Thanks Thrasher, Does anyone know the exact size of mesh I need for my Did clone? I want a solid wick.


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Did you wrap the coil on the wick or a drill bit?
i dont know where a tutorial is. try searching youtube maybe, but i do this. i roll the wick and just torch the end with a bic lighter to help with shorts, i know on a mech mod you dont even do that much. juice stays clean for days.
personally i love it and think it rocks, wicks like a champ and tastes better then burnt mesh. in one atty i use a 500 solid and the other a 500-400 semi solid wick.(small space up the center but not defined like a paperclip hole).
the idea is the wick just kinda floats inside the coil, by not being wrapped tight the efficiency of the coil increases as there is no heatsink effect.
doing this i can pull the wick without messing with the coil, dont know about a cone as i roll a normal wick. it will be very frustrating the first couple of times as it allows for no errors and everything must be just right.
View attachment 175024
this is an older pic i took for another post but this is the 3rd or 4th refill on that wick, you can see the wick is still silver mesh and the juice is crystal clear.
I'm slowly but surely getting everything to work right. My issue right now is towards the end of the tank, my juice that was clear when I filled the tank is now dark and the taste of it is off as it gets darker. Syringing it out, flushing the tank with water and then filling the tank with juice again clears the problem but it's kind of a hassle to have to flush my tank so often. By doing what you posted above, does the juice stay clear and the flavor pure?
(the DID that I bought off the classys is supposed to be here tomorrow! I keep checking the tracking every hour LOL)
I made 2 solid non oxidized wicks today for my 2 dids. I used the 400 mesh rolling 1 1/2 by 1 1/2 inch square pieces. I rolled both coils on a drill bit and its working great so far.
I wasn't sure it would work and had to try it. I was going to make the hole larger for the wick until I saw that the wick that came with my dids was only 5/8 inch rolled. I was able to fit more than double the size.
Next time, you might even try 2 inches, which is about 50mm. It's what I use for 3/32" wicks.
I might try that next. I got both coils at 2.1Ω with 5/6 with 32g.
the idea is the wick just kinda floats inside the coil, by not being wrapped tight the efficiency of the coil increases as there is no heatsink effect.
I don't know which is the main thread for non oxidized wicks.
But I've posted success in this thread
Thanks to you guys, I was am able to vape away on my first contact ever with a genesis type atty.
What I really like on this setup is the sense of "cleanness" it has! I still need to tinker with the whole coiling side of things but Should I choose SS this seems to be the way to go.
1 question: The pulsing thinggie took over 30 minutes before showing better behavior contact surfaces becoming oxidized. How long does it take you guys?
Now what puzzles me about your question is.... you pulse for 30 minutes? Once I fit the wick inside the coil....I usually start pulsing on a mechanical device before putting any liquid in the tank. The pulsing actually oxidizes the mesh right under neat the coils. I usually pulse for 5 seconds or so until all the coils glow evenly. Once that occurs...I put juice in the tank and then usually do 10 second wet burns 6 or 7 times to break in the coil. There is no break in period for me....my first vape is excellent. Even when I was using 32g wire at most I would pulse for 20 seconds. With 28g wire I pulse for around 5 seconds. This why I don't understand how you could be pulsing for so long. I have a feeling I misunderstood your question.
Well it was my first build, I guess I was confusing what was a hot spot between the center post and the wick for the pulsing process. After playin around and pushing the coils I was able to get my even glow...The whole process took about 30 minutes, not the actual pulsing.