Subtank Nano Newbie Questions

[PansyRabbit]

Hello, I apologize in advance for my ignorance. I'm learning more here everyday, but it's a slow process as I'm old.

I just purchased the Kanger Subtank Nano. I'm using it with the istick 30W if that matters. Anyway, I'm a little confused by the different coils that came with it.

According to this: Kanger SUBTANK-NANO clearomizer – KangerTech there are two different sized coils. My store put the 1.2 Ohm coil in when they set it up for me. Could you tell me approximately how long that coil will last? And when I do need to replace it, should I just switch to the other coil (the .5 Ohm one)?

And still more questions...Is it imperative for the device that I use the wattage that is listed on the product page on the link above? Does the device automatically keep me within the recommended range, or do I need to be careful not to go above or below the wattages the site lists?

I don't know a thing about SubOhming and it's not really a goal of mine...if I just need to replace the 1.2 coil with another identical coil, I'm fine with that.

Thanks for any advice. I'm really smart about a lot of things, but this is apparently not one of them!

 

[sd3614]

You can pretty much keep your istick set at 25-30 watts and the coil that was installed on the tank is the .5 ohm which is perfect. The spare coils you can see the writing on the side telling you which one they are. When you put in the 1.2 coil later you will probably find 20-25 watts to be the best range. As far as how long each coil last depends on use, but if you didn't burn one up starting off you would probably get 2 weeks, maybe 3. I have put 2 30ML bottles through one without issue.

If you just want to consign yourself the the best vaping at all times you can swap a coil a week, but I would not toss them. You will figure out later on they probably were fine and had more life.

 

[PansyRabbit]

You can pretty much keep your istick set at 25-30 watts and the coil that was installed on the tank is the .5 ohm which is perfect. The spare coils you can see the writing on the side telling you which one they are. When you put in the 1.2 coil later you will probably find 20-25 watts to be the best range.

Actually, the store put on the 1.2 coil...the .5 is still in the box. So do I have to stick within the recommended range of 12-25 watts, which is what the Kanger site says? Or would it be better to switch to the .5 coil?

 

[zoiDman]

Actually, the store put on the 1.2 coil...the .5 is still in the box. So do I have to stick within the recommended range of 12-25 watts, which is what the Kanger site says? Or would it be better to switch to the .5 coil?

I think the Best thing is for you to Try Both the .5 Ohm and the 1.2 Ohm and see which one you like Better.

Some people prefer the .5's. Some like the 1.2's better. There's no real Right or Wrong.

Just what a Person likes Best with their e-Liquids. And the Type of Hit they like.

 

[zoiDman]

...

And still more questions...Is it imperative for the device that I use the wattage that is listed on the product page on the link above? Does the device automatically keep me within the recommended range, or do I need to be careful not to go above or below the wattages the site lists?

...

The Wattage Range is merely a Suggestion.

With any New type of Atomizer and or Coil, I would suggest that you start at a Low Wattage (maybe 10W) and then work you way up .5W at a Time.

You'll now when to Stop Increasing the Watts. Because the Hit will start to taste Burnt. I run 1.2 Ohm Heads at about 12.5 ~ 14 Watts. But I like a Cooler hit than most.

 

[PansyRabbit]

The Wattage Range is merely a Suggestion.

With any New type of Atomizer and or Coil, I would suggest that you start at a Low Wattage (maybe 10W) and then work you way up .5W at a Time.

You'll now when to Stop Increasing the Watts. Because the Hit will start to taste Burnt. I run 1.2 Ohm Heads at about 12.5 ~ 14 Watts. But I like a Cooler hit than most.

Yes, that's exactly what I was running into...when I run it at the Wattage it said to in the paperwork, it feels too hot to me. I think I like it cooler as well. Glad to know that I'm not going to break it or something! Thank you.

 

[sd3614]

All things said are true. Every juice will be different on wattage. Both coils are good, one just has more resistance so wattage will be a tad different. The 1.2 coil may deliver a slightly cooler vape, but not by much.

You should start every new coil out low and work it up over a few minutes. Let it have time to wick (soak). A dry hit does not mean it is fried either.

 

[PansyRabbit]

All things said are true. Every juice will be different on wattage. Both coils are good, one just has more resistance so wattage will be a tad different. The 1.2 coil may deliver a slightly cooler vape, but not by much.

You should start every new coil out low and work it up over a few minutes. Let it have time to wick (soak). A dry hit does not mean it is fried either.

Thank you, and thanks also to everyone for the advice and information. I appreciate it!

 

[WilsonPhillips]

One other thing that was not mentioned. Switching to the .5 ohm coil will decrease your battery life, because it does use more wattage.

 

[DingerCPA]

PansyRabbit - Welcome.... My experience with the Kanger Subtank Nano is that *YOU* determine what the appropriate power level is because it's based on how good it tastes to *YOU*.

That being said, I typically start a brand new coil relatively low (the 0.5Ω around 12W or the 1.2Ω around 10W) and work my way up to where *MY* preferred vape level is. Just because a device "says" you can hit it at 30W DOESN'T MEAN THAT YOU HAVE TO.

You *MUST* make sure that the coil is well primed - before you install it in the tank, put a few drops of juice on top of the coil and on each of the inlet ports. Watch to make sure the liquid is absorbed. Then, once all the pieces are reassembled with a full tank of juice, give a couple of gentle - UNFIRED - puffs to help pull a bit more juice into the wick.

Then, at a LOWER setting, start taking a few hits. Work your way up to whatever is best for *YOU*. You probably don't want to hit the coil at 25W the first time you fire it. Your juice and your preferences will help you decide where a good range for you is. I almost never run my 1.2Ω coil above 20W or my 0.5Ω coil above 22. I have plenty of watts, I just don't like how it tastes to *ME* when I do that.

You will know to change coils when it becomes more difficult to get a good draw or the flavor has become "bleh". When you refill your tank, take a look down in top of the coil. If it looks "gunky", that might be a good indication that it's time to change.

 

[KenD]

One other thing that was not mentioned. Switching to the .5 ohm coil will decrease your battery life, because it does use more wattage.

Only if the watts are set higher. Otherwise the battery life should be identical.

 

[zoiDman]

One other thing that was not mentioned. Switching to the .5 ohm coil will decrease your battery life, because it does use more wattage.

How so?

 

[Signmaker]

One other thing that was not mentioned. Switching to the .5 ohm coil will decrease your battery life, because it does use more wattage.

This is untrue, it's actually the opposite, as a lower resistance coil can be fired from a more deeply drained battery than a higher resistance coil. The difference might be a puff or two over the life of the charge cycle...but sometimes that last puff is the lifesaver

 

[KenD]

This is untrue, it's actually the opposite, as a lower resistance coil can be fired from a more deeply drained battery than a higher resistance coil. The difference might be a puff or two over the life of the charge cycle...but sometimes that last puff is the lifesaver

Sorry, but how is that? With a vw device resistance doesn't matter (as long as within the capabilities of the mod).

 

[WilsonPhillips]

So, you guys are saying that Ohm's Law doesn't matter anymore?

 

[KenD]

So, you guys are saying that Ohm's Law doesn't matter anymore?

On vw devices, not so much. Resistance doesn't matter, only the wattage and the battery charge level. Check steam-engine

 

[WilsonPhillips]

I will respectfully agree to disagree.

 

[KenD]

I will respectfully agree to disagree.

You may disagree, but that doesn't make a difference. Go to steam-engine.org, choose the battery drain section, check the "regulated (APV)" and "power regulation (vw)" boxes. You'll see that at a set wattage it doesn't matter at all what the resistance of the coil is. 0.2 or 5 ohms, doesn't make a difference at the battery side of things. However, changing the battery voltage changes the current draw. In contrast to mech mods, a lowering battery charge increases the amp draw (the battery is worked harder to provide the same watts). Ohms law does apply at the atomizer side of things, but not at the battery.

 

[zoiDman]

So, you guys are saying that Ohm's Law doesn't matter anymore?

Last I Checked, it was Alive and well.

But does having a Boost/Buck type of Circuitry between the Battery and the Atomizer Coil effect the Dynamics of Mr. Ohms's Law?