well all I can think of then would be re-tune the coil, just to make sure it still fires evenly. Aside from a little shifting and settling I can't think of much else that would cause only a .03 fluctuation.
TC Problems
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Thanks to you all for your replies
I'm not at home at the moment, I had to come to Porto and I'm from Coimbra. But as soon as I can I'll be trying some builds and see how it goes. I'm already trying locking the resistance, I never did that with the VTC mini, just let it do the dynamic thing. But I'm noticing the problem is the same because if I change the atty the resistance changes and I have to mess with the temp or I get anemic vape...
Hi & welcome Nwon
I am going to ask what is probably a stupid question (especially as I only ever bother to vape on power mode) but did you remember to lock in your coil's resistance before starting to vape on TC?
I am going to ask what is probably a stupid question (especially as I only ever bother to vape on power mode) but did you remember to lock in your coil's resistance before starting to vape on TC?
With the VTC mini they say in the manual it's optional, they have that new coil, same coil thing... I used to always lock the resistance in the old evic VT. Anyway, when I unlock it for changing atties, I get the same problem of fluctuating resistances and anemic vape, so I'm not seeing great improvements in locking the resistance
I'll try and answer but forgive me because my experience on TC only extends to having read the instructions. I thought that after locking the resistance the reading simply couldn't fluctuate. As soon as the wire coil heats at all its resistance is going to fluctuate and that is what the mod measures to calculate its temperature. I don't know if the resistance as shown on the mod's screen is supposed to change or not, I would guess that it is allowed to change but the mod will perform based on what you locked in in the first place.
It's basically a "break-in" period that some coils do. When I build, I can make a coil that will read 0.8ohm on my tester, but once I fire it to burn off the coating layer, the resistance will change a bit.. Pre-made coils are like this too.
The lock thing is to give the mod a parameter to go forth with and do the calculation to determine the heat for the TC. The resistance can change a bit and the mod (most of them) will balance themselves off from the value that they are reading, so it's more about the mod using that locked reading as a guide for the TC measurement from a cold wire first. Once it's got that, it just balances the measurements if the resistances changes.
Some people never bother to lock the resistance and the mods work fine... the most important thing is to ensure that the mod is on the right setting (for the metal type / the TCR (Temperature coefficient of resistance).
On Joyetech and DNA mods it's not recommended to lock the resistance. It's not needed for tc on them, and on the DNA at least it's only for unstable builds.
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For the past 9-10 months, I've only ever used (needed) res lock for that reason, or if the mod is being otherwise wonky, so... three times IIRC.
(actually, I have to recall back a ways to the latest time I used it)
TC has come a long way since summer '15.
In a best case scenario... leave the lock off and let the mod do its' job.
So I finally got around to building a new coil on the goblin mini v3. I did a ni200 coil as you suggested and it's vaping great. I don't think the mod is the issue anymore. I don't know if it was the material, or if it was just a better built coil (it was my second build on this atty), but it's really perfect. The only setback I got was that I only could get 0.08ohms with a 26g wire and I usually set the full 75w. The mod kept resetting. It was drawing too much amps with too much watts I guess. Solved it limiting to 40w. And now it's great
Great news.. just make sure that with NI, you don't dry fire and use Temp control at all times.So I finally got around to building a new coil on the goblin mini v3. I did a ni200 coil as you suggested and it's vaping great. I don't think the mod is the issue anymore. I don't know if it was the material, or if it was just a better built coil (it was my second build on this atty), but it's really perfect. The only setback I got was that I only could get 0.08ohms with a 26g wire and I usually set the full 75w. The mod kept resetting. It was drawing too much amps with too much watts I guess. Solved it limiting to 40w. And now it's great
Do make sure that your coil wraps are spaced, as that might be why it's so low in OHMs, the spacing is important and can be a bit tricky as you can't (shouldn't glow) NI at all. One trick is that once it's wicked, prime it well and fire it and watch and see, you should see the boiling liquid evenly across the wraps. (tiny bubbles dancing on the coil)
Such low OHMs can be a sign of the coil's wrap touching or now far enough apart, so you'll have hot spots. How many wraps did you do?
But generally, I barely ever vape higher than 45W with either NI or SS, and it's always better to start lower and increase the power into you get to your "good zone", depending on the coil's size, even down to 30W can be just fine, then adjust the temp. setting. A lower wattage will just means a slower "ramp" so the first pull with be cooler, then the second and third pull is where the flavour and cloud kicks in... some people prefer that (an increasing vaping experience per puff session).
I think I did a rather perfect spaced coil. I don't know how many wraps because usually I just do a lot and then subtract till it's the perfect length for the deck. I never dry fire the Ni or Ti coils. I think you can do that with SS but I never tried SS. I broke in the coil by firing the coil at low temps first but it never really changed resistance, it was really solid. The only problem was really the battery going down but giving the mod only 40w is not a problem for me, it's a perfect vape for my style of vaping.
Glad to hear that it's working for you!
For the battery thing.. yup, with single battery mods, they die very fast, I can go through 4 battery in a day, even more... while my dual battery mod will last me all day.
For SS, yes you can glow it (dry burn but only until you see it glow as little as possible, as more than that will not be that good for it)
But I've learned that SS is terrible for TC with small and single coils, it simply heats up too fast (and if wattage too low, doesn't heat up right), so I keep it for my dual coil builds, then it works great in TC.
The big difference with SS is that it's resistance is closer to TI/Khantal in terms of coil/wraps.
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