SPRING? . . . . .. what spring?

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Krazirob

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I think its dangerous the way you have it set up. I'm not an expert nor have I set my Reo up with this fuse but I think you need to isolate the contact of the fuse better. IF it grounds against the side of your Reo have no protection at all. I'm sure others will chime in with more sure thoughts than what I have.

what do you mean grounding out on the side of the REO.....which part......its grounding to the REO right now just as the spring does.......

 

Krazirob

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You've got it set up super_X_drifter style. This is how I did it at first. Just make sure you put something in there to insulate the body from the blade that's in contact with the bottom of the battery; otherwise you could bypass the fuse like ltrainer said. Something like an adhesive backed cabinet bumper or even velcro.

so based on the pic i posted above this as long as the blade that is bent upwards to contact the battery doesn't contact the body then were good.....which makes perfect sense cause then it would ground out before going through the fuse....i understood that.....just didn't know if the contact on the bottom was good enough......my only concern was how much surface area do i need to have on the bottom blade touching the base of the mod?

is it one of those "as long as its touching its good" kinda thing or do i need to ensure i have more than a couple mm of surface area.

Thanks
 

custom-classic

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Based on your v-drop, it looks like you have plenty of contact surface area.

Important things with the auto fuse mod:




Use 10a. Fuse. Here it is in the mod. Notice the word 10 facees up:
pudupubu.jpg



You bend the pos leg up and bend the neg leg down.
Here's a pic:
y4a3ysyt.jpg



File paint off area where neg leg touches mod.


Place small piece of self stick rubber (like a piece cut from a glass tabletop cushion) between the positive contact and the part of the mod it could contact. Ensure that there is no chance that the pos leg could make contact with any part of the mod or it will not blow if shorted.


Place a similar piece of rubber beneath the pos side to level the fuse (since neg leg is bent down under fuse) and to provide some "spring" in the fuse when battery is inserted. Here's a pic:
equpe3at.jpg



Test the fuse by firing and shorting across the posts. It should blow instantly. This is a very important step. Don't forget the step. If it doesn't blow, the positive leg is making contact with something other than the battery. That is no good. The rubber pieces need to prevent positive from contacting any part of the mod.


I keep a spare up by the feed tube :)
 
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Krazirob

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well this thing is ROCKING!!!........im pushing 8.5 solid A......i think thats the most I've ever ran on a REO........NOT BAD NOT BAD.....i can get used to this.....LOL....

video coming to the smoke em if you got em thread....LOL

i like that rubber insulator to prevent it from shorting out....ill be adding that as well.....
 
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JayTater

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well this thing is ROCKING!!!........im pushing 8.5 solid A......i think thats the most I've ever ran on a REO........NOT BAD NOT BAD.....i can get used to this.....LOL....

video coming to the smoke em if you got em thread....LOL

Just did the same thing myself. I did however, upgrade to brass firing "strap", and uploaded the video to the same thread :toast:
 

Krazirob

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Just did the same thing myself. I did however, upgrade to brass firing "strap", and uploaded the video to the same thread :toast:

yeah i also have the brass firing pin.....so altogether with that and the fuse I'm looking at a .2 voltage drop on a .5 ohm coil.......its night and day for me......vape is a little warm but its perfect!!!!.....

P.S. i uploaded one underneath you....LOL.....and i bought a hair brush today also......:vapor:
 

pdib

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what do you mean grounding out on the side of the REO.....which part......its grounding to the REO right now just as the spring does.......


So, I'm not liking this so much. Nope. First, that's not a 10A fuse. If you do short out, the fuse will blow; but not before doing some unknown amount of damage to your battery (maybe). Then, later, when that battery is a little older and gets pushed a little too far again . . . . . who knows? BEST TO USE A 10AMP FUSE, which will give you excellent v-drop and pop in 1/10th of a second. Secondly: That leg of the fuse that's folded up, where it's bent (let's call it the "knee" . . . the part that's almost touching the back of the body there): if the tip of that knee touches the body of the REO, maybe scratches it a hair (or not even), then your current is running out the battery, across that leg, and straight up to the atty. Your fuse will be circumvented, and you won't even know it . . . . . until you have a hard short and your fuse doesn't pop. Please to insulate or isolate that leg properly! :)
 

Krazirob

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Yeah the leg I have put some insulation in the mod to prevent from grounding out before the fuse. But as far as the 10a fuse I went with 15a so that I could run a lower ohm coil and push 11 or 12 amps. The voltage drop I have already is perfect. So other than that would changing out to a 10a fuse be absolutely necessary?
 

pdib

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Yeah the leg I have put some insulation in the mod to prevent from grounding out before the fuse. But as far as the 10a fuse I went with 15a so that I could run a lower ohm coil and push 11 or 12 amps. The voltage drop I have already is perfect. So other than that would changing out to a 10a fuse be absolutely necessary?

a 10A fuse doesn't blow at 10A. I've been vaping .3 and .4Ω coils for months and have yet to blow a single fuse. Fuses are specified (amongst other ways) as to how fast they blow at, say 100% of rated load (10A), 200%, 300% and etc. I'm not gonna look it up right now; but basically, you have to have a surge of something like 50A to blow a 10A fuse in a second or two. The 100% rating might be 5 minutes, or one hour, or something (continuous load). Different fuses have different specs. The 10A fuse (Littelfuse) I use blows in 1/10th of a second at about 50 Amps or so. The AGC (those little glass cylinders) 10A Littelfuse right next to it on the shelf takes about 2 minutes or longer on a shorted battery. It takes a little studying up to make changes to the gameplan safely.
 
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pdib

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Good on ya' for testing. When I shorted out a battery on a 15A fuse, it took about 1 1/2 second. SeaNap, who was the brains behind my fumblings was saying that that was a little too long (as far as protecting the battery from damage goes). Also, the fuses vary a bit from one to the other. And the 10A falls nicely within the margins of a 20A discharge battery; but still has very low v-drop.
 
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