So I dropped my mech in the parking lot...
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My first SMPL+ did not fare so well against concrete. Put a small dent in the juice well. No big deal, but been babying my second SMPL+ ever since...
I dropped my SMPL/DogeV4 in the back lot yesterday at work. It was a bit scratched but fired once just fine. Next try it wouldn't fire. I thought I might have dented the battery. Nope. Not a mark on the top or bottom of the 18650. Turns out the bottom magnet of the switch broke into four pieces. I was bummed for all of ten seconds. I work at a motorcycle/atv dealership and just found a spring that fit. Cut it to the max length where the switch would still fire and BAM! Now it's ready for work use! I am actually very happy this happened because the switch is 300% stiffer and should prevent it from firing if I forget to put it in an empty pocket.
On a side note: my other every day carry mod is a Praxis clone and that thing is damn near bulletproof. It's been dropped many times and it works like a champ.
Both are a testament to why I am still on the mech wagon.
Second side note: my auth King mod is brass and the locking ring did not fare well after one drop on asphalt.
Happy thxgvn!
On a side note: my other every day carry mod is a Praxis clone and that thing is damn near bulletproof. It's been dropped many times and it works like a champ.
Both are a testament to why I am still on the mech wagon.
Second side note: my auth King mod is brass and the locking ring did not fare well after one drop on asphalt.
Happy thxgvn!
I didn't know any better when I bought it. Now I do. Stainless is painless.
I bought the stainless praxis with the intention of it being my edc. It can't autofire or accidentally fire in my pocket, and it took the drop + rolled completely under my car, so it seems pretty bombproof.
After the second disassembly the negative insulator wore enough to no longer hold the negative spring captive. This isn't really that much of a problem, I just reassemble the mod upside down; switch stays in place in the body, negative insulator and spring get stacked on the negative end and I lower the mod onto the battery, insulator, and spring assembly.
My typical build is 26g stainless @ .22 ohms, I only use vtc4s. The only real problem the (clone) mod has is the surface of the brass negative contact pits really quickly. I know the authentics have a rhodium plated negative contact, which should in theory require less maintenance... Anyone that runs this sort of resistance have a mech with a rhodium plated negative care to chime in on how much of a difference it makes in your time between contact cleaning?
After the second disassembly the negative insulator wore enough to no longer hold the negative spring captive. This isn't really that much of a problem, I just reassemble the mod upside down; switch stays in place in the body, negative insulator and spring get stacked on the negative end and I lower the mod onto the battery, insulator, and spring assembly.
My typical build is 26g stainless @ .22 ohms, I only use vtc4s. The only real problem the (clone) mod has is the surface of the brass negative contact pits really quickly. I know the authentics have a rhodium plated negative contact, which should in theory require less maintenance... Anyone that runs this sort of resistance have a mech with a rhodium plated negative care to chime in on how much of a difference it makes in your time between contact cleaning?
I rarely have to clean the contacts on either of my precision workhorse mods which have rhodium plating.
Much less cleaning than copper contacts. Just a wipe.
It does make a difference in time between deep cleaning, but not conductivity.
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