Spinner/Protank Problems.

[MJTP]

Some time ago, I ordered the Vision Spinner

I have some questions though. First of all, to test my battery, I filled my Protank II about 3/4 full, with new, pre-soaked heads, and I bought a pack of Blu cartomizers all as a test. With my Protank, my wicking was going great, and I had no leaks and a ton of vapor, but one problem: absolutely no flavor, and a burnt taste at any higher voltage than 3.3. Both heads did this.

Second, all 5 of my Blu cartomizers tasted burnt or cotton-like. Sometimes, they had the right flavor on the very first puff. I sucked, blowed, rolled, knocked, and even dripped water in them. Alll would burn.

Third, I charged my battery for about 3-4 hours, and the battery light wouldn't shut off, nor would the charger light turn green. Dunno if it simply didn't get to full charge, or if it doesn't stop charging when charged.

To me, all this seems to point to that my battery is outputting more voltage than it should. My Protank heads are 2.8, they shouldn't burn the juice until it's practically at 4.8 volts. Blu cartos are designed to work with up to 4.2 volts. I can understand my Protank not working, because it's a Protank, but 5 Blu cartomizers? They're naturally prone to burning, but I'd think a 3.3 volt setting would solve that as opposed to 4.2 that a regular Blu battery can output.

Any advice?

 

[Patkid]

How in the world did you get the blu carts to screw on to the spinner?
The threads don't match to my understanding?
P

 

[MJTP]

Nah, the Blu cartos have the same end as the Protank II. Both screw on smoothly, no heavy hand. Both the Protank II and Blu cartos are producing a ton of vapor with my Spinner just ... burnt or no flavors. Tried every trick in the book with both all of em, did all the tricks to the two Protank heads I have and 5 cartos. Something just isn't right.

 

[Vaslovik]

Your Protank coils are 2.8 ohm? Hmmmm... I know they have 2.5 ohm, 2.2 ohm, and 1.8 ohm coils, did you check them on an ohms checking device? Since you have already experienced problems with the spinner batteries it might be a good idea to somehow check and see what voltage they are actually putting out when you push that button, I'd also suspect it's putting out more voltage than it should.

I used a Protank with Vision 1300 mAh spinners for a while and didn't run into that problem. Stuff like this is why it's really nice to have testing equipment to check your ohms and volts. There are a couple of spiffy little 510 volts checkers out there, but they are impossible to get for any reasonable price, and your best bet is to run down to Radioslack and get a good cheap multimeter, which you can also check your ohms with.

 

[Choc_Addic]

Stuff like this is why it's really nice to have testing equipment to check your ohms and volts. There are a couple of spiffy little 510 volts checkers out there, but they are impossible to get for any reasonable price, and your best bet is to run down to Radioslack and get a good cheap multimeter, which you can also check your ohms with.

And also Voltage.

 

[MJTP]

Sorry about the mistake, the heads are indeed 2.5, just a slip of mind. Still a high resistance ohm though, shouldn't be any quick burning on a normal device. On my Protank, I literally pulled the heads apart after every few puffs, and the wick was always so saturated that it was almost dripping. Just no flavor, sometimes burnt flavors.

I think I'll go the Radioshack route. What exactly would I need to buy and do to check the device?

 

[Choc_Addic]

Well , first off. After burnt taste, is there any burn marks (black) on the wick?

Is the protank used before without any problems?

Check the ohm on the heads, and voltage on the battery. When testing the battery , make sure you don't short out the contacts with the multimeter's test leads. Make sure that you are getting the voltage that is set on your battery.

Cheers

 

[MJTP]

Well, on the first head, after awhile of trying to get success out of it, and the wick was completely burned after awhile... let it soak over night after that and none of it came off, both the wick and coils were fried. The second head isn't showing any burning at all, very healthy looking, just, it's not working out for flavor (and has mild "vaped cotton" tastes with little to no flavor from the juice.) I only have one juice atm, an NET by MOV. It's Sunday Morning, known for being very thin and wicking very well, and it does. I've been keeping it at the lowest voltage the whole time (except a few tiny adjustments just to 'see'), so it really shouldn't matter what resistance my heads really are; even a 1.8 should be safe with the lowest setting on an accurate battery.

The only other thing I know to say is that the batteries from my old Blu kit also burned up Blu's own cartomizers like crazy, so did a battery by another reputable company years ago. I sometimes wonder if vaping is one big ponzi scheme, that these companies knowingly make products that never work right, and that the working devices are actually the factory errors.

 

[Vaslovik]

I sometimes wonder if vaping is one big ponzi scheme, that these companies knowingly make products that never work right, and that the working devices are actually the factory errors.

It can be tempting to think like that when you are having such bad luck and seemingly insolvable problems. The vaping industry is a relatively new one, with lots of counterfeit junk out there and endless clones.Experiences like yours are not unheard of. I once bought an atomizer that was sold as a Mini Nova, and turned out to be a total rip-off. The vendor packed up and boogied, and I was never able to find coils for it after that.

You might want to just try and make real sure you are getting the real deal equipment, or.... just get a good mech and an RBA. That's where I ended up after fussing around with eGo's, spinners, and Protanks. I'm a lot happier now

 

[Choc_Addic]

I actually had better luck. Most of my stuff are not branded and all of it came from DX and FT. Except the VAMO from ft it is branded.

All of them works great! Except one of the EVOD heads that's tested off and I have it a side for rebuilt when I get to that point.

So it is very YMMV. I don't expect everything I get to work 100% so I won't be disappointed.

I recommend BCC and I think that OP just needs to work out the kinks that he is having trouble with.

Cheers

 

[MJTP]

I'm tempted to do whatever works... just at my level, I do have to keep this at a "right out of the box" method for now (besides cleaning and priming and stuff like that...) As far as the Protank itself goes, I highly recommend it for people concerned with leaking; mine has gurgled up a storm and yet not one tiny microscopic dot of liquid has gotten on my battery - the inner bowl of the bottom plate does a fabulous job of holding those extra drops of liquid.

Now concerning the heads? I found that my wicks wicked incredibly well if pre-soaked in water; it makes them all fluffy and poofy, practically falling apart. Maybe this actually ruined my heads, who knows. But my heads simply weren't giving me any real flavor, and tasted like vaporized cotton at times. One head burned up its wick incredibly bad. They seem like hastily made garbage.

As for the Spinner? Who knows what in the world. I know that Vision seems to have released a bad batch of batteries, so DV hints at. I do like the way it sits in my hand though, good thickness.

I saw on another thread where someone said that another brand of tanks had a head that was compatible with the Protank and wasn't just a clone head from Fasttech, and that they performed much better. Anyone hear of such a thing?

 

[Train2]

I can't explain the burning at low volts, but you mentioned WATER a couple times.
In my experience, water KILLS vapor - I'm surprised you get anything but a sizzle if you're soaking a wick in water...

 

[Choc_Addic]

Can you try this.
Do a pre-vap without firing and vap. If you get no burnt taste than try that again and see.

If that's the case than your wick may not be wicking enough. Try removing just one small piece of flavor wick. There should be 3 strands of flavor wicks. That may fix your problem.

Try that before doing anything else?

Cheers

 

[Racehorse]

Some time ago, I ordered the Vision Spinner from Discount Vapors, and initially DV sent me a faulty, non-working battery after already knowing about a common problem in their Vision stock, and though it initially angered me quite extremely after waiting on a battery from Fasttech for 20 days that also came in broken, DV did send me a pre-paid return package and working battery along with it, and though it was an extra 5 day wait (about 10 full days in all)

To me, all this seems to point to that my battery is outputting more voltage than it should.

and

the batteries from my old Blu kit also burned up Blu's own cartomizers like crazy, so did a battery by another reputable company

So, let me get what you are saying, as I quoted each part of your post:

The first battery you got from DV was faulty.

Then, the battery you got from Fasttech was faulty....

......and now you believe the 3rd (replacement battery) DV sent you is also faulty......

.....and also that your Blu battery burned cartos and was also faulty

and, in addition, a 5th battery from another reputable company you also had/have was faulty too?



If you were using any cartos on the blue that are under about 2.5ohm, it will burn them up fast. Blus cannot handle low resistance cartos.

 

[MJTP]

Well, both the batteries in my Blu kit died 6 days after purchase, my first Spinner wouldn't stay on for more than a second, my Twist clone came in with a broken connector. Yeah, I do have pretty bad luck when it comes to vaping.

 

[MJTP]

Hey everyone, a question - are there any other heads either by Kanger or another brand (not from china) that fit the Protank II and are reported to work well?

A little update is that a minute ago, I unknowlingly vaped my Blu cartos at 4.2 volts. In just a second, they started tasting like burnt mesh metal. Problem is, they did this too on 3.3 volts (just in a span of a minute rather than 5 seconds) so I'd say this proves that my batterybis outputting too much voltage at 3.3, if 3.3 does virtually the same type of burning as 4.2 albiet barely slower.

I'm probably just going to order a whole new battery from a whole new brand from a whole new website. Personally, I wish MOV sold twists and Protank junk, they ship so fast to my house. being in the same state.

 

[Racehorse]

I unknowlingly vaped my Blu cartos at 4.2 volts. In just a second, they started tasting like burnt mesh metal. Problem is, they did this too on 3.3 volts (just in a span of a minute rather than 5 seconds) so I'd say this proves that my batterybis outputting too much voltage at 3.3, if 3.3 does virtually the same type of burning as 4.2 albiet barely slowe

You are putting liquid in, right?

The chances of a battery outputting too much voltage is very unusual. A battery running w/too much voltage would most like pop your coils, not keep on working with a clearo and just giving off a bad taste. The battery would also heat up quite a bit, and it would probably start to swell if it was putting out way too much voltage.

There is also the possibility that your Twist "clone" wouldn't stay on for more than a few seconds because your atty or clearo was SHORTED. These batteries have excellent protection, and will shut down if the delivery device is shorted and/or too low resistance for the battery setting.

As for BOTH Blu batteries dying, again, one would make sense, but two?.....If you used anything under 2.5ohm on the Blu, actually, the coils that come with a Blu are about 3ohms, it would very easily have blown your Blu batteries.

If you Blu cartos taste burnt at 4.2 and 3.3, (I'm assuming you are not using the blu battery but the spinner to do this, since you mention changing voltages) it does not follow at all that the battery is bad. It sounds to me like the cartos are bad.

 

[MJTP]

Well, just to get the common sense stuff out of the way:

1. With my first genuine Spinner from DV, it shorted out immediately on two Protank heads and 5 Blu cartomizers (which fit perfectly.

2. My 2nd genuine Spinner works completely, no shortages whatsoever.

3. You don't put liquid in Blu cartomizers; they come pre-filled. I did put a drop of water in 2 of them as an experiment to see if it loosened up the juice, and it actually worked, I could again taste juice... for 10 seconds.

4. My Protank heads are wicking amazingly. One did fry because the factory wound the coils all in one tiny spot, on top of each other. The other one was wrapped evenly and is very healthy looking after many vaping attempts - not even any darkening in the area.

5. My coils are indeed making loud pop noises (not sizzling) if I hold the battery button longer than 3 seconds, which is required for good vapor. Does it on any setting even a notch higher than 3.3.

6. With my Blu batteries, the full story is that one was faulty out of the box, and the whole set died after six days. I only ever used Blu cartos with it, and they tasted burned just like they're doing on my genuine Spinner.

7. My "clone" from Fasttech came in with a popped off center column, never did use it, never did test it, it's garbage and probably dangerous.

My question is: what's even the purpose of wicks? Why not invent a device where a coil just sits in a tub of juice and the vapor rises in bubbles through the juice like a boiling pot of water? All wicks do is burn and make juice taste bad with the slightest atom of singed material.

 

[K_Tech]

My question is: what's even the purpose of wicks? Why not invent a device where a coil just sits in a tub of juice and the vapor rises in bubbles through the juice like a boiling pot of water? All wicks do is burn and make juice taste bad with the slightest atom of singed material.

Whatever the wick material, its basic purpose is to draw e-liquid into the coil. When properly set up, vaporization cools the coil (not "cold", it keeps it hot enough to vaporize) as more liquid is drawn up (or down) the wick to the coil. Kind of like an oil lamp; when the flame is set properly, it keeps burning lamp oil at a proper light output without consuming the entire wick.

A coil in a tank wouldn't work because the liquid would act as a heat sink, cooling the coil to temperatures below which vaporization occurs, until the entire tank is at vaporization temperature and the whole thing starts boiling off.

Theoretically I think it is possible, but I think you'd need some temperature control OR some sort of mechanism to feed just the right amount of liquid to the coil.

Kind of like a wick does.

I hope your issues get resolved soon, and easily. I guess I've been pretty lucky in my short month of vaping, I've had one or two less-than-stellar issues with coils, but overall I'm having a very good time of it.

 

[MJTP]

That could be a problem with my Protank heads; they wick amazing well, but there is no sort of suction to this device whatsoever. Maybe the coils are being soaked but that air is getting to the coils simultaniously? As my head is now, it's just the wire wrapped wick and one tiny thin little flavor wick on top of that, barely the size of a piece if of earbud wire. It would seem to make sense that the wrapped coil needs to be surrounded by other soaked wicks (above, below, even one wrapped around it) to keep air from getting to it? Air makes things heat up faster, after all. While my wicks aren't burning, more heat than needed may just cause enough vaporization of the juice that the steam tastes flat or burnt instead of simply moist and flavorful (used to, with Blu disposables, I noticed that the flavorful puffs were always moist and full-bodied).

I have no clue though. I do have cotton from q-tips that I could try maybe wrapping around the coil wick. I have no clue how safe that is.