just got myself a sigelei 150w. so far still using wattage mode. never use TC be4. anything to take note that is different from normal kanthel coil and NI200?
tc mods
- Thread starter Gambit52
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Just about everything.. Well almost 
for starters DO NOT do the usual dry burn to test for hot spots. Set the temp to bout 420F and adjust from there, if there is no auto detect.
The usual Ni200 wires are also softer so take more care when pulling the wicks thru.
for starters DO NOT do the usual dry burn to test for hot spots. Set the temp to bout 420F and adjust from there, if there is no auto detect. The usual Ni200 wires are also softer so take more care when pulling the wicks thru.
Starting out with TC...
1. Start with spaced coils. Usually 7 wraps will keep your resistance in the healthy range.
2. Make sure your connections are secure. I can't stress this enough. Nickel jumps easily. But also ensure you don't overtighten that you snap your leads.
3. Always put on your atty at room temp to get the most accurate reading. When on mod perhaps leave about 30seconds to a minute for the resistance to settle and then lock it if you can.
3. If you don't want your wicks to burn at all, set at 420. If you wick it right it should not throttle even at 20w. On my goblin mini I've the wicking perfect such that it won't throttle even when I'm at 35w @420F.
4. Idk for others but my nickel gunks easily with my sweet and creamy juices. When rewicking be careful when pulling your cotton out or you'll mess your coil. If it's gunked beyond measure just rebuild. I rewick every 2 days and recoil every week to maintain optimum flavor and performance.
5. Once you're comfortable with TC you can try alternative builds like twisted, double coiling etc. It helps if your mod can read till 0.05.
Good luck with TC! Some people hate it, others like me will rarely go without it. You'll find your own preference regarding temperature and build as you get comfortable. If you encounter any trouble you can always ask here, will be glad to help.
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1. Start with spaced coils. Usually 7 wraps will keep your resistance in the healthy range.
2. Make sure your connections are secure. I can't stress this enough. Nickel jumps easily. But also ensure you don't overtighten that you snap your leads.
3. Always put on your atty at room temp to get the most accurate reading. When on mod perhaps leave about 30seconds to a minute for the resistance to settle and then lock it if you can.
3. If you don't want your wicks to burn at all, set at 420. If you wick it right it should not throttle even at 20w. On my goblin mini I've the wicking perfect such that it won't throttle even when I'm at 35w @420F.
4. Idk for others but my nickel gunks easily with my sweet and creamy juices. When rewicking be careful when pulling your cotton out or you'll mess your coil. If it's gunked beyond measure just rebuild. I rewick every 2 days and recoil every week to maintain optimum flavor and performance.
5. Once you're comfortable with TC you can try alternative builds like twisted, double coiling etc. It helps if your mod can read till 0.05.
Good luck with TC! Some people hate it, others like me will rarely go without it. You'll find your own preference regarding temperature and build as you get comfortable. If you encounter any trouble you can always ask here, will be glad to help.
Sent from my ONE A2001 using Tapatalk
any suggest wat gauge of NI200 i should start with? if i do dual coil with 26gauge 0.2mm diameter 8 wrap, around how much ohm will i get?
No ohm...... not totally joking 26g 6 wraps on a 7/16 drill bit came out to .06 may have been 5 wraps but I don't remember as I stopped using it. 28g was like .08 iirc
Oh also if u can get ur hands on tempered nickel it's a bit easier to work with
The Asolo 200 W TC does the same on Ni and Ti as everyone else out there..... PLUS a dry hit provention on Kanthal wire and stainless .....
It was tagged to be at about 165$ when it hit to market... but so many ppl just could not believe that it actually worked (considering all the lying/issues over the M80 from smok) that
there are a few places that have cut the price just to get it rolling out the door...
I have one... and let me be the first to say that it works... and works great.... You may not be able to throw crazy low builds on it... but it will handle down to .5 ohms on kanthal and do it while keeping you from getting dry hits and a mouth full of burnt cotton... and I am absolutely able to throw a clouds like to pro's with coils at .5 all the way to 1.5 ohms on this Box... Add in the snowwolf was going for 200 when it came out... and the Dna 200 is somewhere around there I think... I don't see how you can bet this box or price... ???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381408214394?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
It was tagged to be at about 165$ when it hit to market... but so many ppl just could not believe that it actually worked (considering all the lying/issues over the M80 from smok) that
there are a few places that have cut the price just to get it rolling out the door...
I have one... and let me be the first to say that it works... and works great.... You may not be able to throw crazy low builds on it... but it will handle down to .5 ohms on kanthal and do it while keeping you from getting dry hits and a mouth full of burnt cotton... and I am absolutely able to throw a clouds like to pro's with coils at .5 all the way to 1.5 ohms on this Box... Add in the snowwolf was going for 200 when it came out... and the Dna 200 is somewhere around there I think... I don't see how you can bet this box or price... ???
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381408214394?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
Interesting...so you don't get dry hits at all even with kanthal? I will always prefer building with kanthal.
I think my wallet is starting to play hide and seek with me already.
Sent from my ONE A2001 using Tapatalk
I think my wallet is starting to play hide and seek with me already.
Sent from my ONE A2001 using Tapatalk
I have an Asolo 200W Mod Box that does a "dry hit protection" on A1 Kanthal wire... most will say that this is not "true temp control"... blah blah blah... While this is a true statement... Most do not truly realize that none of the Mods out right now are "true temp control"... NO ONE IS actually measuring temp with a thermal couple... They are using the Resistance Property , or known rate of resistance change of Ni/Ti to "calculate what the temp is.... think of it like this... If you where judging how fast you are going in a car by looking at the Tachometer and knowing what gear you are in to figure out what your Speedometer is reading. Yes it gets you to the same point, but it is not the same thing/method as looking at the Speedometer to get your speed...
If you get what I am saying above... then you can see why I say that no one to date is actually measuring the actual temp... they are just measure the voltage drop, and know that to get that drop, the temp must be at this temp because that is the only way the Ni wire would have changed it's Resistance to value "X". The coil has to be at Value "X" because we see a Voltage of "Y".
This works just fine, and it does get the job done... but it is not actually reading the temp of the coil... no little leprechaun seating inside with a inferred thermal couple has ever been put in any mod...
Now from what I can tell, this BoxMod (the Asolo 200W TC) does Ni/Ti the same as everyone else... basically some form/function of this type of calculation to Ni and Ti wire...
>>>>Next<<<< does it work on Kanthal???? the answer seems to be Yes.... and does just fine as long as you don't go crazy on your builds... (Or reverse bias/short out your 510 pin).... Is it "temp control" in the same way that Ni and Ti is done... NO... NO it is not... BUT... It does do something that no one else has done so far... They are Monitoring the juice in the wick on Kanthal... and when that "juice" dries up, or starts to burn off faster than the wick can pull it in from the tank... they are backing down and controlling the wattage to keep you (the user) from overheating the coil and thus burning the cotton...
It is a great Idea... and they are actually pulling this off... no joke...
Is it "temp control???"... NO... but it does keep or at least extremely help the user to "NOT BURN COTTON" (ie... get dry hits)... And that is really the purpose of going over to a Temp Control Box anyway...
I have one... and I actually love it, and think monitoring the "juice level" is a smarter thing to do than trying to see the temp of the coil... why... (glad you asked...lol)
if you watch the temp... then it has to reach the temp before "I can see it is too hot" and need to back off... by then, I have already started to burn the cotton... unless I set my temp below the temp that cotton burns in the first place... even If I do that... (set below burn temp)... my box is still reacting to the "temp (or calculated temp)" of the coil... where as if I monitor the juice... my box will cut the power before it allows the coil to heat up a dry wick... This may not seem like a big difference in theory, but if you actually understand that the coils temp is already (in every single mod known to man) already being regulated by the fact that juice is cooling it off as you vape (ie.. heat flux),... then you should be able to see that looking and controlling the wattage based on what the juice is doing is actually a much more "pro-active" method than watching "temp"...
look at it this way... A pot of water on the stove will rise in temp as you put a flame under it... the rate it goes up is based on the size of the heat source... but once that pot of water starts to boil... the temp will not get any hotter... because the water turns to steam... and the water left in the pot is just a little bit cooler and has not turned to steam yet.... as long as I have an endless supply of water... the temp will stay the same... regardless of how big a flame I put under it... or how long I leave it there.... this is heat flux in a simple explanation... Not what do you thing the pot's temp doing in this explanation??? yep... staying the same... because the water it "holding it there"... BUT... if I don't have an unlimited supply of water... and the pot is allowed to boil off all the water it had... what do you think will happen to the temp of the pot???? yep... it goes up... how much??? depends on the size of the flame.... cause there is no water to "hold the temp" of the pot to "X"....
If you get all of this... then you should be able to see that the coil is doing the same thing as the pot from above... and that the "juice" is acting like the water in the pot from above... So to me, a Box that stops me from burning up and overheating my "pot" when it is out of water, is actually a much smarter way to keep me safe... ???
OK>... sorry that got so long... but could not think of a shorter way to explain with out coming off as a jerk know it all...
p.s. I just saw an Asolo 200W going for 100$ on ebay right now.... if you or anyone is interested...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381408214394?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
-----> danger of vaping with Nickel
experience bros, how true is this? really have different taste while on nickel? it says nickel will produce something that cause cancer.
experience bros, how true is this? really have different taste while on nickel? it says nickel will produce something that cause cancer.
When using it with tc ur fine. TBH that dude is kind of a ........... We don't use it in cooking because it's so soft, has a high allergy rate, and the temps it would have hitting it on a stove top would make it oxidize and prob melt. I didn't notice a difference in taste when I used nickel. It does start to create bad stuff at temps that any tc MOD won't let you get to. If you use it on a non tc MOD Ya it's going to be dangerous. I have seen a few people doing that because of its low ohms and they don't know anything about it. Also there have been plenty of people with allergies to it who have vaped with it and been fine(me being one of them) so I don't think it's leaching into the juice.
jus try out TC for the first time. success! haha. 12 wrap of 3mm with 26 gauge NI200 on my velocity. got 0.11 ohm. anything less my sigelei cannot read already.
personally feel that taste is lesser than using dual coil Kanthal 0.4ohm compare with above setting with 420F at 28J.
anything to improve the taste?
personally feel that taste is lesser than using dual coil Kanthal 0.4ohm compare with above setting with 420F at 28J.
anything to improve the taste?
U can try it at 40J. Mine on uwell crown, 0.5 ohm ni200 coil head ran at 400F at 40J gave good flavors that I became lazy to use dripper. Hahah. But once in a while I still go back to my velocity with dual twisted kanthal.
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