Super low ohm build advice
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You'll probably have to mention the batteries and hardware your using, and demonstrate you have a thorough understanding of safety and Ohms law and before anyone on this forum will give you advise on building super low-ohm builds.
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My mods are listed in my sig. I have Sony VTC4 and HG LE 2 batteries. I fully understand OHMs law and safety. I under stand that above all safety first. I'm planning on using it in my Sigeli 150.
wether you use a 0.1Ω build or a 2Ω you can still use your 150w 
, i would only go low ohms if using a mechanical to set your watts to where you want them.
Dual 4 open wraps on a 3/32 is a good start and use whatever wire that helps you achieve this, and if you havent got the right gauge then you can just double, triple or quad etc twist your 28gauge. keep the coils high and clear of wick underneath and behind for air to reach all areas and you should be good.
calculator>> Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
a good vid to watch on wicking hot builds, it keeps plenty of juice hitting the coils>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1hqRp9TDDE
, i would only go low ohms if using a mechanical to set your watts to where you want them.Dual 4 open wraps on a 3/32 is a good start and use whatever wire that helps you achieve this, and if you havent got the right gauge then you can just double, triple or quad etc twist your 28gauge. keep the coils high and clear of wick underneath and behind for air to reach all areas and you should be good.
calculator>> Steam Engine | free vaping calculators
a good vid to watch on wicking hot builds, it keeps plenty of juice hitting the coils>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M1hqRp9TDDE
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Ok, well seeing as your going to be using it on a regulated device and not a mech its going to perfectly safe to go super low because the resistance doesn't come into play on a regulated device (a well respected member pointed this out to me, I checked it out on steam engine and he was right of course.)
I use the Kuro Koiler for my builds now, all these are around the #2 screw. I know you may not have the wire for all these currently I am just posting all the builds I use for CRAZY cloud chasing times so you can have a bunch of ideas
This is REALLY simple: 5 wraps, dual coil, 22gauge N80. It comes out at .1
I do a quad coil setup in my Stillare with 26gauge kanthal. I do five wraps each coil and it comes out at .15 ohms
I do another quad coil setup in my Mutation X with 24gauge kanthal, I do seven wraps per coil and it reads .1 ohm
Twisted 24/22gauge vertical coil, 5 wraps, .16 ohm
I do a 24gauge dual coil with 7 wraps per coil and it comes in at .18 ohms
Three strands (kanthal) 26gauge twisted parallel coil with five wraps .19 ohms
That should get you started with some super low ohm builds. I wouldn't put these on a mech, you should stay at .2 or above in a mech. Just my humble opinion. Some of the above builds will provide insane clouds, some will provide less clouds and more flavor. I just looked quickly in my book and went to the .1-.2 ohm page. I have at one point or another ran all these builds. The last one is actually one I am currently using in my Infinite CLT I purchased this morn. Tons of clouds and good flavor to boot. Have fun my friend and stay safe, if you want more PM me and I can give you another probably twenty builds to try.
I use the Kuro Koiler for my builds now, all these are around the #2 screw. I know you may not have the wire for all these currently I am just posting all the builds I use for CRAZY cloud chasing times so you can have a bunch of ideas
This is REALLY simple: 5 wraps, dual coil, 22gauge N80. It comes out at .1
I do a quad coil setup in my Stillare with 26gauge kanthal. I do five wraps each coil and it comes out at .15 ohms
I do another quad coil setup in my Mutation X with 24gauge kanthal, I do seven wraps per coil and it reads .1 ohm
Twisted 24/22gauge vertical coil, 5 wraps, .16 ohm
I do a 24gauge dual coil with 7 wraps per coil and it comes in at .18 ohms
Three strands (kanthal) 26gauge twisted parallel coil with five wraps .19 ohms
That should get you started with some super low ohm builds. I wouldn't put these on a mech, you should stay at .2 or above in a mech. Just my humble opinion. Some of the above builds will provide insane clouds, some will provide less clouds and more flavor. I just looked quickly in my book and went to the .1-.2 ohm page. I have at one point or another ran all these builds. The last one is actually one I am currently using in my Infinite CLT I purchased this morn. Tons of clouds and good flavor to boot. Have fun my friend and stay safe, if you want more PM me and I can give you another probably twenty builds to try.
Here's some advice:
Not true with a regulated DUAL BATTERY device like a IPV or Sig box. I found this out a little while ago from a very smart member on here and apparently the resitance of the coil ONLY comes into play with mech. I checked it out on steam engine like he advised I do and sure enough it seemed as if he was right. It makes logical sense to me cause the cells would be shareing the loads.
I don't know about regulated devices cause I didn't use em but most will not fire deci ohm builds. Not sure about these newer regulated devices though but you are correct - when your chip can push 50 or higher watts, what would be the point of a low resistance build. Low resistance builds are for mech mods where the vaper wants to vape at a higher wattage.
But building / recommending builds as low as you mention is, shall I say - not the most sound practice / advice to give anyone.
Vapers need to know what their battery (s) are capable of and build well within the maximum continuous discharge rating of the battery.
Pulse ratings should mean nothing to a vaper. Why? Because if your mod accidentally fires in your pocket for longer than a "pulse" you will find out first hand how a vented battery (or in your case batteries) feels when it's melting your family jewels
When I'm super subohming it depends on what I'm building it in. If it's something big like my Cerberus I go with more coils as this tends to keep the heat under control better as well as more wicking to feed that juice guzzler. If it's something narrower like the Doge V2 or Dark Horse you kind of have to go the twisted route. Simply cranking up the wattage on the Sigelei doesn't magically increase your surface area being heated so you're going to get hotter vapor and muted flavor. This is where temp control and nickel setups that are starting to surface now are going to give us a "set it and forget it" ability. I just feel the tech has a little more maturing to do before it's mainstream.
@ SuperX. He already stated he's using a Sigelei 150 and VTC4s/HE2s. Well within their safe operating ranges and FAR safer than attempting this on a mech. The Sigelei can handle 0.1 ohm easily with quality batteries, which he has. It also has short, undervolt, and reverse polarity protection, which no mech has. With all due respect, your own statement of "I don't know about regulated devices cause I didn't use em" should make you think maybe you should research what his hardware is before throwing a huge amp table in his face and waggling your finger at Toronto for helping someone that took safety into account before attempting a super subohm build. Ironically shunning Toronto about battery safety is like preaching to the choir.
@ SuperX. He already stated he's using a Sigelei 150 and VTC4s/HE2s. Well within their safe operating ranges and FAR safer than attempting this on a mech. The Sigelei can handle 0.1 ohm easily with quality batteries, which he has. It also has short, undervolt, and reverse polarity protection, which no mech has. With all due respect, your own statement of "I don't know about regulated devices cause I didn't use em" should make you think maybe you should research what his hardware is before throwing a huge amp table in his face and waggling your finger at Toronto for helping someone that took safety into account before attempting a super subohm build. Ironically shunning Toronto about battery safety is like preaching to the choir.
When I'm super subohming it depends on what I'm building it in. If it's something big like my Cerberus I go with more coils as this tends to keep the heat under control better as well as more wicking to feed that juice guzzler. If it's something narrower like the Doge V2 or Dark Horse you kind of have to go the twisted route. Simply cranking up the wattage on the Sigelei doesn't magically increase your surface area being heated so you're going to get hotter vapor and muted flavor. This is where temp control and nickel setups that are starting to surface now are going to give us a "set it and forget it" ability. I just feel the tech has a little more maturing to do before it's mainstream.
@ SuperX. He already stated he's using a Sigelei 150 and VTC4s/HE2s. Well within their safe operating ranges and FAR safer than attempting this on a mech. The Sigelei can handle 0.1 ohm easily with quality batteries, which he has. It also has short, undervolt, and reverse polarity protection, which no mech has. With all due respect, your own statement of "I don't know about regulated devices cause I didn't use em" should make you think maybe you should research what his hardware is before throwing a huge amp table in his face and waggling your finger at Toronto for helping someone that took safety into account before attempting a super subohm build. Ironically shunning Toronto about battery safety is like preaching to the choir.
I hear ya bro. I just cringe when I hear people talking about building basically a hard short and 0.1 ohms is nearly that. It seems foolish to me regardless of the hardware. But that's just me.
And yes you are correct- I am not at all up on these chipped mods so I will just dip outta here and let those that may be continue the discussion
Peace
The beauty of a high vv/vw mod is that you don't have to build low sub-ohm coils to get a great vape. In fact, building low sub-ohm works against you. Higher ohm coils use more wire which means more surface area to vaporize juice. This increases both heat and vapor production.
With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.
Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
Also check out State-O-Flux's blog on the "Steam Engine": Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features
With a mechanical mod you increase the warmth of your coil by building lower ohm coils. However, the electronics in a regulated mod boosts the power coming from the battery so the ohms of the coil no longer control the warmth.
Here's a good thread on the subject: My thoughts about sub-ohm and latest VV/VW devices...
Also check out State-O-Flux's blog on the "Steam Engine": Steam Engine: From Basic Use to Advanced Features
Thank you soo much for that link to the article about sub-ohm and VV/VW devices! I am now changing my mind about wanting to build a super low coil. I'm going to get some smaller guage wire and build larger resistance coils to compare. Great info!
I still like a low ohm build on my regulated mods PERSONALLY. You certainly do not need to do it to get the wattage you are 100% right but it is a different. A 1.0 or 1.whatever ohm coil probably wont even keep up at 100w let alone 150 (I MAY be wrong because I have not tried it) but even if it does keep up (not burn etc) it is going to be different then doing it with a .1 ohm build. Everyone has preference but personally I do not feel that cause I am using a regulated box I will have the same experience sub ohm and not sub ohm because I disagree. I have tried it but YMMV and what ever works for you I am glad. I have a build in my Doge right now that is .1 ohm. It is using twisted 24 gauge kanthal. I have the airflow open all the way, its on my IPV3 and I am vapeing it at 150w. It keeps up just fine and provides an insanely dense, warm to hot flavorful vape FOR ME. I dont know to many folks who actually ENJOY the builds I do. Some use them here and there for whatever reasons but my NORMAL day to day builds are super sub ohm no matter the device. I only go down to .2 on mech mods though and always use good batteries and for me the clouds have nothing to do with it. I just enjoy a really warm, really dense vape.
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