No, you said 10mV x3 which is 3 digits in this case
But I understand now, you just multiplied the resolution times 3. Sounded a bit confusing when I read it at first. I just add (or subtract) 3 digits.
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So, I just put my new multimeter to my freshly charged battery and...
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But I understand now, you just multiplied the resolution times 3. Sounded a bit confusing when I read it at first. I just add (or subtract) 3 digits.
It doesn't matter. You'll never be able to get an accurate reading anyway.
To The OP; id junk the RustFire charger and pick up a Nitecore i2 v2 on amazon , i just picked up a backup one for 10 bucks .........your batteries are fine ..........this hobby can get complicated, and you can go crazy if you make it too complicated.....best of luck
That's not a reason not to get the most accurate reading you can.
I have a question about accuracy. When the meter accuracy is .8%, is that the same for all readings. In other words would that .8% apply to resistance and current equally. It has been my understanding that even cheap meters are pretty accurate for ohms. I am not an expert on meters so I am just asking. I have three multimeters ranging from 10 to a a bit under eighty dollars and they all give me a reading within .01 volts when I check my batteries after charging. My charger LCD reads 4.20 when it is finished.
We have several FLUKE dmm at work. They can't hold a resistance number on the screen to save its life let alome its good FLUKE name. Voltage is the same reading as a cheapo. I wouldn't buy any multimeter for measuring simple voltage over $20. Your "iPod" multimeter is beyond over qualified
Pardon?
Please explain how that meter could ever measure 4.20V correctly. If a meter with those specs displays 4.20V and you believe it to be correct then you're kidding yourself.
And can we get back to the actual charger please? The amount of "voltmeter rationalization" going on here trying to legitimize the accuracy or safety of one of the lousiest chargers in the market is a bit much. If the OP wants to lose the anxiety dump the cheap Trustfire and blow a whopping twenty bucks even on an Xtar charger. At least you will then have a charger that is designed properly and functions correctly.
The problem is that 4.20V is good and 4.25V is not. If the specs of a meter don't allow to measure this then it's of no use. Sure, you'd be able to measure truly disastrous charger results but even the cheapset chargers won't overcharge to 4.3V
Tolerance is given for every range and different types of measurements. Like this. I guess at least your $80 dmm should have a specsheet online somewhere.
So when I tell you my half blind grandpa can't read the text on my computer monitor you're saying my monitor is lousy, ignoring the source of the problem?
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I know. Gonna get an Xtar VP1/2, I believe.
Have tapped out all my present funds on a new mod and dripper though. The Trustfire is OK for now - I just make sure to take em off as soon as they go green (the ones in question in the OP had been sitting for a while after)
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I see your point. If you knew that the meter is reading .02 volts high would that make a difference. Is there some common object that can be used to check the meter. Perhaps a couple of alkaline batteries in series.
Not everyone can afford a good meter so just telling people it's not good enough doesn't solve the problem.
I am not an authority on this, and I am barely a novice, but I think there are essentially four meters for us to choose from: 1) bad 2) decent enough 3) good and 4) top of the line. You should be able to afford a decent-enough to good meter (for our purposes) because even bad ones don't necessarily cost dramatically less. A bad meter is just a bad meter, but not necessarily indicative of the price. The price ranges for good meters (for our purposes) are all over the place, and top-of-the-line meters aren't even worth mentioning for our basic uses.
For resistance I use my Provari to check against what my meter says (unless it is a hybrid connection), and they read the same (after factoring in lead res). And for battery voltage I use my Xtar to check against what my meter says, and they're both the same. My meter retails for about $20.
My Xtar and Provari are not infallible, but it's reassuring to see the same numbers. So in the cases when I can't use my Xtar to check the battery voltage, I am confident enough with my meter, and when I can't check with my Provari for res, I am confident enough with my meter.
*I am not an ultra-low sub-ohm vaper*
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You can calibrate the ohm range for pennies. Resistors are available even down below 0.1 ohms, and they don't even need to be highly accurate. You don't care if your 0.1 ohm coil reads as 0.08 ohms or 0.12 ohms, and that's a 20% tolerance; normal resistors these days tend to have a 1% tolerance.
Voltage is rather more tricky, but have a read of this: Frank's Voltage Reference
Voltage is rather more tricky, but have a read of this: Frank's Voltage Reference
I know but there's no simple solution and ignoring the fact that a lot of cheaper meters just aren't capable of reliably measuring li-ion voltage doesn't solve the problem either. The link rurwin posted is very interesting but not everyone can build something like that.
I'd say buy something like a Uni-T UT61E for around $50 It's a very capable meter for a great price.
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