Just want to make sure I'm not missing anything. Sub-ohm is geared towards mech mods only because they can't raise voltage correct? Isn't lower resistance going to pull more amps and drain batteries faster? Kanger is making a new 0.5 ohm BPDC coil for their SUBTANK, but I'm using a GL50 with no voltage step down unfortunately and I'd be stuck at 30 watts minimum. Is there a reason they couldn't make one with higher resistance for VV/VW folks?
Sub-ohm pointless in a VV/VW?
- Thread starter THEhomelessONE
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Welcome to ECF, homeless...
One of the advantages of high power output APVs is that you can fire low resistance coils at a constant and consistent output... a reason why many died-in-the-wool mech users are switching to high output APVs.
Consider that for a 0.5Ω dual coil atomizer, an unregulated mech user will draw 8.4 amps/35 watts from a fully charged (4.2 volts) 18000 series battery. The output will begin to drop and degrade immediately... as there is no boost circuitry to offset it. An experienced mech user will be aware of the batteries output and will have changed the battery long before substantial performance decline.
With a regulated APV, there is no vape performance degradation until the chipset senses input values below minimum requirements for the desired resistance/output. The first draw is as good as the last... or at least until your APV warns you it's time for a re-charge, or battery replacement... or simply shuts off.
Yes... low resistance, regardless of power method, does discharge your battery at a higher rate... but for most, the warm, thick and flavorful vape experience is well worth it.
In the end, everything is a trade-off... and your personal priorities establish equipment needs.
One of the advantages of high power output APVs is that you can fire low resistance coils at a constant and consistent output... a reason why many died-in-the-wool mech users are switching to high output APVs.
Consider that for a 0.5Ω dual coil atomizer, an unregulated mech user will draw 8.4 amps/35 watts from a fully charged (4.2 volts) 18000 series battery. The output will begin to drop and degrade immediately... as there is no boost circuitry to offset it. An experienced mech user will be aware of the batteries output and will have changed the battery long before substantial performance decline.
With a regulated APV, there is no vape performance degradation until the chipset senses input values below minimum requirements for the desired resistance/output. The first draw is as good as the last... or at least until your APV warns you it's time for a re-charge, or battery replacement... or simply shuts off.
Yes... low resistance, regardless of power method, does discharge your battery at a higher rate... but for most, the warm, thick and flavorful vape experience is well worth it.
In the end, everything is a trade-off... and your personal priorities establish equipment needs.
I see, thanks! Completely agree with you about everything being a trade-off. Reliability versus consistency in this case. Coming from a Seven-22 with an Aerotank Giant. Returned the Seven-22 since it was having problems. Now I'm stuck waiting for the Nautilus tank to use the GL50. Hope the BVC coils live up to the hype. Part of me wishes I ordered the Joyetech Delta instead 
I really have no idea why Kanger (and Aspire) are introducing sub-ohm coils--they will not work with any popular vv/vw mods or even their own eVod batteries. They will not fire on the MVP2, iSticks, even ProVaris... 
Sub-ohm coils (and mech mods) were once a necessity for people who wanted to achieve higher wattages on 5 (or 6V) batteries. But with the introduction of high-watt mods, sub-ohm coils are quickly becoming a dinosaur of the vaping world. Higher resistance coils with more complex builds and increased surface area and airflow on higher-watt devices are the future--if you ask me. And small DNA box mods instead of huge metal tubes.
Having said that, I love everything about the Sub Tank--the vertical coil, the dual RBA/premade coil capability, the looks, the adjustable pin, the fact that those coils are compatible with other Kanger tanks--everything but the resistance. I hope that Kanger will make higher resistance BPDC coils. If not--they are useless for me.
Sub-ohm coils (and mech mods) were once a necessity for people who wanted to achieve higher wattages on 5 (or 6V) batteries. But with the introduction of high-watt mods, sub-ohm coils are quickly becoming a dinosaur of the vaping world. Higher resistance coils with more complex builds and increased surface area and airflow on higher-watt devices are the future--if you ask me.
And small DNA box mods instead of huge metal tubes. Having said that, I love everything about the Sub Tank--the vertical coil, the dual RBA/premade coil capability, the looks, the adjustable pin, the fact that those coils are compatible with other Kanger tanks--everything but the resistance. I hope that Kanger will make higher resistance BPDC coils. If not--they are useless for me.
Last edited:
Other than when I look them up to help others, all the APV and glassomizer brands / models / specs don't mean much to me... sorry. I'm one of those died-in-the-wool mech / RBA users, who's throw-away coil head atty / regulated mod period was pretty short lived.
I prefer equipment of minimalist simplicity, where if something goes wrong, it's easily fixed. The actual batteries are about as high-tech as I get... and if there were such a thing as rebuildable batteries, I'd have them.
Not saying what you choose is wrong-headed... just that your trade-offs aren't my trade-offs. But then, I'm one of those old geezers that makes his own ammunition, builds his own guns, wears a mechanical wristwatch, doesn't own a digital camera, carries a 12 year old flip-phone, rides a Triumph as old as me and drives a manual transmission Jeep with a soft top.
My granddaughter calls me "the caveman" when she doesn't need anything, and "thanks grandpa" when her car breaks down or her refrigerator makes "funny sounds". ;-)
That's good to know thanks! Question along those lines.. How do you calculate volts with watts and ohms??
Wattage = voltage squared divided by resistance
Online Conversion - Ohm's Law Calculator
More on the subject in this post:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/fo...620554-whats-better-vv-orvw.html#post14522193
- Status
Similar threads
- Locked
