So I made a mistake...twice

[BorisTheSpider]

Been farting around with a mod I'm trying to build, and now I've mucked up two atty connectors. I'm using 510 atty connectors and I remove the center post for soldering, so as to not melt the silicone o-ring. The first one I screwed up by ripping the o-ring when I put the center post back through. So, I replaced that one and rebuitl the entire thing (had another problem too). When I was farting with that, I broke another silicon o-ring.

Now I'm down to one good one, with two mods I'm trying to build. Is there something else that would be clever to maintain the separation between negative and positive? Maybe some two-part epoxy? Or would that be toxic? Am I just out two connectors now?

 

[Java_Az]

Best thing to do is buy a couple new ones. Depending on the epoxy it could be toxic but besides that i dont think it would hold up and you would eventually short circuit the connection. Might want to try soldering them without taking it apart. I always solder mine in one piece and have never melted the center piece.

 

[jonboyusmc]

In a pinch, I soldered the centerpost, then slid some shrink wrap on. Warmed the shrink wrap up and slid it into the connector hole while it was still warm. I did this on the battery connector, where it couldn't leech anything into the juice. This was on my SB and it's still going strong.

 

[jjandbjvapr]

Been farting around with a mod I'm trying to build, and now I've mucked up two atty connectors. I'm using 510 atty connectors and I remove the center post for soldering, so as to not melt the silicone o-ring. The first one I screwed up by ripping the o-ring when I put the center post back through. So, I replaced that one and rebuitl the entire thing (had another problem too). When I was farting with that, I broke another silicon o-ring.

Now I'm down to one good one, with two mods I'm trying to build. Is there something else that would be clever to maintain the separation between negative and positive? Maybe some two-part epoxy? Or would that be toxic? Am I just out two connectors now?

I always use the rubber ring from old carts I have lying around..........All 808-d's have them and most 510's do too I think,......Check this out from hoog at Madvapes MadVapes e-Cig 'How To' Tutorials • View topic - Homemade 510 connector ........works great too!

And as jonboyusmc said, a couple layers or shrink wrap stacked on top each other works awesome too!

 

[stouchon]

I just solder the center post while it is intact. It is way easier than trying to re-insert after removing. I have not had any issue since I have been doing it that way. Just tin the bottom of the post and your wire and they go together wonderfully.

 

[BorisTheSpider]

The heck...OK, I got that issue solved. Made an insulator from some food-grade plastic for now. Will probably switch that connector at some point. Now I have a new problem.

I've checked every connection, have proper continuity, and even have voltage at the connector with the battery in place. However, every time I hook up an atty, I get nothing. How is that? The answer to the obvious questions:

Yes, the battery is fully-charged.
Yes, the atty is good.
Yes I have tried another battery and another atty.

Nothing is changing except that I'm connecting an atty instead of a multimeter. what should I look for? How is this possible?

Thank you all for the tips up to this point.

 

[stouchon]

When you insert the atomizer it may be adding presure to the center post that you have rigged and causing a short.

 

[BorisTheSpider]

Oh, right - or not making contact at all if it's set too deep. Dangit. Looks like I'm going to just use the good connector for this one and figure something out for the others. Money's a little tight to be buying a handful of connectors + shipping just to play with, so I'll try to salvage what I can for the other mods. May even start making some connectors via the MadVapes instructions. I ran across that before and forgot about it.

Thanks again!

 

[AttyPops]

Tried using the o-ring from an old/fried atty in the battery side connector (kinda what jjandbjvapor said)?

Also, +1 on soldering in place so you don't have these issues.

 

[BorisTheSpider]

Actually, I just tried another "re-engineer". I took what was left of the silicone from the connector, which was the larger part of the ring, stuck that down in to cover what the heat shrink didn't, and voila. Now the heat-shrink insulates the sides and the silicone insulates the bottom. It all works. Putting it all together now and realizing I left a little too much wire at the button, but I can manage that. Looks nowhere near as nice as I had originally planned, but it's there.

 

[Skyway]

I never remove mine. I have made around 30 box mods and other mods and have yet to run into any problems with the connectors. I tried removing one once and it was too much of a pain to put back together for what it was worth.

 

[BorisTheSpider]

That's the impression I'm getting. after reading the tip to remove it in the soldering tips thread, I figured it was SOP. Apparently not, and I see why not. I won't do that again.

 

[Para]

I've do both....solder in place and remove and replace after soldering; just depends on where I'm placing the wire on the center post. If I've removed it to solder on the wire I lub the post with a touch of mineral oil before inserting it into the gasket.....slides right in.

 

[stouchon]

Glad you got it working. I have a couple of those kind of mods too, I need it to work and screw what it looks like.

 

[Gummy Bear]

If you need replacement center post seals (insulator) a trip to the junkyard will get you a ton of them for next to nothing. here is a link to show you a pic but it is the insulator from a General Motors weatherpak wire connector. It will need to be cut for length but that is all everything else is exact fit.

Weather Pack 12015323

 

[TomCatt]

A bump, because I was looking for something like this recently and didn't see this thread. I went with shrink tubing. Used tubing that fit over the whole center post, shrunk it, then trimmed to expose atty contact while leaving the bottom of the contact still covered. Worked fine; but I like Gummy's find. The isolator I had problems with was from wear; didn't fill around the post after soldering, so I assume movement from inserting/removing cartos caused the isolator to tear. I want to have some of those green seals around just in case.

 

[Str8V8ping]

i never remove the center post . I dont understand why anyone does it unless maybe they have a huge tip on their iron . Iv even desoldered and resoldered one a few times and never had a problem .

 

[addisdaddy07]

It's all about speed when soldering that center post, quick is good!!!

 

[Str8V8ping]

It's all about speed when soldering that center post, quick is good!!!

As well as tip size and temps . I work in the electronics field and use my adjustable temp solder/rework station with a fine tip that can fit all the way to the bottom of the pin . I usually solde them right around 290 degrees with .032 63/37 rosin core . Barely need the tip on there for a blink of an eye . I have even torched these connectors to solder them to 3/4 copper tube though and have not melted the insulator on any

 

[P1NkY]

+1 on the 63/37 solder!
63% tin / 37% lead solder is also referred to as eutectic solder.
Eutectic solder has 2 advantages over 60/40 or other types.
It has the lowest melting point of all the tin/lead alloys and it is true a melting point, not a range, meaning it solidifies instantly when it goes under its melting temperature.
It's less likely to produce a cold solder joint, because you don't have to hold it perfectly still for very long (maybe 2 seconds, tops, depending on the size of the joint and the heat applied) until it solidifies.
The other alloys have a "mushy, in-between" period and a little breeze or movement while it's still "soft" is all it takes to create a cold solder joint and add unwanted resistance to your circuit.