Hey mate! Some really valuable work, most of these are these notes are designed to either (A) document some info for others, but mostly my brain (B) shake out possible ideas in your head (C) Have you stop PMing me for them.
[1.] Video of that stuff would always be cool, as it's one thing to say it's great and another to see how the vapor is coming off, though I'm not sure I'm ready to see your face. Imagining a tazmanian devil on stimulants is amusing and hard to give up.
Thanks for the better pictures, that's aces, especially being to copy/paste the URL and see the larger version. Does your camera let you get a macro shot of the coil installed?
[2.] You haven't really said how well it vapes compared to kanthal/nichrome version. Does it seem about the same taste-wise, or can you detect any differences?
[3.] I'm a little confused about the whole contact coils thing and I hate that.

It could be the official recommendation was that it wouldn't really work well. You don't seem to be running into that, and it'd be really cool data to see any differences (temp settings having to go higher or lower,etc.)
[4.] You're right the spacing is pretty wide for a clapton. Based on what you've said I'm almost wondering if forgoing the drill for twisting the nickel might work better due to how soft it is. e.g., take a long length and fold it in half. Suspend it by the folded end from a screwdriver, and clamp the two ends in a a pair of locking pliers/vice grip. Slowly turn the pliers, and it'll twist up.
Here's my thought process. Titanium is brittle, and nickel is really soft, yet both (titanium especially if very pure) have decent tensile strengths (though I think my #s are for annealed):
Yield Strengths:
Nickel: 140–350 (170)
Titanium: 100-225 (120)
The titanium hasn't been an issue because you've been using a thick gauge, and while there's a definite risk of the nickel snapping depending on the weight used, you'll be providing tension, and that tension should not only help things be more uniform it might help the nickel be better behaved. There are other ways to provide tension like that, but that's the one I use.
[5.] Consider twisting your nickel, via drill or the method above. My impression is that twisted (and possibly annealed) makes it much easier to work with, and it's gauge would still allow it to be used with a clapton. You'd be lowering the build resistance further, but you can compensate for that... especially if the nickel ends aren't tucked into the posts.
[6.] How are the coils heating when dry-fired? The nickel has a much lower resistance than the Ti wire, yet a smaller gauge -- is that about evening out when fired, or is it very lopsided? You definitely want them a little lopsided, but not so much that temp-control is kicking in due to one before the other can get to its sweet spot?
Depending on how that's going, or how annoying nickel in post holes can be in general, consider trying not running your nickel wires into the post holes -- just the titanium. It'll still pick up the current from the titanium, albiet a smaller amount, so its heat-up might be delayed.
[7.] If twisting the nickel turns out OK, I'm thinking a type of staged-heating coil with titanium & twisted nickel (while forgoing the clapton on the titanium - or go for it) might be another winner. If the sizing used is right you could probably forgo dealing with nickels issues in post holes again.
I did one awhile back with straight and twisted kanthal, so it doesn't have to be a clapton though that seems to feed the best.
8. Can we stop talking about RoRo with a paddle please? It's distracting, and a distracted db is a dangerous db.
*gives the horns*