ok im looking for another clearo and heard good things about the T3 but the heads are more money the the protank heads? they are not better then the protank are they? I wanted to get something cheeper so i could have more then one juice going at a time and they are less the 6 bucks but the heads are kinda pricy
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i have several of them, and several spare heads,i love em,the heads are super easy to clean, and they are rebuildable.
i dont know anything about protanks though.
i dont know anything about protanks though.
Kanger T3s/MT3s Coil Replacement ** 5 Pack - 2.5 ohms for heads - 5 pack for $6.
Kanger MT3 / MT3s Clearomizers - the descriptive text is about the T3s and MTs, and you can get replacement bases to "upgrade" old T3/MT3.
Kanger MT3 / MT3s Clearomizers - the descriptive text is about the T3s and MTs, and you can get replacement bases to "upgrade" old T3/MT3.
Chiming in real quick: I had a couple T3s and hated them. I could only get mine to work for a day before they would start gurgling and leaking. I now have a few protanks in rotation and really like them.
I've converted my T3's to T3S's which has eliminated the dry hit and gurgling problem.
I've heard that all the new T3's should be T3S's from now on.
I've heard that all the new T3's should be T3S's from now on.
In my playing around with the T3/T3S heads I have discovered something that I think might contribute to the gurgling.
When I pull the air tube off and look at the top two (flavor) wicks they have been pushed to the side in the center forming an area open to the coil. Sort of like if you were to place two strings side by side then take the ends and push them together each string would bend out opposite to the other forming an opening between them.
If I take my tweezers and turn the wicks over so they are laying one on top of the other instead of side by side the gurgling problem goes away.
I don't know how this opening is created. It might be the way I clean them. I put the contact end in a modified syringe (see images below) and force water through it first out the air tube then I plug the air tube and force water out the wicks. This might contribute to spreading the two wicks apart. YMMV
When I pull the air tube off and look at the top two (flavor) wicks they have been pushed to the side in the center forming an area open to the coil. Sort of like if you were to place two strings side by side then take the ends and push them together each string would bend out opposite to the other forming an opening between them.
If I take my tweezers and turn the wicks over so they are laying one on top of the other instead of side by side the gurgling problem goes away.
I don't know how this opening is created. It might be the way I clean them. I put the contact end in a modified syringe (see images below) and force water through it first out the air tube then I plug the air tube and force water out the wicks. This might contribute to spreading the two wicks apart. YMMV
Same here, I have 2 T3's that I just bought T3S bases for along with a 5 pack of heads. The Evod/Protank style heads are very welcomed by me because they're easier for me to recoil. Getting the insulator back in the old T3 bases gave me fits even with a precision needle nose plier.
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