Super T friends

[officer196]

Hey guys. Have a question about my Ela 2. I've been building to around .2-.25 and getting a hot button. I'll clean the switch and usually that lasts about 3 days and it has to be recleaned. I've read the Ela doesn't handle low ohms very well, although .2 is doable, I'm getting tired of cleaning it quite that often. So my question is where is your usual build resistance?

 

[Bad Ninja]

About .2-.24 on the workhorse telescopic at the low end.

.28 with quad coils on the solid brass workhorse.

Never had a hot button issue.

Check your spring. Sometimes swapping it out for a better spring will solve the problem

 

[officer196]

Hmm, already have the HD spring in. Might just need to make a trip to the hardware store for something with a bit more heft.

Just did a build at .4 and already thinking of rebuilding to my original specs. vape is too cold for my taste.

 

[duc916]

I'll clean the switch and usually that lasts about 3 days and it has to be recleaned.

I don't have a Super T but you might try a little Ox-Gard in all the places that you have to clean to cure the hot button (usually the button internals).

Converted a few skeptics in this thread: SMPL Mod-Help

Some people will never recommend any grease, and I suspect it's because they find that fussing over an oxidized mech mod every few days is enjoyable in some way. I'm not one of those people, and it sounds like you aren't either.

 

[Durty D]

On my ELAs the lowest I build is around .2

My tricks? Make sure you sand the contact areas on the spring, make sure the compression band is polished and clean and use oxgard on the top cap threads, the switch threads AND both contact areas on the spring itself.

I also notice that the flat switch has almost no issue with hot button where the stock switch is more prone to it and needs more regular cleaning.

How are you cleaning the switch?

 

[officer196]

On my ELAs the lowest I build is around .2

My tricks? Make sure you sand the contact areas on the spring, make sure the compression band is polished and clean and use oxgard on the top cap threads, the switch threads AND both contact areas on the spring itself.

I also notice that the flat switch has almost no issue with hot button where the stock switch is more prone to it and needs more regular cleaning.

How are you cleaning the switch?

I'm going to try the oxgard next but I also swapped the original button housing for the flat one. I don't have the flat button itself, but the housing that makes the ELA sit flat. It seems to help as it seems like there is more surface area.

As far as cleaning, the button, housing and spring I'll use 2000 grit sandpaper, then go over it with mothers mag polish with a dremel tool buffing wheel. Then all those parts are wiped in rubbing alcohol to remove any residue.

Contacts are simply wiped off with rubing alcohol since they are plated. Threads are cleaned with baking soda / water paste and toothbrush.

 

[anavidfan]

By the way, out of curiosity, what type of atomizer are you using?

I ask because I had a problem with my ELA similar to yours. I was a slave to cleaning.

I have come to a possible reason for my problems. I was using an atomizer with a 510 air intake rather than like most modern atties, having the intake on outer side.

I believe, and this is just a theory, that all the condensation made its way inside the top contact pin. It has a pressed housing and I think juice eventually made its way inside and no matter how much I cleaned, I just could not get it out.

I sent it in to ST a few months into heavy use, and they replaced the top cap and it worked again perfectly for a while.

Like I say, Its a theory... I have no way to prove or disprove. All I know is many have been using theirs with no problems for years now and the only thing other than some sort of other problem, is they used atomizers with side air.

 

[officer196]

By the way, out of curiosity, what type of atomizer are you using?

I ask because I had a problem with my ELA similar to yours. I was a slave to cleaning.

I have come to a possible reason for my problems. I was using an atomizer with a 510 air intake rather than like most modern atties, having the intake on outer side.

I believe, and this is just a theory, that all the condensation made its way inside the top contact pin. It has a pressed housing and I think juice eventually made its way inside and no matter how much I cleaned, I just could not get it out.

I sent it in to ST a few months into heavy use, and they replaced the top cap and it worked again perfectly for a while.

Like I say, Its a theory... I have no way to prove or disprove. All I know is many have been using theirs with no problems for years now and the only thing other than some sort of other problem, is they used atomizers with side air.

I'm one of those people who as much as I love using RDA's, I have to use ones with top air flow to reduce any leaking. Previously I was using a Sapor, but that got shelved due to the positive posts just spinning. Now I use the Aeolus V2 lite.

 

[Durty D]

@officer196 You're doing all you can on the cleaning then. I have a few Super T mods and the ones that have the tightest tolerances have the fewest issues. More surface area (and proximity)of the metals in the switch are factors certainly. I have two ELAs and they behave differently as well, albeit one in SS and the other in Ti.

 

[officer196]

@officer196 You're doing all you can on the cleaning then. I have a few Super T mods and the ones that have the tightest tolerances have the fewest issues. More surface area (and proximity)of the metals in the switch are factors certainly. I have two ELAs and they behave differently as well, albeit one in SS and the other in Ti.

Well with the different button housing it seems to help. I'll pick up some oxgard as well.