Suggest a build

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State O' Flux

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So... you have 60-75 watts to work with. That means, with the right wire, you can go down to around 0.3Ω or slightly less.

Do you have an accurate Ohm meter/build box? Not resolution, but accuracy can be critical as you dip down below 0.25Ω or so.
0.05Ω off to the low side and the amperage requirements increase rapidly. It's not a too serious concern with a PV that has a low resistance baby sitter... more so if you were using a unregulated mech.

That low resistance baby sitter is why I'm going to offer some suggestions... if you were a mech user, I'd tell you nothing, because you probably don't know much about Ohm's law and battery safety. Not a dig... just that you wouldn't be asking such basic questions if you did.

I'll use 60 watts, because that's guaranteed... above that, I don't know. There are literally hundreds of possible builds within the following range... each with slightly different variables. This is just one. Builds are best fine tuned for the individual user, atomizer air flow potential, wick type and juice blend being used.

24 gauge Kanthal A-1, dual parallel coils at 0.30Ω net resistance. This would be 7/6 wraps on a 7/64" (2.78mm) mandrel, with an estimated 5mm per coil of net leg length. Performance specs are:
  • Coil surface area, per coil - 127.86 mm². Good combination for flavor and vapor density, in a "mini" RDA.
  • Coil radiant heat (at 60 watts) - 221 mW/mm². More than adequate... a bit warm for some, but certainly not hot.
  • Heat capacity, per coil 56.65 mJ/K. "Time to temperature" - not instant, but quick enough that you won't grow a beard waiting for it.
  • Leg power loss - 5.9 %. Acceptable.
Fit cotton wicking to be low density/compression, and a "slight drag" pulled through the coil.
Fine tune, per this Steam Engine build sheet, as needed to increase/decrease variable values. Read the article found at the end of the first hyperlink sigline below... for a better understanding of performance variables.
 

shane stafford

Full Member
Jun 29, 2015
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So... you have 60-75 watts to work with. That means, with the right wire, you can go down to around 0.3Ω or slightly less.

Do you have an accurate Ohm meter/build box? Not resolution, but accuracy can be critical as you dip down below 0.25Ω or so.
0.05Ω off to the low side and the amperage requirements increase rapidly. It's not a too serious concern with a PV that has a low resistance baby sitter... more so if you were using a unregulated mech.

That low resistance baby sitter is why I'm going to offer some suggestions... if you were a mech user, I'd tell you nothing, because you probably don't know much about Ohm's law and battery safety. Not a dig... just that you wouldn't be asking such basic questions if you did.

I'll use 60 watts, because that's guaranteed... above that, I don't know. There are literally hundreds of possible builds within the following range... each with slightly different variables. This is just one. Builds are best fine tuned for the individual user, atomizer air flow potential, wick type and juice blend being used.

24 gauge Kanthal A-1, dual parallel coils at 0.30Ω net resistance. This would be 7/6 wraps on a 7/64" (2.78mm) mandrel, with an estimated 5mm per coil of net leg length. Performance specs are:
  • Coil surface area, per coil - 127.86 mm². Good combination for flavor and vapor density, in a "mini" RDA.
  • Coil radiant heat (at 60 watts) - 221 mW/mm². More than adequate... a bit warm for some, but certainly not hot.
  • Heat capacity, per coil 56.65 mJ/K. "Time to temperature" - not instant, but quick enough that you won't grow a beard waiting for it.
  • Leg power loss - 5.9 %. Acceptable.
Fit cotton wicking to be low density/compression, and a "slight drag" pulled through the coil.
Fine tune, per this Steam Engine build sheet, as needed to increase/decrease variable values. Read the article found at the end of the first hyperlink sigline below... for a better understanding of performance variables.

Thanks for the reply! I do actually know a lot about ohms law, and battery safety, being that I am primarily a mech user. I have an ohm reader, from USA Ohm readers, and I believe it is one of the more accurate readers on the market (for the price) Using mech mods, I like to stay around .1 ohms, due to my love for clouds lol :) Anyway, I know my question was very basic, but that's because I'm open to pretty much any build. I'm also open to advanced builds.
 

shane stafford

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Jun 29, 2015
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I suggest a dual 26g/34 or 36g Clapton. 34&36g are so thin that you won't have any problem fitting it into a derringer. Are you using nichrome or kanthal?
Thank you! I'm using kanthal. I usually only use 32 over my claptons, and I've been able to fit them in my derringer but it's not easy. I'll definitely have to try 36g. Also, I've been looking into working with nichrome, but I'm not sure where to start. Could you give me some advice for nichrome builds. Thanks again :)
 

Tom Forde

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Mar 16, 2015
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Thank you! I'm using kanthal. I usually only use 32 over my claptons, and I've been able to fit them in my derringer but it's not easy. I'll definitely have to try 36g. Also, I've been looking into working with nichrome, but I'm not sure where to start. Could you give me some advice for nichrome builds. Thanks again :)
Nichrome is a softer metal, easier to manipulate for me, gauges are the same sizes, but the ramp time is quicker and resistances are lower per gauge than kanthal. Like 26g kanthal is 2.04ohms/ft & 26g Nichrome series 80 (N80) is 1.64ohms/foot. Then there's N60, which is just a different blend of Nichrome, with a different heat flux & resistance than N80. I don't know the exact specs on it but I do know the amount of nickel chromium in the wire is different.
Edit: 36g compared to 32g is way smaller. 32g will feel closer to 30 when you're working with 36!
 

shane stafford

Full Member
Jun 29, 2015
32
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Nichrome is a softer metal, easier to manipulate for me, gauges are the same sizes, but the ramp time is quicker and resistances are lower per gauge than kanthal. Like 26g kanthal is 2.04ohms/ft & 26g Nichrome series 80 (N80) is 1.64ohms/foot. Then there's N60, which is just a different blend of Nichrome, with a different heat flux & resistance than N80. I don't know the exact specs on it but I do know the amount of nickel chromium in the wire is different.
Edit: 36g compared to 32g is way smaller. 32g will feel closer to 30 when you're working with 36!
hmmm, I'll have to try it out! Easier to work with, and lower ohms sound like a win-win. Thanks again for the info :)
 

Tom Forde

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Mar 16, 2015
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hmmm, I'll have to try it out! Easier to work with, and lower ohms sound like a win-win. Thanks again for the info :)
No problem, just make sure to be safe with your builds. An ohm meter is definitely necessary (onboard your IPV will work), and use 30A CDR batteries. Since you're building in a derringer, here are some old builds I've had in my derringer, with no problem fitting them
image.jpg
fused 26g N80 wrapped in .5x.1 ribbon claptons
image.jpg

Loosely twisted 26g 1 strand kanthal 1 strand N80. It is possible to fit some pretty cool builds into a derringer as long as you keep everything small. On the twisted build, it was a little hard to clip the leads on the second coil but if there's a will there's a way. You can fit single claptons in it easy!
 

shane stafford

Full Member
Jun 29, 2015
32
6
No problem, just make sure to be safe with your builds. An ohm meter is definitely necessary (onboard your IPV will work), and use 30A CDR batteries. Since you're building in a derringer, here are some old builds I've had in my derringer, with no problem fitting them View attachment 472346fused 26g N80 wrapped in .5x.1 ribbon claptons
View attachment 472348
Loosely twisted 26g 1 strand kanthal 1 strand N80. It is possible to fit some pretty cool builds into a derringer as long as you keep everything small. On the twisted build, it was a little hard to clip the leads on the second coil but if there's a will there's a way. You can fit single claptons in it easy!
I have an ohm reader, and I use Sony vtc 4/5 30A battery's, so I practice safe building ;) also, thanks for the suggestions, both look beautiful and fun to build. Thanks again :D
 

Tom Forde

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Mar 16, 2015
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I have an ohm reader, and I use Sony vtc 4/5 30A battery's, so I practice safe building ;) also, thanks for the suggestions, both look beautiful and fun to build. Thanks again :D
I just happened to put a new build on it....it's a dual 3 strand 30g fused Clapton wrapped with 34g. One of the core wires twisted up on me, but I didn't bother to untwist the wire before installing it. 8 wraps around a 2.5mm bit. I'm shocked what I can fit inside this tiny atty.
image.jpg
image.jpg
 
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