SS Wick Issues.

[Silense]

Hello ECF,

So I have been having a problem as of late and just kind of ignored it but want to fix it now. I have only a RSST atm (have a reomizer and reo in the mail) and I am getting good at wrapping coils and all that jazz. Problem is my wicks seem to be wicking TOO much. I use like a 2X3 sheet of 500 mesh to roll my wicks and trim it down of course once I get my coils going where I want em'. I also cut a 45 degree angle at bottom of my wick.

Questions.

1) Should I use less mesh to roll it? Or roll it tighter? I normally wrap it around a paperclip and have the hole about that size, maybe slighty bigger. Any tips from the pros on how to wick it just right. If too much liquid gets on the wick as you know, it doesnt vape right. So please help ecf!

Thanks guys

Silense

 

[Silense]

Bump for the RBA noob

 

[dhughey]

What ohm are you at, and also what kind of mod? Mech or VV/VW?

 

[Silense]

On a Pro-vari mini atm. My coils range from about 1.5 to 1.7

 

[dhughey]

Try just rolling it straight out, with no paper clip. I'm sure someone will disagree with me, but i've never seen a need for that. I vape sub-ohm with solid tight wicks that usually start out 4-5inches long, and rolled tight. They are of course clipped 45 degrees on the end. Other than that, if you have your fill hole unplugged, plug it. With the right wick there is no need to have it open. That's all i can really think of, but maybe someone else will chime in.

 

[Silense]

Try just rolling it straight out, with no paper clip. I'm sure someone will disagree with me, but i've never seen a need for that. I vape sub-ohm with solid tight wicks that usually start out 4-5inches long, and rolled tight. They are of course clipped 45 degrees on the end. Other than that, if you have your fill hole unplugged, plug it. With the right wick there is no need to have it open. That's all i can really think of, but maybe someone else will chime in.

I usaully have it open just because of more vapor it seems. Ill try closing it off and roll it without one. See if that works.

 

[BatKing]

for RSST, there is no reason to make the wick hollow in the center. With Provari and RSST, you can do 30 AWG 3 wraps coil. This should give u 1.1 to 1.2 ohm resistance. Right on the limit Provari can handle. @ 3.9 to 4.0 volt, I found it work as good as my 28 AWG 3 wraps coil 0.8 ohm resistance on RSST with a mechanical mods.

 

[Silense]

I always made em' hollow because that;s what everyone else seemed to do. I will try this tonight and hope I get some better success. Thanks guys

 

[dhughey]

Well, nothing wrong with the hollow wicks, i have just never seen the point of them. Nor have i seen them out perform what i roll.. Worth a shot anyways

 

[BatKing]

what I found in general, the more solid the wick, the better. Except for those Tiny wick hole Genny Atty. Tiny here I mean like 1/3 of the wick hole size of the RSST such as the newly release AGT. On this one, I have to do hollow wick and let gravity to flow the juice to the coil as the wick just too small to hold enough juice. Even on a relatively tiny wick hole such as the AGI, I still build with Solid mesh wick.

 

[Kanj.nguyen]

I really dont think there is such a thing as "too much wicking"... What do you mean by that?

 

[JimzDogz]

I have had my RSST a few weeks now and agree if it's set up the way I do with my AGA-T2 it tends to flood. The reason I believe has to do with the tiny air intake hole in relation to the large wick hole. Though this allows the RSST to deliver plenty of juice to the coil and produce great flavor and vapor, it can have some drawbacks. If your a hard hitter like I sometimes am, it will flood and I sometimes even have some juice get into my mouth. I agree the by making a wick with a smaller center hole will help throttle back the juice flow. You could also just crimp the top end of the wick to eliminate the over flow. Drilling out the air hole will also help by increasing the air flow through the top chamber. I used a 1/16" bit to open mine up some. All of the suggestions is to try to help you tailor the RSST to conform to the way that you and I vape. Their is nothing really wrong with the way it comes straight from the factory, we're just hitting it a bit harder than it's parameters allow. Happy vaping

 

[JimzDogz]

I'm not hijacking your thread. But I posted this to a thread about 3 hrs. ago and believe it to be pertinent here as well.

It sounds as if you are not getting a good transfer of juice from the tank to the coil. Rather than trying to troubleshoot your particular scenario I'll give a quick rundown as to how a Genesis atomizer is supposed to work. Much of what I'll be saying will be in direct conflict with what you may have heard on YouTube or read in the forums. But I assure you that it is sound. First of all it's obvious by looking at a Genesis atomizer that it's a dual chamber device. The upper chamber being for air exchange and the lower for liquid storage. But how do you get the liquid to go against the laws of nature and flow against gravity up into the air chamber where the coil resides. Well popular belief is it is through capillary action, but rolled up SS wire mesh has poor capillary action. So how does it work? It works by creating a pressure differential between the upper and lower chambers. When I suck on the drip tip I remove air from the upper chamber faster than it can be replaced by the vent hole in the cap, creating low pressure in the upper chamber. If you have blocked all the ports that connect the 2 chambers other than the one that the SS wick (straw) is in the fluid is drawn up through the center of the wick to feed the coil. When I stop sucking on the drip tip the pressure in the upper chamber immediately returns to normal. This in turn creates a low pressure in the lower chamber thus pulling excess liquid back down into the tank. Nothing in this process requires tipping your mod up to gravity feed the coil. That only becomes necessary if I were to leave open ports between the 2 chambers. By having open ports between the 2 chambers it is impossible to create a proper pressure differential so the atty will function correctly. Understanding this it's easy to see why it's important to leave a opening in the center of the wick to allow free flow of fluid between the 2 chambers. When using cable that center channel is created when you burn the nylon cord out of the center of the cable. Also by their being only one opening between the 2 chambers the atty will leak very little should it be placed in a horizontal position. That is because the fluid trying to escape has to be replaced by air through the same hole. And if the air can't get in the fluid flow will cease, or at least be very slow. Also many people drill the air hole out for a more open draw, I've done this myself. But I feel it's important to know by doing so you affect the pressure differential. Because the larger hole allows air to be replaced in the upper chamber faster than a smaller hole. Which in turn requires you to such harder to create the same pressure differential. I hope by gaining a better understanding of how a Genny is intended to work you'll be able to work through problems that may crop up.

 

[notawoman]

My recent wick is a hollow and a bit too loose in the wick hole. Making it leak profusely around the side especially when the liquid is hot and runny. It sounded like the same thing ,maybe not. Just some input.

 

[iamlenb]

Hmmm... If it's a pressure differential between the upper air chamber and the lower fluid chamber that facilitates wicking with a genesis, why not run an external air port into the lower chamber through the fill hole (or other opening in the deck) that extends through the upper chamber into the top cap next to the drip tip, perhaps at an angle with a convenient luer lock for a syringe for filling? Imma go mod my AGI with a syringe tip and test this out.