Smok tf-rta (g2) vs Smok tf-rdta

Status
Not open for further replies.

KenD

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Aug 20, 2013
5,396
9,257
47
Stockholm, Sweden
kennetgranholm.com
I got the tf-rta G2. I like it, but it does go through juice. I suspect I could go through 50 ml in an afternoon sitting in the park... I'm getting some leaking through the airholes so I might need some more wick.

b6efd02506ad1997a3b1d82dbe65463a.jpg


Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: rice721

KenD

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Aug 20, 2013
5,396
9,257
47
Stockholm, Sweden
kennetgranholm.com
Those things are a juice guzzler. I didn't experience any leaking or seeping. Iirc it was a pretty dry tank minus the drip tip where the space between the glass and metal is like a cup for juice condensation.
I've had leaking in mine, but simply closing the jfc about halfway seems to do the trick. I'm using 50/50 liquid, and most of the newer rtas are probably designed for higher vg liquid.

Sent from my M7_PLUS using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: rice721

rice721

1.21 GigaWatts!
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Feb 26, 2016
1,954
1,683
Shanghai
I noticed something really counter intuitive about the Smok RDTA. So when I turn the tank in the direction of the "Lock" print the JFC opens, when I turn it in direction to the "Unlock" print the JFC closes...wthell? Almost made me get dry hits..

[edit] Also, now that I've tried both the RDTA and RTA (both dual coil setup, yet to try the G4 deck), my opinion is they essentially perform the same.

I believe the RDTA has a bit more juice capacity and I like the aesthetics of the black RDTA better than the black RTA. So my pick is the RDTA.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: gofishtx

gofishtx

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 24, 2014
3,168
7,089
Tomball Texas
I noticed something really counter intuitive about the Smok RDTA. So when I turn the tank in the direction of the "Lock" print the JFC opens, when I turn it in direction to the "Unlock" print the JFC closes...wthell? Almost made me get dry hits..

[edit] Also, now that I've tried both the RDTA and RTA (both dual coil setup, yet to try the G4 deck), my opinion is they essentially perform the same.

I believe the RDTA has a bit more juice capacity and I like the aesthetics of the black RDTA better than the black RTA. So my pick is the RDTA.
That's how mine is too, the opposite of what it says. Still a nice tank. I like it better than another one that is a fan favorite that I dare not bash in public for fear of recriminations, ridicule and illogical thinking although surely I am not the only one that feels this way about that particular tank (Boreas). I am sure a large percentage of people have just talked themselves out of not liking it, because all the cool kids say how great it is. I find it to be too fiddly to get the same vape I get from the TF RDTA and the Griffin 25 and just do not care for it. as for the TFRDTA and the Griffin 25, you can't go wrong with either one, both good tanks with airflow a tad more restricted on the TFRDTA. The main difference I see between the TFRDTA and the TFRTA is the RDTA has an adjustable 510 pin.
 

chazz80

Senior Member
Mar 28, 2016
155
280
43
New York
Hey Guys :) Didn't want to make a new topic about this so i figured i would ask in here.
A few weeks back i received my smok TF-RDTA. After opening it up out of the box i noticed soemthing i never seen on a brand new tank. Seems like when it was being manufactured the QA guy went a bit overboard tightening my 510 pin. I looked at the screw on the bottom and it had a burr like most 510 pins get when you tighten with a flat head screwdriver. ( which is why i normally just use a old credit card or hard plastic to tighten/loosen them, cause they always seem to get damaged when screwing them in/out.

I thought no big deal, just a small burr. But the thing is it sticks out and is SHARP. I use a IPV5 and as you may know Pioneer for you uses those slotted 510 connectors, while other companies use the flat round connections. The first few times i screwed the TF-RDTA into the IPV5 i heard a grinding noise, and figured out it the damn burr from the pin on the atty causing the grinding noise! I look at the ipv5 510 connector and notice it's tearing the IPV5 510 pin apart! leaving a circle around it where it screws in, and noticed a bunch of gold looking debris all around it, like it's grinding it off everything i screw it down.

Sorry for the long post but wondering what i should do? should i unscrew the pin from the RTA and sand down the burr with fine grit sandpaper? I never received an atty like this before with the screw looking like it's been screwed on and off so much damaging the slot in the screw.

I have a new mod coming my way (smok H-priv) But am worried it will aslo start to damage that, but hopefully not since it's not a slotted 510 pin like the IPV. Any advice would be appreciated and sorry if it seems like i'm overreacting. Just want some reassurance that no damage will be done also using my other tanks on the now damaged 510 pin thats all roughed up from screwing the smok tank into it.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread