SMPL Mod-Help

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Mrez

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Unknown as of yet since I'm currently using my Stingray. I try to use the stingray at home (birthday present from my wife) and my smpl clone for out and about. I'll have it set up for tomorrow and report back. After a full cleaning and application of ox gard, my stingray is hitting very hard...and definitely getting warm through out the body of the mod and button. But thats not unexpected at .2-.3 ohms and chain vaping.

Yeah, I threw on my Big Block onto the SMPL clone today after this weekends full strip and clean and ox gard treatment. My big block regularly heats up my stingray and was definitely giving me hot buttons previously on my SMPL and workhorse. No issues today at all, whole mod stayed nice cool. I think gentlemen, we have a winner. Nice, cheap easy fix..and it lubes up the button nicely for a smooth throw.
 

Mrez

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Ok...so the ox-guard worked? Can I have STEP BY STEP instructions of where to apply it please. I am going to get some NOW that your saying it worked. Only thing is I kind of bent my c clip ever so slighty taking it off and on. Dont think it should matter, anyways.

I completely took apart the button so I had the upper housing with the hole and lower housing with the negative connector. I dabbed some of the oc gard onto a q tip and applied it to the top and sides of the negative connector and on top of the wavey ridges. On the upper piece I applied some in the hole and on the under side. I also put a thin layer in the threading of the tube and button. I wiped it in with the tip till it was mostly transparent. Then I reassembled everything. I'm running some of my deeper subohm builds right now without any warmth from the button. Oh, I did fully clean everything in advance with mother mag, hot soapy water, a toothbrush and rubbing alcohol. But so far so good.
 

duc916

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Ok...so the ox-guard worked? Can I have STEP BY STEP instructions of where to apply it please. I am going to get some NOW that your saying it worked.

Don't have time for a full-on tutorial but here's a pic with arrows showing where to put it.


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TorontoOntario

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Don't have time for a full-on tutorial but here's a pic with arrows showing where to put it.


attachment.php

You guys are seriously great! Man oh man, my wife has been using mech mods for just shy of five years now but she has never even heard of ECF (she hates the computer) and she tore all her mech mods down and lubed them all and apparently the vape quality difference is astronomical. As for my two favroite mech mods I have (the SS SMPL in question) THEY ARE BOTH FIXED AND VAPE BETTER THEN EVER. I did the ox guard, instantly I got NO HEAT. Also the thing hits like a mac truck now. Hits better then the authentic Praxis (copper) I own. I just CANT wait for my copper SMPL to get here. Man, I love you guys! YOU ROCK! I been at this for three years and I know I can always learn knew stuff. My wife has been at mech mods for five years and she is so happy she learned about the ox guard. She rarely goes down below .5 and usually stays around .7 but she said the vape quality is much better. Did nothing for heat for her cause she had no problem but she just said it made ALL her devices hit a lot "punchier" THANK YOU TO ALL YOU GUYS
 

duc916

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As for my two favroite mech mods I have (the SS SMPL in question) THEY ARE BOTH FIXED AND VAPE BETTER THEN EVER. I did the ox guard, instantly I got NO HEAT. Also the thing hits like a mac truck now. Hits better then the authentic Praxis (copper) I own. I just CANT wait for my copper SMPL to get here.

My two SMPL clones have only had one light coat applied on their switches when they were new. I've done NO maintenance on either of them at all, going on 4 months at 0.3 ohm, and both hit as hard as ever. I've contemplated cleaning and reapplying a new coat, but... what for? It's easy to tell when the vapor starts to fall off, and there isn't even a hint of that. :vapor:
 

Froth

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Ox-Gard works "good" because it abrasively cleans the surface with moving friction, exposing a new layer of fresh metal with every button press. Check out the MSDS for it http://www.gardnerbender.com/pdf/msds/GB_MSDS_Ox-Gard.pdf contains Talc(mild abrasive) Note that the MSDS basically states it's Petroleum Jelly with some debris in it. Over time this will wear fine scratches into most soft metal switches.

When you get tired of Ox-Gard, switch over to Nyogel 760G, designed as a lubricant(non-abrasive) for use on electrical contact surfaces and contains specific corrosion inhibitors. NyoGel 760G 10 gm tube
 
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duc916

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Jul 10, 2012
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Ox-Gard works "good" because it abrasively cleans the surface with moving friction, exposing a new layer of fresh metal with every button press. Check out the MSDS for it http://www.gardnerbender.com/pdf/msds/GB_MSDS_Ox-Gard.pdf contains Talc(mild abrasive) Note that the MSDS basically states it's Petroleum Jelly with some debris in it. Over time this will wear fine scratches into most soft metal switches.

When you get tired of Ox-Gard, switch over to Nyogel 760G, designed as a lubricant(non-abrasive) for use on electrical contact surfaces and contains specific corrosion inhibitors. NyoGel 760G 10 gm tube

Nyogel contains silica. You think silica (sand) is non-abrasive?
 

Froth

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Nyogel contains silica. You think silica (sand) is non-abrasive?
It's a clear liquid that won't remove tarnish on copper by itself and is designed specifically as a lubricant, so yes I do tend to think it's non-abrasive. Use them both side by side, I'm not saying they both don't work for the intended use, I've used Noalox, Ox-Gard, dielectric, super lube and a few others and the Nyogel was one of those "duh" moments where I realized I should have been using it all along.
 
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