Stingray Hot Button Issue

[JoppaRoadCruiser]

So last night while watching tv and dripping, I started getting what I felt was a warm to hot button on my stingray. Took a few more pulls and on the second one there was lots of heat being produced. The button felt hot but what really got me was the heat I was getting from the vent holes on the button. Now there have been a handful of other times when I thought I felt something similar....but it only happened once so I kind of wrote it off to it just being in my head. Last night was different for sure...there was some intense heat coming from the button. So I immediately took my bat out (sony vtc4) and it was cool to warm. By no means was it hot. My equipment I'm using is an hcigar SS stingray clone, authentic tobh 2.5, vtc4 bat, and pushing .5 ohms.

What could be causing this all of a sudden? Like I said before, there have been a few times I thought I felt heat coming out of the vent holes but it was not intense and did not continue so I didn't think much more of it. Kind of thought it was in my head since I can be pretty paranoid with bat safety. From some of the research I've done, the most common recommendation is a thorough cleaning. I plan to do this using an ultrasonic cleaner. Hopefully this fixes it. Some people have even recommended noalox. Also this is essentially my at home mod. Very few times does it leave the house so it doesn't seems to be very dirty. Other than this issue, this mod has performed flawlessly. Just kind of lost on this issue and quite frankly a little freaked out. Looking forward to getting other more experienced users input.

 

[noel18]

Are you using the hybrid connection?

 

[JoppaRoadCruiser]

Are you using the hybrid connection?

Nope. Using the standard 510 connector that came with it. Atty makes contact with the floating pin and that makes contact with the bat.

 

[noel18]

Just asking cause I ruined a battery using the hybrid connection. I sat the mod down and the coils were not firing but the hybrid connection must have been screwed down too far and there must have been just enough contact with the battery to draw from the battery. I picked up the mod about and hour later and the battery was super hot and ruined. Another thing I noticed about the Stingray is that the firing button can stick. I always double check that the button is not sticking. Sometimes I even unscrew the bottom cap a little to be sure.

 

[JoppaRoadCruiser]

Just asking cause I ruined a battery using the hybrid connection. I sat the mod down and the coils were not firing but the hybrid connection must have been screwed down too far and there must have been just enough contact with the battery to draw from the battery. I picked up the mod about and hour later and the battery was super hot and ruined. Another thing I noticed about the Stingray is that the firing button can stick. I always double check that the button is not sticking. Sometimes I even unscrew the bottom cap a little to be sure.

Yeah I've never had any issues with the button sticking. It can be a little "crunchy" from time to time but has never caused any issues. Overall I've been extremely happy with this mod. So much so that I plan to eventually get an authentic stingray. But holy sh**....that heat I was feeling coming from the button/vent holes was frightening. Originally I thought I may have had a short and vented a battery, but I took the bat out immediately and it was essentially cool.

 

[JoppaRoadCruiser]

Also, I'm not pushing any hardcore setup either. At .5 ohms and a fresh charged bat at 4.2 v, I'm only pulling 8.4 amps and 35 watts.

 

[Miata GT]

Any time I have had a problem with the switch getting hot it has been due to dirty contacts within the switch. Remember: heat comes from resistance and resistance will build as the switch (and other contact points) get dirty.

 

[JoppaRoadCruiser]

Any time I have had a problem with the switch getting hot it has been due to dirty contacts within the switch. Remember: heat comes from resistance and resistance will build as the switch (and other contact points) get dirty.

Yeah that is what I'm hoping it is. Its been a while since I broke everything down and cleaned it. Never used an ultrasonic cleaner so this will be a first.

 

[JoppaRoadCruiser]

Quick question in regards to cleaning my stingray....in the past I've just used iso alcohol and cotton pads/q tips to clean the device. I'm going to give the ultrasonic cleaner a try. What kind of solution do you recommend using? My wife has some jewelry cleaner/polisher that she uses with the cleaner but I'm not sure if that would work. I was thinking a vinegar/water solution. Second thing, can you drop the entire 510 top cap into the bath? I can't take it apart so I'm not sure if it is ok for it to go in the ultrasonic cleaner.

 

[Miata GT]

I don't have a Stingray so I can't say for sure but I can't see much value in submerging the top cap in anything. I would be concerned about water (or whatever) remaining in the nooks and crannies and causing more corrosion.

For the top cap take a paper tower and some 91% alcohol and crap it into the 510, twisting to clean both the positive and negative parts of the connector. Better still if the positive pin can be removed.

On my copper inside contacts I usually use some 2000 grit sandpaper to polish them, but metal polish or alcohol will do. If plated I only use alcohol.

Next clean the reads using more paper towels and alcohol, then on to the switch. Take it apart and clean everything with paper towels and alcohol.

I'll bet you'll be surprised at the amount of black yuck you get on your towels.

 

[JoppaRoadCruiser]

I don't have a Stingray so I can't say for sure but I can't see much value in submerging the top cap in anything. I would be concerned about water (or whatever) remaining in the nooks and crannies and causing more corrosion.

For the top cap take a paper tower and some 91% alcohol and crap it into the 510, twisting to clean both the positive and negative parts of the connector. Better still if the positive pin can be removed.

On my copper inside contacts I usually use some 2000 grit sandpaper to polish them, but metal polish or alcohol will do. If plated I only use alcohol.

Next clean the reads using more paper towels and alcohol, then on to the switch. Take it apart and clean everything with paper towels and alcohol.

I'll bet you'll be surprised at the amount of black yuck you get on your towels.

Thank you. I've done something similar to this in the past and you are correct....unbelievable how black the cotton pads were from scrubbing the locking ring and button threading. The only problem I have with this is that sometimes it seems like the threading will actually trap some of the cotton or paper towel particles and can be a pain trying to get that out. That's why I'm looking into the usc.

Oh and I have concerns about the water too. But I started thinking about ways to alleviate this and thought about using a hair dryer on the parts that I submerge.

 

[CoilMeister]

Completely clean the switch as there will be very small shavings or metal debris from actuating the switch and these will create an electrical flow to the end of the switch.

Kurt

Sent from my XT1049 using Tapatalk

 

[JoppaRoadCruiser]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I just wanted to report that I did a thorough cleaning and everything seems to be working flawlessly again. For cleaning, I used iso alcohol and cotton pads/q-tips to scrub all the threads and button parts. I then dropped all the pieces into an ultrasonic cleaner and let it go for 20 minutes. Got everything out, let it dry, and re-assembled. Have not felt any heat coming from the button whatsoever. Anyways just wanted to report back and thank everyone for the advice.