to rebuilding, I thought it was time to change it and I wanted to do it myself. I settled with a single coil using 32 gauge Kanthal. The meter read 2.4ohms. Sorry I'm new to this. I thought subohms equate to more cloud. Maybe it could be my batteries?

I'm new to this so I wouldn't be able to tell which variables contribute to my results. I use a Sentinal clone with an eFest 18350 battery with VapeSafe Fuse.

I'm wondering if I got a defected ohm meter. But everything seemed fine. My tanks were 2.0-2.4, and the 0.5 reading for the dual coil I thought was normal since I read that with a dual coil setup, the ohms are cut in half. So instead of 1.0ohms, it read 0.5ohms. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I also ordered Panasonic CGR18650CH batteries, I hope these will be okay/better?

 

[suspectK]

Hopefully I won't forget this gets erased if I look at a text or something..

A well made dual coil will have two resistors at the same resistance, so you can just double the overall resistance.

1/resistance=1/1+1/1
1/resistance=2/1
Resistance=1/2

So a 0.5 dual coil will have two 1 ohm coils.

 

[Baditude]

I use a Sentinal clone with an eFest 18350 battery with VapeSafe Fuse.

I also ordered Panasonic CGR18650CH batteries, I hope these will be okay/better?

The Panasonic CGR18650CH wouldn't be among my choices if you plan on doing Sub-Ohms due to their 10 amp limit, but the bigger 18650 battery will have a higher amp rating than the smaller 18350 and will be a safer choice because of that. For Sub-Ohm you want one of the batteries that has an >10 amp rating. Stay at 0.8 ohm and higher and the Panny will be a nice battery for you.

AW IMR
18650 (2000mah) 10Amp CDR
18650 (1600mah) 24A

Samsung hybrid (LiNiCoMnP)
INR18650-20R (2000mah) 22A

MNKE IMR
IMR18650 (1500mah) 20A

Panasonic ​or Orbtronic hybrid
CGR18650CH (IMR/Li Ion hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
NCR18650PD (LiNiCoAl) 2900mAh 10A

Efest IMR
18650 2000mah 10A
18650 1600mAh 30A

Sony
us18650vct3 1600mAh 30A
us18650v3 IMR 2250mAh 10A

AW IMR
18350 (700mAh) 6A

Efest IMR
18350 ​(800mah) 6A​

 

[mackman]

Okay so in my first thread introducing myself, I mentioned that a friend of mine gave me a Trident RDA with a dual coil setup and my ohm meter read it at 0.5. New to rebuilding, I thought it was time to change it and I wanted to do it myself. I settled with a single coil using 30 gauge Kanthal. The meter read 2.4ohms. Sorry I'm new to this. I thought subohms equate to more cloud. Maybe it could be my batteries?

I'm new to this so I wouldn't be able to tell which variables contribute to my results. I use a Sentinal clone with an eFest 18350 battery with VapeSafe Fuse.

I'm wondering if I got a defected ohm meter. But everything seemed fine. My tanks were 2.0-2.4, and the 0.5 reading for the dual coil I thought was normal since I read that with a dual coil setup, the ohms are cut in half. So instead of 1.0ohms, it read 0.5ohms. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

I also ordered Panasonic CGR18650CH batteries, I hope these will be okay/better?

I am using a protank with 2.5 ohm single coil at 3.2V right now and the clouds are as big and thick as a .8ohm at 4V on a RBA I have; go figure

 

[OlDogNewTricks]

There are too many factors to simply chalk it up to the coil. Juice ratio, wattage, air flow, chamber design, drip tip, etc. Experience will give you the vape that you want. Please listen to Baditude, battery safety is job one! Good luck and have fun!

 

[Ryedan]

Okay so in my first thread introducing myself, I mentioned that a friend of mine gave me a Trident RDA with a dual coil setup and my ohm meter read it at 0.5. New to rebuilding, I thought it was time to change it and I wanted to do it myself. I settled with a single coil using 30 gauge Kanthal. The meter read 2.4ohms. Sorry I'm new to this. I thought subohms equate to more cloud. Maybe it could be my batteries?

I'm new to this so I wouldn't be able to tell which variables contribute to my results. I use a Sentinel clone with an eFest 18350 battery with VapeSafe Fuse.

IMO you really need to learn more about mechanical mods, RDA's and how they work. There is a lot of information on all that stuff here.

It's not your batteries. Please keep using the VapeSafe Fuse. If your mod becomes warm when you use it, stop. Before you change anything I suggest you take a break from this mod and read as much as you can from the above link. The whole RBA forum here is another great resource. Pay attention to battery issues and how to set up RDA's.

 

[Baditude]

One thing that I wanted to point out, you were really overdraining and stressing your 18350 batteries with that original 0.5 ohm coil.

Using an Ohm's Law Calculator with 4.2 volts and 0.5 ohms you were pulling 8.4 amps from a battery only rated to pull 6 amps. That was highly improper. If you don't know EXACTLY what you're doing with sub-ohm coil building...DON'T RISK IT!

I stress, if you are going to do Sub-Ohm coils, use an IMR battery rated > 10 amp continuous discharge rate. The above list of batteries clearly show which ones are capable of that. Check your ohms on a daily basis - just accidentally touching the coil with the RBA's cap during removal or reapplication can cause a drastic change in ohms. Always leave yourself some safe leeway to stay out of trouble with batteries.



Above is an IMR battery that went into thermal runaway. You do not want that to happen in your mod.

Battery Basics for Mods

Mechanical Mod Proper Usage Guide

RBA Safety and Resource Guide

 

[jjkillian]

Wow that picture looks like one of those black pellets you light and it turns in to a black worm. How fast was that expansion?

 

[markaricavp]

Oh sorry guys let me clarify a bit, when I received the 0.5 dual coil build, I was only using the 18650 battery. I trashed the build and built my own which read 2.4 single coil. I'm over subohms right now since I don't know much to build one myself. My friend knew how hence that's what I received. I'm not gonna go to him all the time to build my coils lol so what I've built from 32 gauge is a 2.4 and rebuilt again at a 3.8 according to my ohm meter. I don't have the black box version but the grey one.

I read somewhere that said not to use 18350 battery for a 0.5 ohm build, I only did it once to try and that's all. I never went out the house with it. When I have kept the 18350 + VapeSafe was when I found out I'm getting 2.4 readings and thought that'd be safe.

The only thing that confused me a bit, being new, was the amount of cloud I was getting from a single, 2.4/3.8 build. Maybe it's because I'm using two vent holes instead of one? So I'm inhaling more. My semi charged 18650 is reading 4.0v and my 18350 is about 3.7v right now.

I'm experimenting/practicing with building different setups. I'm failing at micro coils lol which led me to 3.8.

I really appreciate the help guys.

 

[suspectK]

If you were using better airflow with the higher resistance coils, that makes sense.

Try a lower gauge wire. There's a reason a lot of people are doing micro-coils over subohm coils..

 

[markaricavp]

If you were using better airflow with the higher resistance coils, that makes sense.

Try a lower gauge wire. There's a reason a lot of people are doing micro-coils over subohm coils..

If so far everything is reading and doing what it's supposed to do, then I just might get lower gauge wire. Thanks.

 

[Thrasher]

One thing that I wanted to point out, you were really overdraining and stressing your 18350 batteries with that original 0.5 ohm coil.

this^^^^


there is no way that little battery was putting out the wattage to actually fire that coil at full power.

 

[niczgreat]

The Panasonic CGR18650CH wouldn't be among my choices if you plan on doing Sub-Ohms due to their 10 amp limit, but the bigger 18650 battery will have a higher amp rating than the smaller 18350 and will be a safer choice because of that. For Sub-Ohm you want one of the batteries that has an >10 amp rating. Stay at 0.8 ohm and higher and the Panny will be a nice battery for you.

AW IMR
18650 (2000mah) 10Amp CDR
18650 (1600mah) 24A

Samsung hybrid (LiNiCoMnP)
INR18650-20R (2000mah) 22A

MNKE IMR
IMR18650 (1500mah) 20A

Panasonic ​or Orbtronic hybrid
CGR18650CH (IMR/Li Ion hybrid) 2250mAh 10A
NCR18650PD (LiNiCoAl) 2900mAh 10A

Efest IMR
18650 2000mah 10A
18650 1600mAh 30A

Sony
us18650vct3 1600mAh 30A
us18650v3 IMR 2250mAh 10A

AW IMR
18350 (700mAh) 6A

Efest IMR
18350 ​(800mah) 6A​

I disagree on the caution on the Panasonic batteries. I did more research online and found that the batteries are 10 Amp Continuous and 16 Amp Burst.
I use both the CGR18650CH and NCR18650PD and never had an issue with them heating up in Sub Ohm Vaping and I've gone as low as .27Ohm.

In normal Vaping we rarely are drawing in long enough to overtax these batteries.

The 16 Amp Burst will cover most scenarios.

 

[suspectK]

... I wish you the best of luck, but with that .27 Ohm coil, you're already >3 Amps over the continuous rating, and the burst rating is for short situations. I don't get why you have to argue with safety.. I always argued with wearing neck guards in hockey. Until, I saw some kid get his cut with an ice skate..

 

[Archimedes]

I agree with suspectK, why skip spending a few bucks more to get safer batteries? I value myself a lot more than the extra money I spent on my batteries.

More on topic, that must be a pretty decent coil you made. Keep it up! There are a lot of different variables for how much vapor is created, more than Ohm's law really explains. There's a pretty interesting thread on this forum, I forget the name now but it's something about Wire Temp.

 

[FlavorFog]

I personally would check airflow to see if that could possibly be the problem. After that, I would check my coils to make sure that they weren't submerged in juice or too dry. I would check and see if there were gaps between my coils and wicking material and also recheck the resistance. There are a million and one things that could be causing low vapor from an RDA, and I also suggest you take a break from that mod while you read forums and ask questions, get to know dual coil setups, resistances, Ohm's law and everything else basic to coil building. It's not that hard, but it is something that you need to have a decent grasp on in order to both vape safely and get a satisfying result from it. It took me 3 coil builds in my Trident before I found the sweet spot, but when I did, the flavor and vapor nearly knocked me out of my chair, it was that good. Even one hotspot can mean the difference between your vape tasting like your liquid and tasting like you just vaped an ogre fart. Good luck friend, I hope our help gets you to where you want to be!

 

[Baditude]

I disagree on the caution on the Panasonic batteries. I did more research online and found that the batteries are 10 Amp Continuous and 16 Amp Burst.
I use both the CGR18650CH and NCR18650PD and never had an issue with them heating up in Sub Ohm Vaping and I've gone as low as .27Ohm.

In normal Vaping we rarely are drawing in long enough to overtax these batteries.

The 16 Amp Burst will cover most scenarios.

...with that .27 Ohm coil, you're already >3 Amps over the continuous rating, and the burst rating is for short situations. I don't get why you have to argue with safety.. I always argued with wearing neck guards in hockey. Until, I saw some kid get his cut with an ice skate..

I agree with suspectK, why skip spending a few bucks more to get safer batteries? I value myself a lot more than the extra money I spent on my batteries.

Having experienced a failed battery in thermal runaway, I tend to err on the side of safety. Therefore I make my recommendations with some leeway towards safety over theory. A lot of bad things can go wrong when doing Sub-Ohms, especially to someone who doesn't really know what they are doing yet. That's why a lot of experts don't approve of using them. Why push your luck by pushing your batteries harder than you need to? If someone insists on doing Sub-Ohm, there are better and safer batteries to use than the Panasonics.

I agree with suspectK and Archimedes, I also don't get why you have to argue with safety, Tom. There are a lot of inexperienced novices that gather most of their education from this forum. Many of them do not understand Ohm's Law or safe battery limitations yet and they depend upon veterans to guide them to do things safely. The OP is new to RBAs and new to a mechanical mod. Also keep in mind that this is the New Members forum. So for these new people let's keep things safe & simple for them.

You are an experienced vet on this forum and have a lot to offer to other members. Yet I think you should perhaps use better judgement what and where you post certain information, especially when it can be considered to run counter to safety. If you want to personally push your batteries into their red zone, that's your business. (Sometimes, just because you can doesn't mean you should.) If you decide to share that information with others, do it in a more appropriate place than in the New Members Forum. Encouraging new members to push their batteries to their limits is not in their best interest nor in the best interest of ECF.

 

[markaricavp]

The Panasonic CGR18650CH wouldn't be among my choices if you plan on doing Sub-Ohms due to their 10 amp limit, but the bigger 18650 battery will have a higher amp rating than the smaller 18350 and will be a safer choice because of that. For Sub-Ohm you want one of the batteries that has an >10 amp rating. Stay at 0.8 ohm and higher and the Panny will be a nice battery for you.

That list is very helpful! Would you say that 0.8ohms is like the cutoff point or is that just a close estimate? Like can I build a 0.9 and have no worries with using the Panny or eFest 18650. Or are there still other factors to consider? I regularly check the ohms and voltage when I can. I also just made a dual coil 1.4 and using the eFest.

Would it be best to get a battery 20/30A battery even if I don't get into "subohms"?

I'd like to get another mod for my 18350 + VapeSafe with a single coil ~2.4 that I built yesterday. Like how 10A is good for >0.8ohms, is a 6A good for >2.4?

Is there anything in between? I was hoping to use the VapeSafe + 18650 but it was too big. I like how the bigger battery feels in the hand sometimes.

Sorry for the questions, I'm slowly learning lol

 

[Baditude]

I agree with PBusardo that 0.8 is the cut-off. This is from his Taste Your Juice website:

"If you’re into those ultra low resistance coils (which I don’t recommend BTW – I personally believe .8 ohms and up should be PLENTY good enough) KNOW YOUR BATTERY!!! Be sure that the battery is capable and rated to generate the amount of amps required by your setup! For example:

Setup 1 = 1 ohm coil with a loaded voltage of 4.0V (just an example). Using Ohms law, Amps = Voltage/Resistance = 4 Amp Draw. Easy for most batteries!

Setup 2 = .3 ohm coil (which I DO NOT recommend) with a loaded voltage of 4.0V (again, just an example). Using Ohms law, Amps = Voltage/Resistance = 13.3 Amp Draw. Can your battery support that?"

http: //taste your juice.com /wordpress/battery-information/ (copy & paste in your browser window and remove the spaces)

________________________​

You can learn yourself how to find out the safety of different batteries vs the resistance of coil you use by learning how to use this online OHM'S LAW CALCULATOR to check how many amps you are drawing from a battery. Just type in the "Voltage" (4.2) and the "Resistance" of the coil and click calculate, and the amp draw will be displayed in the "Current" window for you.

________________________​

You could use an mod that can utilize an 18490 battery but the selection of quality batteries in this size is limited to just the AW 18490 IMR 1100 mAh with an 8.8 amp limit.