so i experimented with a 901 coil

[unseenhero66]

so my 901 atty died took it apart and found out the death of it was the solder joint being heated so many times it let the coil come off of the wire myself personally i dont have the skills to hand solder that back on so i took the nichrome coil wire and laid it out straight didnt have a voltmeter as im broke so i dont know the resistence but i hooked up 3.75v full charged nimh battery pack to it for about 20minutes and the wire glowed a brillant red but just wouldnt die.........

so i cut the wire in half with another fully charge 3.75v battery it glowed allmost as much as a low wattage lightbulb for another 20 minutes

so i cut the wire into 4t'hs lit it up once again with a fully charged battery for 10 minutes this time though the wire didnt die i just got bored with it

simple enough even with the nichrome wire coil being such a small wire gauge its pretty tough and pretty flexible even after a month of vaping use

the solder is what keeps killing our attys

so i was thinking

(a) why is it such a ..... to get solder to stick to nichrome

(b) has anyone ever thought of nitrogen quenching our attys to make the metal stronger

(c) WHYYYY MEEEEEE i need my atty lol


comments anyone?

 

[coldgeo]

Cool find man!

 

[mogur]

(a) why is it such a ..... to get solder to stick to nichrome

I'll try one of those questions. Nichrome is stainless steel and needs a very high temperature to solder, or more accurately, brazed with silver solder and a torch. Or weld. Some say that a strong acid will etch the oxidation layer off the outside of the wire and allow you to solder it. I haven't tried that yet, but will be soon.

 

[FRESH x913x]

hmm. if we could get these things apart without destroying anything, couldnt we just wrap some nichrome around that coil? so even the coil breaks wrap it good enough that it will still have a good connection. seems like a better way to go with these atomizers.

 

[virtuetovice]

I've been reading a lot of posts about problems with soldered joins in the coil and have devised a very simple solution-twist the wires together with tweezers. It worked great for me.

Does anyone know what material would work for the wick going through the coil?

 

[500KV]

Looks like this is meant to refuse nichrome to nichrome so don't know what would happen with nichrome to copper.
Somebody needs to try and see.
Evidently an old timer who knows some tricks.
Anyway...


Here's a "quick fix" that sometimes works for a long time and sometimes fails quickly (depending, I think, on just how old and brittle the nichrome wire is). Mix some ordinary "Boraxo" powdered hand soap with a little water to make a thick paste -- and you don't need much.

Take the broken ends of wire, bend a small loop into each, and interlock the loops so the wires stay together. Pack the Boraxo paste around the joint, and turn on the heater. Keep your eyes on that joint. As the coil heats up, the hook joint will be the worst connection, so it'll naturally get the hottest.

When it gets hot enough, the nichrome wires will melt, and, being fluxed by the borate, will fuse together into a blob. The blob, now being *larger* than the rest of the wires, will immediately cool down, and will never again get as "red hot" as the rest of the heater. Allow the coils to cool down and, using pliers, carefully crush any glassy flux deposit that remains on the joint.

 

[crazyhorse]

Does anyone know what material would work for the wick going through the coil?

Yes, I think so.

 

[Tom09]

what material would work for the wick going through the coil?

Material would be silica glass fibre. You might get it from unbraiding a rope used for oven seals. RjG posted a fine exaple of for atomizer rebuilding and a shopping souce [thread=8368]in this thread[/thread].