Subtank RBA builds? show em!

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tehmidcap

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Mar 13, 2015
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I've definitely got my wicking down to a science now, just took a bit of browsing this thread and personal trial and error.

Now... I'm comfortable with building single coils, and have experimented a bit with different spacing as well as different ohms, now I'm just in the process of the exact fine tuning to find what I like. After getting my wick right I twisted up some of my 28 gauge wire... I thought I loved it at first, but just a day or two ago I went back to a regular single coil build (instead of using my 28 gauge I just took one of the pre-twisted wires and put one extra twist in it... And I realized that the twisted kanthal seems to burn a little too hot for my liking (when compared to a single coil build of the same resistance). I think my next step is to play around with some different gauge wire to see what I prefer.

Does the thickness of the wire play a difference with heat as Steam-Engine.com seems to suggest when playing with the calculator? Like let's say I have a build using 28 gauge that comes out to .6 resistance and a build using 24 gauge that comes out to .6 resistance -- obviously the latter will need to be larger in wraps and/or diameter but will it actually burn cooler?

Also, out of curiosity and for the sake of accuracy, what is the diameter of the little blue scewdriver? What gauge is the wire of the pre-wrapped .5ohm coils that come with the rba?
 

evan le'garde

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Since i've had my Subtank Mini everytime the tank gets empty the entire Subtank gets dismantled, cleaned, RBA re-coiled and wicked. And to be completely honest i haven't had a dry hit, not one !. I'm using 26 gauge kanthal with 5 wraps with a 2.5mm inner diameter = 0.7ohm. D.I.Y juice which is 85% VG (aqueous),the rest is Capella concentrate. Loving Apple pie + Vanilla Custard. Great vapour and taste. Using a spare RBA deck for when the tank runs dry, i'll take the old one out and replace it with the spare, then re-build the one that came out for next time. Kanthal wire is cheap enough so why not !?. Got enough organic cotton and wire to last for years.

Don't get me wrong. I can respect and appreciate what you guys are doing with your twisted wire :thumbs:, and love looking at your pictures. It does seem like a lot of work though. I just want to keep it simple and spend as little time i can re-building these things. That may sound like a contradiction, and it is, but i'll do anything to avoid getting one single dry hit, so for me it's worth the regular maintenance. :):thumb:
 
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Psofos

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Since i've had my Subtank Mini everytime the tank gets empty the entire Subtank gets dismantled, cleaned, RBA re-coiled and wicked. And to be completely honest i haven't had a dry hit, not one !. I'm using 26 gauge kanthal with 5 wraps with a 2.5mm inner diameter = 0.7ohm. D.I.Y juice which is 85% VG (aqueous),the rest is Capella concentrate. Loving Apple pie + Vanilla Custard. Great vapour and taste. Using a spare RBA deck for when the tank runs dry, i'll take the old one out and replace it with the spare, then re-build the one that came out for next time. Kanthal wire is cheap enough so why not !?. Got enough organic cotton and wire to last for years.

Don't get me wrong. I can respect and appreciate what you guys are doing with your twisted wire :thumbs:, and love looking at your pictures. It does seem like a lot of work though. I just want to keep it simple and spend as little time i can re-building these things. That may sound like a contradiction, and it is, but i'll do anything to avoid getting one single dry hit, so for me it's worth the regular maintenance. :):thumb:
I did my first twisted coil yesterday. 2 strands of 28g took me 1 minute to twist. Mostly i did it just for fun.Taste was heavier but i thought it was my excitement taking over my taste buds. Put my occ coil 0.5 ohm today to use it so i can open it and try to rebuild it. (would hate to destroy a non used coil). Taste seems so much muted over the twisted. My advice is twist a foot of 28g or 26g and check it out. Much easier and faster than it sounds. You don't know what you're missing.
 
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Psofos

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First clapton today. 30 over 26. 4/5 wraps 2.4 id 0.6 ohms. Too long heating time for me,maybe with 32 outside it would be better. Back to my parallel 28 it is.
WP_20150502_004.jpg
 
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UncleMike

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Feb 15, 2015
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Today I stepped outside my comfort zone of building single coils. I just built my first dual parallel coil. 28 gauge with 2.5mm ID with 6/5 wraps brought me to .53ohms. Took a bit to get it fitted under the screws and evenly on the deck over the airflow hole but patience is a virtue. Gave it a good wick, filled my tank and took my first puff. Wow, why did I wait so long lol. Holy the taste is amazing, almost too much actually. Only using 11 watts so far and I'm getting as much or more vapor then the stock .5 OCC coil. Oh ya, and so far no dry hits at all :D
 

Robert Dean

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May 10, 2015
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Old Vaper, new to building. I've been lurking this thread for a while. Learned a lot. But, I was wondering if you'd help me out once again. About to get some more kanthal to start building on my STP. What kind of build will give me the most vapor production, and flavor, without getting a hot Vape? I have a decent build in my Troll RDA, just a dual coil set up, 4 wraps each of 26awg. 2.4ID. Comes out to .27. What can I do to get more vapor though? Do I need to build lower? Or is there a way to build a higher resistance and still put out tons of vapor?
 

USMCotaku

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Old Vaper, new to building. I've been lurking this thread for a while. Learned a lot. But, I was wondering if you'd help me out once again. About to get some more kanthal to start building on my STP. What kind of build will give me the most vapor production, and flavor, without getting a hot Vape? I have a decent build in my Troll RDA, just a dual coil set up, 4 wraps each of 26awg. 2.4ID. Comes out to .27. What can I do to get more vapor though? Do I need to build lower? Or is there a way to build a higher resistance and still put out tons of vapor?
Are you on a mech or regulated mod?
On a regulated, I've found can get more (but cooler) vape at same wattages using a smaller gauge wire with higher resistance/more wraps.... Gives much more coil surface area to vaporize the juice....on a mech you could try switching to 24 gauge dual coil 6 wraps each... Should get you in the .3-.4 range depending on ID, and net you more vapor
 

Robert Dean

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May 10, 2015
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Are you on a mech or regulated mod?
On a regulated, I've found can get more (but cooler) vape at same wattages using a smaller gauge wire with higher resistance/more wraps.... Gives much more coil surface area to vaporize the juice....on a mech you could try switching to 24 gauge dual coil 6 wraps each... Should get you in the .3-.4 range depending on ID, and net you more vapor
Sigelei 150. So, higher res, but more surface area will produce the Vape I want? Because if I can't build a 1.2 ohm that will output like my RDA (exaggeration) then that would be awesome.
 

USMCotaku

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Sigelei 150. So, higher res, but more surface area will produce the Vape I want? Because if I can't build a 1.2 ohm that will output like my RDA (exaggeration) then that would be awesome.
Yes you can get the volume of vape on a higher res coil on that mod (assuming its wicked well, good airflow) but there will be a difference in temperature. For example, I have a dual sleeper coil on my old nimbus RDA using 32 gauge kanthal, 12 wraps per coil for 1.1 ohms, sitting on an istick 20w.....it puts out vape like a .5 ohm dual coil on my mech
 

Robert Dean

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Yes you can get the volume of vape on a higher res coil on that mod (assuming its wicked well, good airflow) but there will be a difference in temperature. For example, I have a dual sleeper coil on my old nimbus RDA using 32 gauge kanthal, 12 wraps per coil for 1.1 ohms, sitting on an istick 20w.....it puts out vape like a .5 ohm dual coil on my mech
Ok. So, which will produce a cooler vapor? Lower, or higher res?
 

Robert Dean

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May 10, 2015
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Addendum.... I'm not familiar with the stp so I don't know what the airflow is like, build deck etc. Is it an RDA or an RTA?
Sent with one hand, the other is busy vaping.
The SubTank Plus uses the exact same RBA deck as the mini. Just as airy if not better than the mini. I'm just not used to working with a deck this small, and so I need to sharpen my knowledge about building. Before now, I could get by with "Lower resistance means bigger clouds, right?" Haha. Not really an option now. The only way to build a .2 on the mini RBA (that I understand) is with like 22awg. But, I don't know wanna resort to that. I'd like to figure out how to build right, rather than forcing the square blocks into the round holes so to speak.
 
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