strange coil ohm problem

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dedi

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Settling in includes getting the coil legs to channel current smoothly through the post. This dies not happen simply by securing the screws. As current is passed through a few times a path is firmly established and things settle down. Any fiddling. adjustment, screw movement and the process may start all over.
People always talk about BBC coil head readings changing. It is the same thing only exagurated due to the Legs being held in place by aa rubber grommet and pressure rather than a secure attachment. Any flexing movement, pin pulling can change the contact points and readings will usually jump up.

Yes! X'actly what happened with me........I fiddled and adjusted and it changed :) then settled. Thx for clarifying crxess.
 

AttyPops

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Don't mean to be butting in here but just want to clarify with you AttyPops...........I have never done a micro (planning to for comparison though) Are you saying that with regular coils they need to "settle in" or whatever term you used? I had the same happen with my last regular coil. Tested on multimeter, MVP and Provari, it jumped around a bit. It glowed from center outward and no hotlegs, but still bounced a bit. I was aiming for 1.7 to 1.9. It bounced 1.5 to 2.0 and settled at 1.7 on everything. So I figure good to go :) I didn't know about the "settling thing". This is on a mini octopus.

See post 19...crxess' answer. :) Sounds about right to me. Basically, it takes a bit to "settle in" due to either shorts between coils or contacts. Maybe the wire changes a bit too when it's first used. IDK. But it "settles". So people measuring a "new" unused coil install get a slightly different reading than when it's "settled".
 

dedi

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See post 19...crxess' answer. :) Sounds about right to me. Basically, it takes a bit to "settle in" due to either shorts between coils or contacts. Maybe the wire changes a bit too when it's first used. IDK. But it "settles". So people measuring a "new" unused coil install get a slightly different reading than when it's "settled".

thx AttyPops! Good confirmation :)
 

K_Tech

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The wire heats and cools, expands and contracts. Juice burns in on the spaces between the wires, and gunk gets burned off. I wouldn't consider it unusual to see resistance drift a bit over the life of a coil.

Bear in mind that these wires weren't made specifically for us, we've just adapted them to our use. Normally when using them to build a heating coil, a variance of a few tenths of an ohm (or even a few ohms) doesn't make that much of a difference - but to us, a few tenths of an ohm can make a big difference.

So far I've always torched my wire two or three times before wrapping the coil, and I haven't seen a variance of more than .2 - .3 ohms.
 

cantstopwontstop

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This happens to me, but not so drastically. I find that I finally get the most accurate reading after I've built the coil, finished tinkering with it, and fired it glowing hot. Typically i check ohms 2-3 times. Once after i've finished building but before I have fired it- just to make sure it's safe (not 0.15 or something). Then i fire it up make sure everything's hunky dory, everything glows evenly, and check the ohms again- I typically get a higher reading then (this backs up whats been posted). Then it's off to blow clouds!

occasionally i'll test one more time if its a sub ohm build, cant be too careful!
 

tj99959

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    With a coil that hasn't been fired, when you pinch the coils together (micro coil), the coils will be shorted. After you fire the coil, this is no longer true.

    However, I have two identicle RDA's sitting in front of me. One with a 30ga 5/6 wrap 1+/-ohm coil in it, the other with a 30ga 9/10 wrap 2+/-ohm coil in it. If you were to say that the 1ohm coil vaped hotter than the 2ohm coil, you would be wrong because the 2ohm coil is a micro. So while it reads 2ohms on a meter, that's not the way it vapes.
    Welcome to the wonderful world of crazy ways to build coils.
     
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    rastapete69

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    With a coil that hasn't been fired, when you pinch the coils together (micro coil), the coils will be shorted. After you fire the coil, this is no longer true.

    However, I have two identicle RDA's sitting in front of me. One with a 30ga 5/6 wrap 1+/-ohm coil in it, the other with a 30ga 9/10 wrap 2+/-ohm coil in it. If you were to say that the 1ohm coil vaped hotter than the 2ohm coil, you would be wrong because the 2ohm coil is a micro. So while it reads 2ohms on a meter, that's not the way it vapes.
    Welcome to the wonderful world of crazy ways to build coils.

    That's very interesting about the micro NOT vaping hotter.
    Funny how electricity was the one home project I never tackled but now I am obsessed with it!

    Am I overthinking it when I rip out any coil reading over 2 ohms and starting over?

    i go through 50 ft rolls of Kanthal faster than toilet paper
     
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    crxess

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    Does not Matter the Ohm reading of the coil build.
    It is the actual build and available power working together to produce the final heating result.

    Whether it is a 1ohm or 3ohm coil, or anywhere in between, if everything is not in spec the Vape will be bad. If everything is right the Vape will be right.
    Perfect Coil and not enough wick will cause Super Heated Air and harsh hits. To Much wick and it will become choked off and give Burnt hits.

    A well built coil will also ALWAYS heat from center out, whether a Micro-coil or a simple 3/4 wrap.

    The necessity for low/sub ohm coils is simply to force increased power to raise temperatures to Boil More e-liquid in hopes to boost Flavor and Fog rooms, errrr.......increase Vapor.:)
     
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