Subohming and my wattage... Help and Thoughts

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shannalove

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How much of a difference? And about my wattage? (sorry, loaded ?'s) Long ago, here, I was a "newbie" and guess I still am. I've not smoked now, vaping, for 3 years in September. Beginning with just an very simple e-go kit, with your encouragement, I stepped up to my current"set-up", istick 30 watt and Nautilus Mini... of late, I've stepped with a Triton as not a big leap or gamble as I needed branch out in to another coil type... $ always a factor. I've always seen things "between 12-16 watts" and higher wattage. It seems any time I even hit 10 I get a burnt taste. This has always been the way??? I don't think I'm tasting my juice as much as I should be? I'm forced to revisit the "sub-ohm" idea? (many thoughts about increased liquid consumption, coil extras, etc).... Does anyone have an answer as to why I've not seemed to need the wattage people talk about with my current set up? I'm really little, small hands, I'd grab a sub box nano, if anything but am well aware of some of the troubles people have experienced with leaking. (I like 2 switch out my current tanks for different flavors.... I'm not seeing that I can really much increase the wattage even with the Triton Mini, although I really like it. I'm missing tasting my juice and wondering why I have to use a wattage variation so so so much lower than that normally associated with the set up. Is it worth it to grab the sub-ohm kit? Also, is the sub box the same coil issue as the Triton with 1.2 ohm as opposed to SUB? Again, I'm sorry if this seems so wordy and possibly difficult to understand, but you all out there have the answers... I'm trying to sort this and I know no else how but to ask the community... Thanks in advance for any help :)
 
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Haktuspit

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    Well I can give you a noob answer to get you started. The higher ohm coils, looks like that came with a 1.2 and a 1.8 ohm, aren't used at the same wattages as sub ohm coils, which typically come in 0.5 ohms. The lower ohm coils can handle the higher wattages. 1.2+ coils are usually used as "mouth to lung" types of inhales, and sub ohm are usually direct lung inhales. Nautilius mini is a perfect example of mouth to lung. Sounds like you may not have yet experience direct lung.

    As far as dry hits are concerned it's usually a wicking or a hitting too often issue. What kind of juice are you using? I use 100% VG and it's the thickest stuff ever and even that wicked well in an Aspire Nautlius mini.

    Also if you can you should probably clarify which coil you have been using, 1.2 or 1.8. That will help someone with a better answer.

    For sub ohm coils I really like my kanger toptanks, and they usually come packaged with a kanger sub box. Still have the white kit for under $40 at my freedom smokes that I found. Kanger Topbox Mini Starter Kit Pull the drop down and select white for the discount.
     

    IMFire3605

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    Okay, if you are using a tank or device that is 1.0ohms or higher, it is above an Ohm, wattage will be lower as the wire is thinner and needs less power to reach heat flux enough to vaporize. Example, I run rebuildable tanks that I set up coils in the 1.2 to 1.8ohm range at or between 8 to 12 watts, using thinner 28awg wire. On my Subtanks, Crius, and Griffon tanks, these are sub-ohm (below 1.0ohms) in the range of 0.4 to 0.7ohms, I run these in the range of 20 to 30watts, using thicker 26awg wire, thicker wires mean lower resistance, but also more wire mass to heat up to proper vaporizing flux, thus needing more power. On my rebuildable drippers, I range in with even larger mass coils though still in the 0.2 to 0.4 super-sub-ohm range, these I run in the 50 to 75watts range, 24awg wire. So, you are used to the Nautilus tank that uses 1.6 and 1.8ohm coils, 12 to 14watts with full wide open airflow is the sweet spot with the Nautilus, the Triton Mini with its 1.2ohm coils, full open airflow about 16 to 18watts I would guess is the sweet spot with it, even the Triton V1 and V2, the sub-ohm coils for them in the 0.4ohm range even at full open airflow doing direct to lung inhale instead of mouth to lung, about 30 to 40watts was the max to push them. There are a lot of variables, wire mass, air flow efficiency, resistance, wicking speed, wicking matterial all play a factor.

    Best advice, set your airflow to the way you like it for tightness/looseness, set your wattage low, and every few hits bump the wattage up a notch until you hit your sweet spot for flavor and throat hit, get a scorched or scratchy almost dry hit, bump the wattage down a couple notches until smooth flavor returns, that will be the sweet spot for that tank/coil combination.
     

    djsvapour

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    ... Does anyone have an answer as to why I've not seemed to need the wattage people talk about with my current set up?

    Truth is, the majority of vapers are happy with whatever their set up gives them or use 'medium' power tanks between 8-20 watts.
    It is the enthusiasts that encourage higher power vaping and now, of course, the industry itself wants to sell more impressive kit and let's not forget the greed of the liquid business.

    You shouldn't be having problems with 10w on any modern tank/coil. Just keep experimenting. Never blindly trust the watts range suggested by the manufacturer, they are known to be less than honest with the coil rating.
     
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    subwayaznm

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    First off I found the Aspire Triton Tank to be more of a direct Lung hit Tank; since the Air Flow is too loose for a MTL hit. But it isn't really a Sub Ohm Tank. Lower wattage use is the way to go with this Tank given the Heads it comes with; say around 10 - 15 at best. Now a question; did you prep your head before using it? Meaning once installed prior to screwing the base into the Tank itself did you drop a little juice down into the Head? If not then you will more than likely have burnt the head and subsequent hits would taste dry/burnt. If that was the case the only fix would be to install a new head and pre juice that one prior to use
     

    BrotherBob

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    I don't think I'm tasting my juice as much as I should be
    You may be heading in the wrong direction with regards to switching to sub ohm'g.
    In General higher ohm coils/lower wattage (generally MTL) vaping will:
    Heat the coil slower, which may produce “less” vapor
    Provide A “cooler” tasting vape, may produce more flavor
    May use less E-Juice (<$)
    Prolong battery life (<$)
    Prolong coil life (<$)
    Prolong wick life (<$)
    Less likely to burn the wick (RDA's)
    May result in less PV maintenance/Issues
    Less irritation to non vapers
    Aids stealth vaping
     

    shannalove

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    Okay, if you are using a tank or device that is 1.0ohms or higher, it is above an Ohm, wattage will be lower as the wire is thinner and needs less power to reach heat flux enough to vaporize. Example, I run rebuildable tanks that I set up coils in the 1.2 to 1.8ohm range at or between 8 to 12 watts, using thinner 28awg wire. On my Subtanks, Crius, and Griffon tanks, these are sub-ohm (below 1.0ohms) in the range of 0.4 to 0.7ohms, I run these in the range of 20 to 30watts, using thicker 26awg wire, thicker wires mean lower resistance, but also more wire mass to heat up to proper vaporizing flux, thus needing more power. On my rebuildable drippers, I range in with even larger mass coils though still in the 0.2 to 0.4 super-sub-ohm range, these I run in the 50 to 75watts range, 24awg wire. So, you are used to the Nautilus tank that uses 1.6 and 1.8ohm coils, 12 to 14watts with full wide open airflow is the sweet spot with the Nautilus, the Triton Mini with its 1.2ohm coils, full open airflow about 16 to 18watts I would guess is the sweet spot with it, even the Triton V1 and V2, the sub-ohm coils for them in the 0.4ohm range even at full open airflow doing direct to lung inhale instead of mouth to lung, about 30 to 40watts was the max to push them. There are a lot of variables, wire mass, air flow efficiency, resistance, wicking speed, wicking matterial all play a factor.

    Best advice, set your airflow to the way you like it for tightness/looseness, set your wattage low, and every few hits bump the wattage up a notch until you hit your sweet spot for flavor and throat hit, get a scorched or scratchy almost dry hit, bump the wattage down a couple notches until smooth flavor returns, that will be the sweet spot for that tank/coil combination.
     

    shannalove

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    Thank you all... There in lies my "sweet spot" wattage issue? Yes, my coils are ALWAYS prepped (new coils, I'll draw through without any battery, wetting the coil lightly on the inside as well and setting over night, as I have several of these tanks).... If I go over maybe 6.5, I'm getting a burnt taste and flying through coils??? Higher wattage, I believe would give me a better taste, I believe, but I just can't get it up there, even after all these years??? I don't understand.... from a 60%-%40 PG/VG to a 30/70 PG/VG (the latter much thicker... and can get the coil to last forever. I'm a dancer, so stat hydrated and use several different tanks, so juice is varied, thus, I'm doing EVERYTHING thought of to avood "vapers tounge". I usually keep the airflow as open as possible, this is what someone long ago told me was best for the coils. I find I like the easy draw with this regardless.... it's the "sweet spot"? Maybe the 60/40 because the juice is much thinner????
    You all really don't think I'll get more flavor going to a sub-ohm set up?
    I am not a "cloud chaser" by any means, this means little to me... It's the flavor that does!
    I'm confident that the 30/70 VG/PG juice would be better with increased wattage. I just don't understand why I can't get there?
    Is subohming the answer? Switching to worth it?
    Thanks Again
     

    IMFire3605

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    The tank/device design attached to your mod plays a big part in that. Thicker juice will mean slower wicking, thus tanks designed for thicker juices have bigger or more juice inlet holes on the coil heads, difference between the Triton Mini coil heads, similar to the Nautilus coil heads, but look at the full sized Triton V1 and its coil heads are larger and have bigger juice inlet holes on them. Sub-ohm tanks can give better flavor due to higher wattage required to run them, but side effect is to run them you have to lower your nic level from what you are used to, less nic per ML in the liquid, more flavor and less of the Nic spoiling that flavor, ie I vape 12mg/ml in my Kayfuns, go to my Subtanks or Crius Tanks I'm at 6mg/ml in those highest, my drippers being even higher wattage I'm down at 2 to 3mg/ml with those. Its in the math, 12mg 1 to 1 ml, Subtanks I'm vaping 2x the liquid 2 to 1 ratio of ML being vaporized 6x2=still 12mg exposure, my drippers I'm almost 4x to 6x hotter, so 4 to 1 or 6 to 1 ratio, 3x4=12, 3x6=18.

    So maybe lowering your Nic level for the hotter tanks might be the burning you are getting, though also remember, tank that needs higher power, some need at least 50watts to run, you'll need a better mod than that istick30w as the istick will not have the power needed to push one.
     

    Haktuspit

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    I wouldn't believe all the hype about VG not ever being able to wick. I've been using max VG for years, in everything including MTL and sub ohms. If you're 50% PG or past there is no way you have a wicking issue consistently on multiple coils. Past 6.5? I probably couldn't even get vapor at 6.5 watts on my Nautilus.

    I'm just gonna ask even though if I'm wrong you'll be offended... Are you sure you didn't accidentally switch to volt mode on your iStick? 6V would definitely give you a burnt taste, 6.5 W I'm not even sure how that would be possible.
     

    shannalove

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    I wouldn't believe all the hype about VG not ever being able to wick. I've been using max VG for years, in everything including MTL and sub ohms. If you're 50% PG or past there is no way you have a wicking issue consistently on multiple coils. Past 6.5? I probably couldn't even get vapor at 6.5 watts on my Nautilus.

    I'm just gonna ask even though if I'm wrong you'll be offended... Are you sure you didn't accidentally switch to volt mode on your iStick? 6V would definitely give you a burnt taste, 6.5 W I'm not even sure how that would be possible.
     

    shannalove

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    No, I'm not at all offended, it takes alot to offend me... But no, there's no confusion there... Trust that YEARS ago, I made that mistake, my hand slipping or something, unintentional, I burned the crap out of my throat and the coil...
    I've dropped my nic level over the years to 6mg or under, so the flavor shouldn't be affected...
    Thank you for letting me know that above 8-10 watts with this set up isn't completely abnormal... I'd still like a more clean, sweet or stronger flavor.
    Thank you for passing on the knowledge.
    I've been really considering the Subbox Nano, the added cost has kept me with this set up...????
     

    Haktuspit

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    I'm really confused by what's going on with your current setup then. Starting to question whether your device is still working properly, you say it's years old?

    If you're still looking for a Sub Ohm kit that one I linked for $40 is still available. I'm not sure that sub ohm is the answer to your problem but a new setup might be and it's the next logical step forward anyways.
     

    Gramdogg

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    Your Triton has 0.4 Ohm recommended at 25-30W, should be able to run that fine. Any single 0.5 Ohm Kanthal coils should be fine. I don't find there is any way to get more flavour other then better juice or an RDA. Doe's your local shop offer added flavour shots? Airflow produces clouds but it also kills flavour. The Triton can run Vaporesso C Cell ceramic coils as well, people say they have the best flavour if you want to try that. 0.9ohm Kanthal VW (20 - 35W) 0.5ohm SS316 VW (20 - 40W)
     

    Rudeboy615

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    Do you lung inhale or like an airy mouth to lung? I ask this because with mouth to lung your choices are going to be more limited, specially finding pre made coils, and you will probably want to stay at 1 ohm and above otherwise the vapor will probably be to warm. Would you want to build your own coils? I also have the Triton mini and with most of my juices I can only use about 15ml of liquid max before having to change coils. Also the darker juices will ruin the coil faster. With the burning coil it could either be a bad coil or maybe not enough liquid being sucked in since you keep the draw airy. You could try closing the airflow some and see if it helps pull more liquid in the coil. The two coils that came with my Triton mini tasted off and when I bought a Kayfun clone the flavor was perfect.
     

    mcclintock

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    Interesting, I thought I was the only one. Sometimes I wonder if others are immune to burning taste. But with open airflow, my technique is so inconsistent it's amazing anything works OK other than Temperature Control.

    It's not the airflow setting, it's how much air you actually pull through. Full lung hits on a big inefficient device can easily hit 60 watts, but true restricted MTL doesn't make it much past 10 watts. On my RDA (fairly big Doge clone) I have loose airflow only relative to how I hit it, learned to enjoy not having to pull hard, and always end up at 14.2 watts with almost any coil I throw at it, because my airflow and technique doesn't change. I also enjoy single-coil EVODs at 5.2 watts, more flavor but not as clean tasting. Every RTA I try so far ends up burning above 10 watts, and the Melo 3 takes 25 watts or so just to get going and still burns if I don't modify technique (I'm not using it).
     
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