TC Issues With 316L

[VapingVro]

Okay guys I've recently acquired an hcigar VT133, have been having mixed results with it on TC for 316L. Only when I do exotic coils does it work properly, right now I have a 6 wrap 22g at .34ohms locked in, and when I fire it, it says "OFF" where it should show temperature. But when I have say a clapton coil, it will rise to the set temperature and stop. Any help guys? Thanks and much love.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

when the display says "off" it means you've been dumped out of TC and into regular power/wattage mode. most likely because of a too high of a base resistance reading/loose connection/incorrect wire CSV/not high enough of a set wattage to reach your set temp.
a couple tips that work for me...
don't lock your resistance, let the board refine your resistance as low as possible.
i use spaced coils
make sure you're using the correct wire profile/CSV
make sure your connections are secure - ex. post screws, 510 etc.
make sure you mod's "internal resistance" is set correctly (can check by using EScribe.)
too low of a wattage setting or preheat setting will also dump you out of TC. the DNA needs to see a 180F rise in temp in the first second for it stay in TC.

 

[VapingVro]

when the display says "off" it means you've been dumped out of TC and into regular power/wattage mode. most likely because of a too high of a base resistance reading/loose connection/incorrect wire CSV.
a couple tips that work for me...
don't lock your resistance, let the board refine your resistance as low as possible.
i use spaced coils
make sure you're using the correct wire profile/CSV
make sure your connections are secure - ex. post screws, 510 etc.
make sure you mod's "internal resistance" is set correctly (can check by using EScribe.)

Yeah man I don't understand it tbh because I just took that build out and put in a juggernaut coil about .02 higher so it's .037 and it works haha. Just can't ever get round wire to work

 

[AtmizrOpin]

don't lock your res. let the board refine it. you'll most likely see your res drop a little bit after letting the mod sit idle to cool for 10-15. you can see this in EScribe's atomizer analyzer.

 

[VapingVro]

don't lock your res. let the board refine it. you'll most likely see your res drop a little bit after letting the mod sit idle to cool for 10-15. you can see this in EScribe's atomizer analyzer.

So don't lock it even after a while? I usually dry fire it until it doesn't fluctuate and then lock it. It works fine on this new Therion 166 I have but never works with a single strand always have to do a coil with at least 2 pieces of wire.

 

[KenD]

So don't lock it even after a while? I usually dry fire it until it doesn't fluctuate and then lock it. It works fine on this new Therion 166 I have but never works with a single strand always have to do a coil with at least 2 pieces of wire.

No, don't lock it. It's not needed on Evolv boards (or Joyetech/Wismec/Eleaf for that matter) and it interferes with the proper functioning of the tc.

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[VapingVro]

No, don't lock it. It's not needed on Evolv boards (or Joyetech/Wismec/Eleaf for that matter) and it interferes with the proper functioning of the tc.

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Crazy dude thanks, what's the point of locking ohms then?

 

[KenD]

Crazy dude thanks, what's the point of locking ohms then?

Some chips require it (Yihi particularly, I believe Smok does as well) as they won't lock in the base resistance otherwise. With DNAs, and Joyetech boards, locking is really only required if you have an unstable build or atomizer (which you shouldn't use anyway). The original DNA40 didn't have a way to lock resistance. It was added in later versions of the board as customers kept complaining about the lack of it. So, Evolv basically caved in and added an unnecessary feature.

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[VapingVro]

Some chips require it (Yihi particularly, I believe Smok does as well) as they won't lock in the base resistance otherwise. With DNAs, and Joyetech boards, locking is really only required if you have an unstable build or atomizer (which you shouldn't use anyway). The original DNA40 didn't have a way to lock resistance. It was added in later versions of the board as customers kept complaining about the lack of it. So, Evolv basically caved in and added an unnecessary feature.

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Roger that thanks mate!

 

[GeorgeS]

Actually, the LOCK feature is quite useful if you live in a area with wide temperature swings or like to leave your mod in your car on a cold or hot day.

The chipsets that are constantly "refining" the coil resistance might decide that your coil has less resistance and serve up a LAME VAPE while if it decides that the resistance ought to be higher you might end up with burnt wick.

While they have been getting better of late the early "did you mount a new coil Y/N" logic was problematic at best and non-functional at worse. Simply remove a tank to refill it (recall BOTTOM FILL?) and once remounted the mod might simply latch onto the faulty slightly warm coil and use that new value as the resistance set point forcing the user to jump through all sorts of hoops to attempt to get the mod to read a correct resistance.

Resistance locking fixed all that.

Then there is YiHi which forces the user to push the UP+DOWN buttons at the same time to read the coil (modern ones allow you to edit/change the read value) and will use THAT value no matter WHAT TANK is mounted until such time the USER pushes the UP+DOWN buttons again to register a new reading.

Modern firmware has gotten better however there are times where the YiHi functionality comes in handy.

 

[AtmizrOpin]

Actually, the LOCK feature is quite useful if you live in a area with wide temperature swings or like to leave your mod in your car on a cold or hot day.

The chipsets that are constantly "refining" the coil resistance might decide that your coil has less resistance and serve up a LAME VAPE while if it decides that the resistance ought to be higher you might end up with burnt wick.

While they have been getting better of late the early "did you mount a new coil Y/N" logic was problematic at best and non-functional at worse. Simply remove a tank to refill it (recall BOTTOM FILL?) and once remounted the mod might simply latch onto the faulty slightly warm coil and use that new value as the resistance set point forcing the user to jump through all sorts of hoops to attempt to get the mod to read a correct resistance.

Resistance locking fixed all that.

Then there is YiHi which forces the user to push the UP+DOWN buttons at the same time to read the coil (modern ones allow you to edit/change the read value) and will use THAT value no matter WHAT TANK is mounted until such time the USER pushes the UP+DOWN buttons again to register a new reading.

Modern firmware has gotten better however there are times where the YiHi functionality comes in handy.

i agree. i noticed with some build/atty's, if i let the board refine my resistance (take a few puffs, set the device down for 15-30 min) then lock in that refined resistance, it's a more stable consistent vape. otherwise, especially with this weather, my res will creep up/down a small amount changing the set temp needed for a good vape. i fall into the trading "accuracy for consistency" category. i don't really care if my actual temp is higher or lower than my set temp. i can dial it in to taste just the same. i usually don't lock my res tho. only if i find myself periodically adjusting the temp +/- 15-20 degrees.

 

[kiba]

Try downloading a new TFR range from steam engine, on the vt75 nano I had, all the materials were off and I had to replace them all except for ni200.

Ofc it could be the mod itself, hcigar is well known for poor quality, I've experienced this myself.

 

[KenD]

Actually, the LOCK feature is quite useful if you live in a area with wide temperature swings or like to leave your mod in your car on a cold or hot day.

The chipsets that are constantly "refining" the coil resistance might decide that your coil has less resistance and serve up a LAME VAPE while if it decides that the resistance ought to be higher you might end up with burnt wick.

While they have been getting better of late the early "did you mount a new coil Y/N" logic was problematic at best and non-functional at worse. Simply remove a tank to refill it (recall BOTTOM FILL?) and once remounted the mod might simply latch onto the faulty slightly warm coil and use that new value as the resistance set point forcing the user to jump through all sorts of hoops to attempt to get the mod to read a correct resistance.

Resistance locking fixed all that.

Then there is YiHi which forces the user to push the UP+DOWN buttons at the same time to read the coil (modern ones allow you to edit/change the read value) and will use THAT value no matter WHAT TANK is mounted until such time the USER pushes the UP+DOWN buttons again to register a new reading.

Modern firmware has gotten better however there are times where the YiHi functionality comes in handy.

Didn't think about that. Then again, I've never had any problems and it can get quite hot here in the summer (even though it's in the North), and cold in the winter (though not as cold as when I lived further up North). Not as hot as in a car in the sunlight, but I wouldn't leave anything with li-ions in that kind of heat.

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