Sub-Ohm'ing with Temperature Control (TC) & Nickel vs not Sub-Ohm'ing with Kanthal and no TC

[mcclintock]

In the sense that "sub ohm" normally applies, none of this is sub-ohm. Sub ohm means when you put it on a mech, a lot of power flows. In this case, you never do that, and not near as much power flows because the voltage is stepped down as needed.

 

[Hitcat44]

In the sense that "sub ohm" normally applies, none of this is sub-ohm. Sub ohm means when you put it on a mech, a lot of power flows. In this case, you never do that, and not near as much power flows because the voltage is stepped down as needed.

"Sub-Ohm" actually and factually refers to exactly what the Words themselves mean by definition....
Resistance is LESS THAN 1 Ohm. Therefore, Sub-Ohm means simply that the Atty (RDA/RTA/etc.) is built to LESS THAN 1 Ohm.
So, 0.99 Ohms is still "Sub-Ohm" by definition.
Your Personal Perceptions and Terminology may vary and that's Cool. However, personal Opinions and Perceptions are of no consequence to what the Words actually mean or their Applications.

The Power Source/Mod/Etc. has really nothing to do with that. Tons of "Sub-Ohm'ers" that don't even own a Mech much less use them. I personally Sub-Ohm on Mechs and Variables loaded with RDA's and RTA's built anywhere from 0.5 ohm down to 0.12 ohm. I have nothing that runs a pre-made or a Build of more than that. Just because I remove a single-Coil 0.21 ohm built RTA (or my 0.45 ohm RDA) from my Hollowpoint Mech and strap it to a SX Mini M (or subbox Mini) does not suddenly transform or alter the Sub-Ohm build by Definition or Performance.

Plus, you can apply a lot more "Power" with a Variable than you can with a Mech. It's all in how you set it. How Much Power and How it is being applied has nothing to do with whether One is Sub-Ohming or not.... other than it's Efficiency of course.

 

[Trayce]

Get 26 ga for Single Coils and 28 for Double. Especially if you are going to shoot for higher Ohms. Just be aware that most TC Devices won't fire if the Resistance is higher than a certain ohm (usually around 0.3-0.35 or so). That's why most Ti TC Vapers are typically around the 0.2 Range. Don't be put off by that. I normally RDA Vape around the 0.45 range but on Ti/TC prefer 0.20-0.23 which is a well performing 6/5 Wrap on a @ 2.5mm Mandrel I.D. If you want closer to the 0.3 range, add a Loop or two or if Build space is limited, go to a 3mm Mandrel.

Excellent info, thanks. The IPV4S joules range is .05 - .30 -- maybe I don't need to be concerned about the build being low now that I'm starting to understand more. If I wasn't concerned about that would 5mm/24g be easier to work with for the single coils?

Use the 28 gauge if you are building a Double Coil so you don't have to go two few Wraps. Need a decent Heating Area or you won't get max efficiency due to too small of a Coil Area.

Understood and a great tip.

Good Source for G-1 Ti is on Easy. Unkammen is the Sellers ID/Name
Pure Titanium Wire 100% Guarantee Specific by UnkamenSupplies
Very Tried and Proven.

When looking around last night I bookmarked this: http://www.unkamensupplies.com/products/pure-titanium-wire-100-guarantee-specific-for-jewelry-surgical-grade-1-you-pick-gauge-14-16-18-20-22-24-26-28-30-32?variant=1072287925
along with this source:
Amazon.com : Titanium Wire Gr. 1 Pure .50 Mm 50 Ft. Round Wire : Everything Else
... the latter being couple bucks more for 50' (24g) and free shipping. However the latter source, while it says G1, does not specify purity as 99.5% (maybe all G1 is, IDK), nor say how it is prepared. But it looked shiny compared to the former (Unkamen) that's acid washed. I was thinking that acid wash was probably why some people get a bad taste from Ti initially, since acid smells sulfuric. But for all I know the other source is acid washed too. IAC cleaning it, like you say, should remove that and certainly worth doing over spending $1/ft for "vape specific" Ti like Spiderweb.

Cut the Section for a Coil, wipe it through an Isopropyl soaked Cloth a few times to get off the Production Residue, and Coil away. After that, absolutely no need to Dry-Pulse. It is partially annealed so not too springy which is another reason not to have to self-anneal with heat. Not had any issues myself. I use a 3/32" (2.38mm) Bit to Wrap so when the Coil springs outward a tad naturally, the I.D. grows to about 2.5-2.6mm and I use 2.55 on Steam Engine when figuring and plotting accordingly.

Blue to slight Gold color is fine. Light Grey to White is a No-Go. Again, I don't Dry-Pulse or self-Annual and have NEVER had any issues with discoloration/Oxidation.

All of this will save a lot of trial and error, thanks.

The Ti Boogie-Man does exist but is rather small and can be easily put down with a bit of Research and due Diligence in application with a smattering of Common Sense. Pretty much the same with any and all Aspects & Facets of the Vape-Life.

And life in general.

Thanks again for this and thanks again to CasketWeaver too for helping me see my way clear. Much appreciated.

 

[Hitcat44]

Wouldn't go with 24 ga over the 26. But, that's just me based on what I have read and have Experience with.

Ya gotta be REAL Careful on Ti Wire Sources. "Unkammen is Tried & Proven. Don't know squat about the Amazon Source. You might ask on one of the 2 Threads I referenced above. The One on the SX Mini M has become partly a Ti TC "In General" Thread so chime in.

It's All Good. My pleasure in helping someone as I was in your Shoes once as well and got a lot of help here from the real Ti Pioneers. I'm just passing on what they told and showed me.

 

[Trayce]

Wouldn't go with 24 ga over the 26. But, that's just me based on what I have read and have Experience with.

Ya gotta be REAL Careful on Ti Wire Sources. "Unkammen is Tried & Proven. Don't know squat about the Amazon Source. You might ask on one of the 2 Threads I referenced above. The One on the SX Mini M has become partly a Ti TC "In General" Thread so chime in.

It's All Good. My pleasure in helping someone as I was in your Shoes once as well and got a lot of help here from the real Ti Pioneers. I'm just passing on what they told and showed me.

OK, will follow your lead and go with Unkammen and 26g (I don't do dual coils). I agree trusting the Ti vendor is important. Thanks again, friend.

 

[Hitcat44]

My pleasure my Vape Brother

 

[Trayce]

My pleasure my Vape Brother

Close, I'm a sister. Just one appendage missing here... and a couple others added. LOL.

 

[Hitcat44]

Oopsie....
Forum Anonymity and Ambiguity does have its "Foibles" & fallabilities to deal with at times.
My humble Apologies Miss

 

[Trayce]

None needed, sir.

 

[mcclintock]

"Sub-Ohm" actually and factually refers to exactly what the Words themselves mean by definition....
Resistance is LESS THAN 1 Ohm. Therefore, Sub-Ohm means simply that the Atty (RDA/RTA/etc.) is built to LESS THAN 1 Ohm.
So, 0.99 Ohms is still "Sub-Ohm" by definition.
Your Personal Perceptions and Terminology may vary and that's Cool. However, personal Opinions and Perceptions are of no consequence to what the Words actually mean or their Applications.

The Power Source/Mod/Etc. has really nothing to do with that. Tons of "Sub-Ohm'ers" that don't even own a Mech much less use them. I personally Sub-Ohm on Mechs and Variables loaded with RDA's and RTA's built anywhere from 0.5 ohm down to 0.12 ohm. I have nothing that runs a pre-made or a Build of more than that. Just because I remove a single-Coil 0.21 ohm built RTA (or my 0.45 ohm RDA) from my Hollowpoint Mech and strap it to a SX Mini M (or SubBox Mini) does not suddenly transform or alter the Sub-Ohm build by Definition or Performance.

Plus, you can apply a lot more "Power" with a Variable than you can with a Mech. It's all in how you set it. How Much Power and How it is being applied has nothing to do with whether One is Sub-Ohming or not.... other than it's Efficiency of course.

Even a 5 watt nickel TC build is less than 1 ohm due to practical considerations. While I would agree that sub-ohm is of limited meaning anyway in what it implies, it's even less then.

 

[Hitcat44]

Even a 5 watt nickel TC build is less than 1 ohm due to practical considerations. While I would agree that sub-ohm is of limited meaning anyway in what it implies, it's even less then.

P.s. Upon Re-read... I get it now. maybe.....

P.p.s. Nope. I tried. Still don't "Get" the Point. Oh well. It's All still Good I suppose.

 

[CasketWeaver]

Yup no problem, it was good to see others stepping in here. My opinion about TC is if it's misused, anything fathomable can and will go wrong. I like the car reference too. Just because a car CAN kill you shouldn't sway your judgement on buying it. Anything in excess is dangerous to a point. Drinking too much water can kill you, eating too much of something can kill you, the world itself... well it can kill you too. Technology is no different... if it's misused or used in a way that makes absolutely no sense or used in a way it wasn't intended, then it will probably kill you. Same goes with NON-TC wire as well. N80 will probably kill you if you misuse it. Kanthal A1 can probably kill you if you misuse it. Nickel will probably kill you if you misuse it. Same goes with titanium. Or any other metal if it's misused or mistreated. It's a simple fact in life. Will I use titanium again? Maybe. Once it becomes more easily accessible and has more than a handful of vendors and manufacturers. Same with nickel. I like all wire. I'm not against using any of it. However, I PREFER some wires over the other, but again, I use everything I own at my own risk with the understanding that if it's misused or mistreated - it will probably kill me.

 

[Hitcat44]

6 of One-Half Dozen of Another.

Mister,
I do know I Aim to Vape It