Just my 2 cents but with a resistance of .95, I'd think single coil would produce a much better vape.
So ummm what've I done?!
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Just my 2 cents but with a resistance of .95, I'd think single coil would produce a much better vape.
Build that thing at around .35 and use just barely enough wick to touch the deck and that thing will wake right up. I run my reo at .3 - .5 all day long (as do many others here) without any troubles at all.
Hey thanks Roscoe01 !
So may I ask what you'd recommend for this build?
Dual 26 coils @ 6 turns ?
Or should I go with 24 AWG and a single coil?
Any tips appreciated and yes I suspect that I'm using too much wick, it's basically nested all around the deck.
I like to run dual 26g kanthal like these as my all-day-vape. These are wrapped on a 7/64" drill bit.
They meter out at about 0.35Ωand have a faster response time than 24g, which still cooks juice as it cools. 24 is nicer to build with, but duals are really pushing a single 18650.
T
Very nice, thanks.
I'll try that. I'm now pretty sure that I've been using WAY too much wick
(not too tight but too long).
I trimmed it back as Roscoe01 suggested to just touch the deck and am getting
far better flavour and vapor.
Cheers!
I'll try that. I'm now pretty sure that I've been using WAY too much wick
(not too tight but too long).
I trimmed it back as Roscoe01 suggested to just touch the deck and am getting
far better flavour and vapor.
Cheers!
Yeah, the trick to bottom feeding is that it's like 'traditional' dripping in terms of building and atty type, but different in terms of wicking. Because squonking lets you saturate the wicks with the press of the bottle, you have no need for the reservoir effect of longer wicks.
Long tails can also impede draining after a squonk, which keeps juice sitting in the chamber while vaping, leading to cooked juice slurry (blech).
I will also say that there's likely no mech/RDA experience that you can't replicate on a reo. More extreme builds will just require more maintenance (but less than with most tube mechs), and, of course, you'd be pushing towards operational parameter limits with switches, bats, insulators, etc. just like any mech.
Long tails can also impede draining after a squonk, which keeps juice sitting in the chamber while vaping, leading to cooked juice slurry (blech).
I will also say that there's likely no mech/RDA experience that you can't replicate on a reo. More extreme builds will just require more maintenance (but less than with most tube mechs), and, of course, you'd be pushing towards operational parameter limits with switches, bats, insulators, etc. just like any mech.
I really like twisted 28 gauge on a 2mm mandrel. I wrap almost everything 7 turns but 6 turns should get you in that .3-.4 ohm range. I don't have a rm6 but that should make for a nice warm saturated vape for you.
Yep - got pretty much this exact build in a Mephisto I'm vaping at this very moment. Nice, thick vape, this.
Hi Folks
Brand new Reo LP owner here.
I've purchased it due to it's obvious quality and
(rabid) fan base
So I really like RDA's, my incentive for the Reo is an RDA
that I don't have to be dripping all the time.
Now the obviously dumb part.. I got a nice RM6 with my Reo
and threw my favorite RDA build in there.. dual 24 AWG Kanthal
at ~ 5 turns to give me my standard 2.5 ohm build.
So.. I fire it up, hissing and sparking at the button, no action at the
atty and the nice gold spring at the base basically turns blue and
collapses in fright
I presume this is too low a build for the Reo (?!)
What can/should I be using to maximize vapor and flavour
without a meltdown? I see people talking of ~ 1 ohm but
I was hoping to be able to be closer to my RDA-type build !!
Cheers!
BTW the aforementioned build is the bomb in my home-made "Reo"
(Dual 18650, Mosfet switch, 6ml bottle, Fat Daddy 510 with a modified MutationX V2 atty)
So I was kinda hoping for similar performance..
And yea that was supposed to read .25 ohms not 2.5 ohms.. thanks dbrandt01
I'm sure I've mentioned this somewhere else, but here goes for the newcomer. Blessed be he.
Couple things you (and all Reonauts) should know:
1) Batteries are the foundation of your mech mod. There is no chip regulating their voltage output. They will do as your coils command. This has its benefits and its pitfalls. Bottom line, make sure your batteries can handle the resistance on your atty. Some, like me, rely almost entirely on pulse ratings because of how low we build our coils. Many others prefer the consistency and safety of continuous ratings. Know your battery's potential before firing your coils.
2) Deoxit Gold is great for the gold contacts, it really is, but not if you are running below 0.30Ω. It's all you need if you are running your coils above 0.60Ω or so, but even with Deoxit Gold you will get arcing while super-subbing. Arcing = bad. Arcing will lead to melted buttons, IMMEDIATE oxidization, and a slew of other problems. The best thing I can recommend as a long time sub-ohmer is to treat your contacts with Deoxit products, and then apply Noalox to the positive contact on your battery EVERY TIME YOU PUT A NEW ONE IN. This will drastically increase consistency of performance and reduce the need for frequent cleaning.
3) Like any other mech, our Reos need TLC. If you are running coils above 0.60Ω, you can probably get by with washing/deoxidizing/cleaning your Reo once a month, if that. As someone who's all day vape is usually about 0.14Ω, I am lucky if I don't have to clean my contacts more than once a week. My batteries also require fairly constant buffing (2000 grit sandpaper). I usually do this about twice a month. Most people on this forum have probably never touched sandpaper to their batteries, and that's fine; unless you're super-subbing, you don't have to.
4) As far as your initial problem, you almost certainly had a short. Be careful when building. You may want to interest yourself in the fuse mod that has become popular with many super-subbers. It provides less voltage drop (better performance) with equal safety.
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/reos-mods/472662-spring-what-spring.html
Sorry for going on a rant, there. I am simply helping a fellow sub-ohmer. My Reo Grand consistently outperforms all of my friends' tube mods, but in order for it to do so, it requires a lot of attention and a lot of TLC. These are just a few things I've learned while engaging other users on this site. Never, ever be afraid to ask questions; that is what we're here for.
Oh, and welcome to Reoville.
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Yes, welcome and congrats. I see that these guys got ya sorted out. I like the killer vape, lightning fast heat up (and cool down) dual 1ish ohm 29 ga 8 wrap Tensioned Full Contact microcoils (1/16" inside diameter) provide. They'll net ya around 0.5 ish ohms and with just monthly alcohol swab and deoxit application my contacts - both battery and positive - remain new looking 
Yes, welcome and congrats. I see that these guys got ya sorted out. I like the killer vape, lightning fast heat up (and cool down) dual 1ish ohm 29 ga 8 wrap Tensioned Full Contact microcoils (1/16" inside diameter) provide. They'll net ya around 0.5 ish ohms and with just monthly alcohol swab and deoxit application my contacts - both battery and positive - remain new looking
91% Isopropyl is some of the best stuff on Earth for any vaper. A must-have for the vape-box. Or cupboard. Or closet. Or room.
Thanks super_X you've been a big help as well.
As per another thread I modded a Derringer and it's
performance is now amazing.
Cheers!
As per another thread I modded a Derringer and it's
performance is now amazing.
Cheers!
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