successfully rebuilding protanks without non resistive wire. a myth???

[Dampmaskin]

one thing is to make sure the heat is concentrated at the coil instead of the legs. micro coils definitely help in this respect.

I believe this is the key. I make 12 wrap 1.3 mm (inner diameter) micro coils with 30 AGW kanthal for my PTs, and I can even dry burn them (very carefully) without burning the grommet.

 

[Benzin]

Thanks for the tips guys!
Ill give it another try, This time using microcoils soon.
Just received vapemail with a lot of kanthal & wick

 

[Nikkita6]

I have rebuilt no less than 20 Kanger coils, and I never had an issue with burning grommets, and I do not use non resistance wire .. 32 gauge Kanthal and a 8 wrap micro coil. Also never received a bad batch of Kanger replacement coils, but I also haven't purchased any since October last year, and still have a brand new unopened pack too.

 

[CShaver]

I'm vaping on a microcoil in my Protank Mini 2 as I'm writing this post.

I used 28 gauge Kanthal, on a 5/64 drill bit. It's measuring 1.2 ohms.

When I vape it, it's either on 11 watts or 4.3 volts. No burnt hits.

 

[SpookyDriver]

I'm vaping on a microcoil in my Protank Mini 2 as I'm writing this post.

I used 28 gauge Kanthal, on a 5/64 drill bit. It's measuring 1.2 ohms.

When I vape it, it's either on 11 watts or 4.3 volts. No burnt hits.

Exactly the same here. No issues with the grommets.

Oddly, my Provari measured them at 1.5ohms. My multi-meter, bench scope and MVP2 measure them at 1.2ohms. It's the only build that the Provari measured at a different resistance than the other meters and I never could figure out why. Sold the Provari, so I guess it's a moot point now.

 

[Dampmaskin]

AFAIU, both nichrome and kanthal have a positive temperature coefficient for resistance (meaning that the resistance rises as the temperature rises). The ProVari measures resistance under load. I'm not sure if this is sufficient to explain the difference, but possibly?

 

[SpookyDriver]

I don't think that's the case since all my other builds measured the same on all the devices. Only the Protank rebuilds showed a discrepancy.

As an electrical engineer, the issue intruigued me, but not enough to start disassembling mods.

 

[Benzin]

Success!!!

Today i had a little time (and patience) to fiddle with the protanks. And following the great advice from you guys, i decided to try...


Microcoils!
28g kanthal, about 10 wraps??? (sorry, i forgot the count ). Resistance is 1.6 ohms.

Did i get it right? im not too experienced with microcoils or cotton. If anyone sees an obvious mistake on my part with this build, i would really appreciate your input!






So after puting the whole thing together, i filled my PT mini, put my vtr to 9w (1w more than usual, figured if its gonna taste like burnt rubber, might as well hurry up! hehe), and started vaping.




Several hours (and 1 1/2 tanks) later, no burnt rubber taste!
It certainly performs a LOT better that the POS factory heads. No burnt undertones, no dry hits, no gurggling.
Does it (imho) taste as good as my RDAs? not by far!. Flavor is about 40% muted compared to the RDAs. But still gives a lot more flavor than the factory ones.

If i may bother you guys with one more question.
¿how long does the cotton last, and when it needs to be changed, is it possible to change it inplace, without having to take out or rebuild the coil?

Thanks for your all your patience & advice guys!

I almost forgot. Just for the sake of clarity:
Some folks told me that the factory heads are not built using non resistive wire. That they are all nichrome.
This is the factory coil that i took out of the new head i used for the build.



You can clearly see the soldering points between the non resistive wire and the coil.
They are built using non resistive wire
cheers!

 

[denali_41]

when i was using them i did 3 1\2 wraps with 32ga kanthal and 2mm ekowool @1.8 ohms

eazy peazy and no burnt anything