TC Problems

[nwon]

Hi all,

I started TC a fairly long time now, when you could only get ni200, I live in Portugal, btw. I got to a point that I'm using Titanium grade 1 on an evic VTC with custom TC curve of '366'. I do a decent spaced coil, I use a kuro koiler for it to be even and then I pull on it so it's spaced. I'm currently using a single coil on the goblin mini v3 and it's pretty stable, nice connections. But that leads to my question.

Sometimes the ohm reading falls say from 0.43 to 0.40. And when that happens I have to adjust the temperature from 230ºC to 260ºC. I don't get it, shouldn't TC be like variable wattage? Can someone please help me understand this or maybe there's something I'm doing wrong.

Thank you.

 

[GBalkam]

resistance changes as wire temp changes. Depending on the type of wire. Also, check your post screws to make sure they are tight.

 

[nwon]

resistance changes as wire temp changes. Depending on the type of wire. Also, check your post screws to make sure they are tight.

I made sure everything was super tight. It doesn't change resistance that often, also, the build is one week old, don't know if it's relevant.
What I can't understand is why I need to ramp up the temp to have the same vapor production and warmth...

 

[Two_Bears]

Hi all,

I started TC a fairly long time now, when you could only get ni200, I live in Portugal, btw. I got to a point that I'm using Titanium grade 1 on an evic VTC with custom TC curve of '366'. I do a decent spaced coil, I use a kuro koiler for it to be even and then I pull on it so it's spaced. I'm currently using a single coil on the goblin mini v3 and it's pretty stable, nice connections. But that leads to my question.

Sometimes the ohm reading falls say from 0.43 to 0.40. And when that happens I have to adjust the temperature from 230ºC to 260ºC. I don't get it, shouldn't TC be like variable wattage? Can someone please help me understand this or maybe there's something I'm doing wrong.

Thank you.

As wire heats up the resistance will go up and down.

Small changes as reported is normal.

If tge resistance is jumping all over The map there is sonething wrong.

Short
Poor connection.

 

[nwon]

As wire heats up the resistance will go up and down.

Small changes as reported is normal.

If tge resistance is jumping all over The map there is sonething wrong.

Short
Poor connection.

They are small changes in resistance and the goblin mini v3 does quite well. I was doing TC with the kayfun mini v3 for a long time and I had a hard time with the connections.
I still don't understand if it's normal needing to adjust the temp according to those small changes in resistance.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

They are small changes in resistance and the goblin mini v3 does quite well. I was doing TC with the kayfun mini v3 for a long time and I had a hard time with the connections.
I still don't understand if it's normal needing to adjust the temp according to those small changes in resistance.

When the res drops just a little, it's usually a new coil settling in and is quite common. Keep an eye on it and you should see it has stabilized, no problem.

The temp adjustment is due to how TC functions... "resistance as thermometer". And how much voltage is applied to achieve a requested wattage... resistance factors in there.
Even a change of 3 or 4 hundredths can make a significant difference in TC... if your mod reads the res that much higher... you'll find the temp too hot.

Let the coil settle before setting a "working" temp on the mod. Again... no problem, just something to be aware of. And if you drift too far from the wire's actual TCR, you'll find the same changes, as well as possible loss of dry hit/burnt hit protection (though 366 sounds like Ti 1's proper TCR value, I haven't used Ti in a long time).


However, now the bad news...

While some mods will properly update the resistance (like the DNA's "refinement") others can have issues with keeping a solid res even with tight connections in the atty.

Our VTCs are notorious for this, or at least were for quite a while last fall into this spring (I haven't seen nearly as many posts about it since summer).
Basically, it does exactly what you describe, at unpredictable intervals, producing what we called an "anemic" vape.

If it's your VTC causing the problem...
Depending on which firmware version you're using, you can try "downgrading" then re-upgrading the software.

You can try "tricking" the mod into using the correct res by vaping it just enough to raise the resistance that 3 or 4 hundredths, then setting the "res lock" on the mod (used to do that with JoyeTech's eLeaf iStick 40TC as well. It's an old trick... when it works.).

You can skim through the massive VTC thread we have, but... despite many owners trying everything under the sun, I don't recall any surefire solution.

 

[Two_Bears]

They are small changes in resistance and the goblin mini v3 does quite well. I was doing TC with the kayfun mini v3 for a long time and I had a hard time with the connections.
I still don't understand if it's normal needing to adjust the temp according to those small changes in resistance.

No you don't have to do anything about those minor changed. Nothing to worry about either.

 

[sofarsogood]

I would build a new coil. It would seem to be fine and after a few days hot spots would appear. That seems to have been solved by spacing the coil. I use 28 guage stainless at 1.3-1.4 ohms. Over all TC has worked well for me, a better choice for me than power mode.

 

[nwon]

No you don't have to do anything about those minor changed. Nothing to worry about either.

But the problem is if I don't adjust the temp I don't get the same vapor and warmth... It's like I have to keep adjusting the wattage I mean If a variable wattage system was broken...

 

[nwon]

When the res drops just a little, it's usually a new coil settling in and is quite common. Keep an eye on it and you should see it has stabilized, no problem.

The temp adjustment is due to how TC functions... "resistance as thermometer". And how much voltage is applied to achieve a requested wattage... resistance factors in there.
Even a change of 3 or 4 hundredths can make a significant difference in TC... if your mod reads the res that much higher... you'll find the temp too hot.

Let the coil settle before setting a "working" temp on the mod. Again... no problem, just something to be aware of. And if you drift too far from the wire's actual TCR, you'll find the same changes, as well as possible loss of dry hit/burnt hit protection (though 366 sounds like Ti 1's proper TCR value, I haven't used Ti in a long time).


However, now the bad news...

While some mods will properly update the resistance (like the DNA's "refinement") others can have issues with keeping a solid res even with tight connections in the atty.

Our VTCs are notorious for this, or at least were for quite a while last fall into this spring (I haven't seen nearly as many posts about it since summer).
Basically, it does exactly what you describe, at unpredictable intervals, producing what we called an "anemic" vape.

If it's your VTC causing the problem...
Depending on which firmware version you're using, you can try "downgrading" then re-upgrading the software.

You can try "tricking" the mod into using the correct res by vaping it just enough to raise the resistance that 3 or 4 hundredths, then setting the "res lock" on the mod (used to do that with JoyeTech's eLeaf iStick 40TC as well. It's an old trick... when it works.).

You can skim through the massive VTC thread we have, but... despite many owners trying everything under the sun, I don't recall any surefire solution.

Yesterday I tried downgrading and then upgrading the mod and it started reading the first resistance it ever read with this build. I'm starting to think there are some bugs with the VTC mini

I couldn't find that VTC thread you talked about to learn more. I just hope they fix it in an upgrade because I'm not really ready to buy another mod.

 

[daviedog]

Had my best results in tc with ss316l, a bit above average. I only adjusted watts for ramp up depending on AWG.
Once i got a DNA board, everything changed.
My other mods are now power mode only.
Just got tired of swimming upstream..

 

[nwon]

Had my best results in tc with ss316l, a bit above average. I only adjusted watts for ramp up depending on AWG.
Once i got a DNA board, everything changed.
My other mods are now power mode only.
Just got tired of swimming upstream..

I guess I'll have to consider a new mod sometime if I want consistent results with TC but right now it really isn't an option.

Thank you for your input anyway.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Hi all,

I started TC a fairly long time now, when you could only get ni200, I live in Portugal, btw. I got to a point that I'm using Titanium grade 1 on an evic VTC with custom TC curve of '366'. I do a decent spaced coil, I use a kuro koiler for it to be even and then I pull on it so it's spaced. I'm currently using a single coil on the goblin mini v3 and it's pretty stable, nice connections. But that leads to my question.

Sometimes the ohm reading falls say from 0.43 to 0.40. And when that happens I have to adjust the temperature from 230ºC to 260ºC. I don't get it, shouldn't TC be like variable wattage? Can someone please help me understand this or maybe there's something I'm doing wrong.

Thank you.

I've been doing TC with NI200 for a fairly long time now and love it.. it's easy, reliable, and such. I tried TI, didn't like it and the more I read about it, the more I feel like I will never use the spool I have of it.

Then came SS, been playing with it for a while and learned that there is a learning curve with it.

To answer your questions...

Your eVic is probably quite fine, I have one and it's been pretty flawless.

Ti and SS do behave very similarly.

Ti, just like SS requires a fair amount of wire for the TC to work correctly, so single small coils with just a few wraps aren't going to work very well, you would probably get much better results with a dual built.

It is normal that new, and a bit used, the ohms will change a bit. If they continue changing, then you have something happening, such as the coil is getting some gunk forming on it (or on the wick) which requires you to increase the heat to get the evaporation to happen through this build-up, and yes, this can affect the resistance a little bit.

Most coils are prone to rapid gunk buildup with smaller builds/gauge, so you might want to try a larger thickness wire. Myself, the more I build, the more I prefer 26gauge for both my NI and SS coils now, but I go with NI for the single coils builds and the SS for the dual ones.


With many builds I do, I can easily stay under 200ºC and get a very warm vape with this approach.

But I would tell you to get away from TI and go with SS instead.

I really would believe that it is NOT your mod, it's probably your tank and/or builds that are giving you hardships.

I know that for me, I had tried SS many times and couldn't get it to work right at all with single coils, etc. then got a new dual build tank, gave it a chance and it was like a whole new discovery, my SS finally worked correctly/perfectly with TC on the same mods that with the other tanks (and single coils) wouldn't work right at all.

I even re-tested after a while and re-did a build on a single coil tank and again, terrible results.

I'm very confident that would probably have the same results with TI, but as I stated, I don't really want to use TI anymore due to the information I've read about it and health safety. (I consider it worse in many ways than NI)

 

[nwon]

I've been doing TC with NI200 for a fairly long time now and love it.. it's easy, reliable, and such. I tried TI, didn't like it and the more I read about it, the more I feel like I will never use the spool I have of it.

Then came SS, been playing with it for a while and learned that there is a learning curve with it.

To answer your questions...

Your eVic is probably quite fine, I have one and it's been pretty flawless.

Ti and SS do behave very similarly.

Ti, just like SS requires a fair amount of wire for the TC to work correctly, so single small coils with just a few wraps aren't going to work very well, you would probably get much better results with a dual built.

It is normal that new, and a bit used, the ohms will change a bit. If they continue changing, then you have something happening, such as the coil is getting some gunk forming on it (or on the wick) which requires you to increase the heat to get the evaporation to happen through this build-up, and yes, this can affect the resistance a little bit.

Most coils are prone to rapid gunk buildup with smaller builds/gauge, so you might want to try a larger thickness wire. Myself, the more I build, the more I prefer 26gauge for both my NI and SS coils now, but I go with NI for the single coils builds and the SS for the dual ones.


With many builds I do, I can easily stay under 200ºC and get a very warm vape with this approach.

But I would tell you to get away from TI and go with SS instead.

I really would believe that it is NOT your mod, it's probably your tank and/or builds that are giving you hardships.

I know that for me, I had tried SS many times and couldn't get it to work right at all with single coils, etc. then got a new dual build tank, gave it a chance and it was like a whole new discovery, my SS finally worked correctly/perfectly with TC on the same mods that with the other tanks (and single coils) wouldn't work right at all.

I even re-tested after a while and re-did a build on a single coil tank and again, terrible results.

I'm very confident that would probably have the same results with TI, but as I stated, I don't really want to use TI anymore due to the information I've read about it and health safety. (I consider it worse in many ways than NI)

Thank you for all the info, guess I have some new builds to try

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

Thank you for all the info, guess I have some new builds to try

Good luck, let me know how it goes and if I can help assist you. But for the mod thing.. seriously, the odds are that your mod is absolutely fine, but your tank and if it's a single or dual coil one does make a huge difference. As I don't know what you have for a tank, can't really say anything, but I have several tanks, some single coils, others duals, and I get consistent results across all of them accordingly to the type of coils/metal I use.

 

[nwon]

Good luck, let me know how it goes and if I can help assist you. But for the mod thing.. seriously, the odds are that your mod is absolutely fine, but your tank and if it's a single or dual coil one does make a huge difference. As I don't know what you have for a tank, can't really say anything, but I have several tanks, some single coils, others duals, and I get consistent results across all of them accordingly to the type of coils/metal I use.

I haven't used ni200 for a long time and I'm more of a single coil, MTL guy. What gauge wire do you recommend? I'm usig the goblin mini v3, btw. It has both a single and a dual coil deck.

 

[nwon]

I haven't used ni200 for a long time and I'm more of a single coil, MTL guy. What gauge wire do you recommend? I'm usig the goblin mini v3, btw. It has both a single and a dual coil deck.

I'm sorry, I missed that you had already posted the gauge you use on your first answer.

Thank you.

 

[Imfallen_Angel]

I haven't used ni200 for a long time and I'm more of a single coil, MTL guy. What gauge wire do you recommend? I'm usig the goblin mini v3, btw. It has both a single and a dual coil deck.

I'm sorry, I missed that you had already posted the gauge you use on your first answer.

Thank you.

No problem, it's more about the size of your deck, so either 28 (my old favourite)or 26 (my new favourite).

What matters will be what you normally aim for. I'm fine going from 0.2 (my usual range) to up to 0.5 ohms.

The difference will be the number of wraps (with 26, you'll need a few more wraps than with 28, so you'll have a larger coil for the same ohm range), but you can increase the size of the coil.. so a 3.5mm instead of a 3 mm for example IF it can fit properly in the deck/tank.

Taking into account that for proper TC with NI, the coils have to be spaced out, you have to be sure that you have the space for it with the number of wraps you go with.

Side note: That's something I played with, with SS and found that a spaced or pressed coil still worked fine with TC for me with the coils I tested (but again that was with dual coils decks) and changed the resistances only by a little bit, but with just the right amount of spacing, I've been doing coils that have been 99% no spitting or popping! Bit by bit I've been using my dual coils RTAs more and more (with SS), just got my wife one too and she's loving it. Just got a couple of Bachelor II less than two weeks ago (one mine, the other my wife's) and it's one of the best tanks I've ever used.... absolutely love it. Flat dual deck, the BEST refill system I've ever used, not had a single leak with it, very decent airflow, probably the easiest deck I've ever built on, I had to order another as a spare within the same week.

 

[Two_Bears]

No problem, it's more about the size of your deck, so either 28 (my old favourite)or 26 (my new favourite).

What matters will be what you normally aim for. I'm fine going from 0.2 (my usual range) to up to 0.5 ohms.

The difference will be the number of wraps (with 26, you'll need a few more wraps than with 28, so you'll have a larger coil for the same ohm range), but you can increase the size of the coil.. so a 3.5mm instead of a 3 mm for example IF it can fit properly in the deck/tank.

Taking into account that for proper TC with NI, the coils have to be spaced out, you have to be sure that you have the space for it with the number of wraps you go with.

Side note: That's something I played with, with SS and found that a spaced or pressed coil still worked fine with TC for me with the coils I tested (but again that was with dual coils decks) and changed the resistances only by a little bit, but with just the right amount of spacing, I've been doing coils that have been 99% no spitting or popping! Bit by bit I've been using my dual coils RTAs more and more (with SS), just got my wife one too and she's loving it. Just got a couple of Bachelor II less than two weeks ago (one mine, the other my wife's) and it's one of the best tanks I've ever used.... absolutely love it. Flat dual deck, the BEST refill system I've ever used, not had a single leak with it, very decent airflow, probably the easiest deck I've ever built on, I had to order another as a spare within the same week.

Agreed. I also prefer 26 over 28 gauge.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Yesterday I tried downgrading and then upgrading the mod and it started reading the first resistance it ever read with this build. I'm starting to think there are some bugs with the VTC mini

I couldn't find that VTC thread you talked about to learn more. I just hope they fix it in an upgrade because I'm not really ready to buy another mod.

Despite loving the mod, there are issues, though not common enough to make me regret having one.
Might feel different to those struck bad with the "anemic vape" bug.

Do play with builds and wires though, it's good to experiment ( I admit I'm now almost exclusively SS TC, and lightly spaced just as you've learned to do it)... but the similarity of your symptoms is worrisome.

In case you want, or eventually need, to read our thread here's the link.
And the past month the MyEvic 3rd party firmware has been overhauled and greatly expanded. That's worth a look too, many features we normaly find only in DNA mod's Escribe software (I'm changing comps and haven't set up my update programs yet, so I haven't tried it, but it appears stable).

eVic-VT mini?