Sticky buttons, lubricants?

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Vaslovik

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So I've had four bottom button mechs so far, and each has had the same problem, notchy sticky and rough buttons. I've tried lubricants on them, and it only helps for a little while, and it's right back to the sticking. I've tried Q-tipping 30W oil on the parts, M1 rifle grease, handgun lubricant, and a couple of others I can't remember the names of, but last night it came back to me that I used to have this stuff called Bux Dri-Slide, that worked really great on my 20 ga. pump back when I was a little girl.

Has anyone tried this on a mech button? I think it's still around, it's molybdenum disulphide in suspension, and it's supposed to bond to metal parts. Seems like it would do the trick.
 

skoony

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using the lubricants you described will alleviate the problem for a time.
their main problem is the residue will attract dust and gum the works up again.
try some precision electronics cleaner from radio shack.
it cleans real well and,leaves no residue.if any lubrication is still needed apply a little
WD applied with a cotton swab.use as little as possible to the surface affected.
be careful not to get on any electrical contacts.
there are some specialty cleaners such as this that may well work better.
D5S-6: CAIG LABS/DEOXIT: Test, Tools & Supplies
regards
mike
 
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WattWick

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Dielectric Grease or Copper Anti Seize Brake Lube

These items needs to be used very very sparingly.

How to say this without coming off as an ......... :unsure:

Dielectric grease is an electric insulator. Not the ideal substance for an electric switch.

For something like a Nemesis-clone switch, some TLC with sandpaper on any sharp-ish/hard edges will accomplish more than any lube, without affecting conductivity. Damn... think I just did the ...... thing again...
 

skoony

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How to say this without coming off as an ......... :unsure:

Dielectric grease is an electric insulator. Not the ideal substance for an electric switch.

For something like a Nemesis-clone switch, some TLC with sandpaper on any sharp-ish/hard edges will accomplish more than any lube, without affecting conductivity. Damn... think I just did the ...... thing again...
spot on.only use what is specifically made for general electronic parts cleaning.copper anti seize has copper in it.
not good as copper is a conductor and could cause shorts. noalox contains zinc a metal and is conductive.graphite is also conductive and will leech every where.
regards
mike
 
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p7willm

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The easiest thing is to buy the real version and not a clone ;-}

Another thing is to get some real fine (1000 grit and above) sandpaper, take it apart (don't lose the tiny parts and watch out for the spring) (it helps if you have someone who has taken it apart before) (most switches are different) and smooth anything you can with the sandpaper. If it is finely machined it will not stick, if it is poorly machined it will have small ridges that catch and it will not have tight tolerances so it may twist as you push it. There is not a lot you can do about tolerances but you can get rid of some of the rough spots. Getting rid of sharp corders may also help.

Be careful and understand how it works so you do not break it. I once sanded down a delran insulator to the point the only way to stop the mod from firing was to take it apart. It is now a display piece on my shelf.
 

epicdoom

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So I've had four bottom button mechs so far, and each has had the same problem, notchy sticky and rough buttons. I've tried lubricants on them, and it only helps for a little while, and it's right back to the sticking. I've tried Q-tipping 30W oil on the parts, M1 rifle grease, handgun lubricant, and a couple of others I can't remember the names of, but last night it came back to me that I used to have this stuff called Bux Dri-Slide, that worked really great on my 20 ga. pump back when I was a little girl.

Has anyone tried this on a mech button? I think it's still around, it's molybdenum disulphide in suspension, and it's supposed to bond to metal parts. Seems like it would do the trick.

Well now I have to give away my secret weapon, its called Teflon non-stick made by DuPont. Its a dry film lubricant that leaves a Teflon coating on the metal surfaces, and it works fantastically. Shop DuPont 4-oz Non-Stick Lubricant at Lowes.com
Been using this stuff on everything, Firearms, lawn equipment you name it and yes even my Mech mods. Don't use on the contacts only on the surfaces that rub each other. if you get it on the contact use a q tip and alcohol to clean it off
 
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Ryedan

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So I've had four bottom button mechs so far, and each has had the same problem, notchy sticky and rough buttons. I've tried lubricants on them, and it only helps for a little while, and it's right back to the sticking. I've tried Q-tipping 30W oil on the parts, M1 rifle grease, handgun lubricant, and a couple of others I can't remember the names of, but last night it came back to me that I used to have this stuff called Bux Dri-Slide, that worked really great on my 20 ga. pump back when I was a little girl.

Has anyone tried this on a mech button? I think it's still around, it's molybdenum disulphide in suspension, and it's supposed to bond to metal parts. Seems like it would do the trick.

I've tried Noalox type grease on mech mod threads and positive and negative contact surfaces. I've come to the conclusion it's not needed on a hard surfaced battery contact and in threads it thickens up so fast it's just not worth it to me. I've never tried it on the switch button slide fit surfaces because IMO they need to be kept grease free.

I have a Nemesis which had a crunchy button when new. I used it for a few weeks and it didn't get any better. It never did stick on me and I doubt it ever would have but the action bugged me. I took 900 grit sandpaper to it gently and was able to polish most of the problem away. Magnets fixed the rest of it but they make the switch a bit more susceptible to contact corrosion. I really should put the springs back in but it's not bothering me enough to motivate me to do it.

If you use petroleum based grease on a mod be careful not to get any on plastic parts. Petroleum products can degrade certain plastics.

I haven't used any greases or lubes at all on my mech mods for the better part of a year now. This gives me the best performance and the least maintenance, but as always YMMV.
 

Ryedan

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Well now I have to give away my secret weapon, its called Teflon non-stick made by DuPont. Its a dry film lubricant that leaves a Teflon coating on the metal surfaces, and it works fantastically. Shop DuPont 4-oz Non-Stick Lubricant at Lowes.com
Been using this stuff on everything, Firearms, lawn equipment you name it and yes even my Mech mods. Don't use on the contacts only on the surfaces that rub each other. if you get it on the contact use a q tip and alcohol to clean it off

Thanks, that looks like it could be great for threads. They will squeeze through the coating and make contact. Not so good for switch buttons and as you said stationary contacts though.
 

Vaslovik

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Well now I have to give away my secret weapon, its called Teflon non-stick made by DuPont. Its a dry film lubricant that leaves a Teflon coating on the metal surfaces, and it works fantastically. Shop DuPont 4-oz Non-Stick Lubricant at Lowes.com
Been using this stuff on everything, Firearms, lawn equipment you name it and yes even my Mech mods. Don't use on the contacts only on the surfaces that rub each other. if you get it on the contact use a q tip and alcohol to clean it off

Okay now, that's just the sort of advice I was looking for, thank you!
 
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