TC, sub-ohm, dual-batt quick question....

[Trayce]

Hey folks.... if using nickel build sub-ohm coil @ .2 ohms in a dual 18650 batt mod (e.g. Vaporflask) with TC... is the discharge rate split between the two batts? Meaning...

4.2/.2 = 21A continuous discharge rate. So batt should be rated higher (ideally 20% higher to be safe from what I have read) than 21A continuous discharge, but most are rated at 20A CD rate, with a "pulse rate' that is sometimes higher.

But is the above equation based on a single batt? Like if using a dual-batt mod, is each batt discharging @ 10.5A (x2=21A) ... meaning 20A-rated batts would be fine? TIA

 

[Trayce]

Sort of a followup... I never sub-ohm'd before and am only exploring it now b/c I need a new mod and TC seems safer in that it keeps the cotton wick from burning or the juice from super-heating (provided you have it set somewhere reasonable). Yet the sticky in this forum says in part:

It is possible that the super-heating of e-liquids that takes place in an RBA run at less than 1 ohm may create some toxic materials. Tests have shown that these coils, in normal use, can reach more than three times the temperature of regular atomizers (which normally run at 60C to 70C) [3].

Since TC currently needs nickel, the coils end up sub-ohm and a popular TC setting seems to be 350F range. 70C = about 158F [I would guess my Vamo's coil gets much hotter with chain vaping, but I don't know]. Point is, vaping nickel builds on a TC mod @ 350F is indeed twice as hot as regular vaping (e.g. kanthal @ 1.7 / 6watts)... Yet the wick won't burn with TC and my wick DOES end up a little charred with the "lower heat" kanthan 1.7 setup... so is TC arguably, marginally healthier assuming reasonable settings? Or not?

I realize the sticky was written prior to TC and isn't really about this exactly, but ... ? Thanks.

 

[KenD]

With regulated mods the resistance of the coil doesn't factor into the amp draw, only set wattage and battery charge level (lower charge = higher amp draw) do. Check the battery calculator at steam-engine.org.

As for your second question; no way that regular coils run as low as 60-70c. If water boils of as you drip it on the coil you're at over 100c. Any coils can reach high temperatures. It depends on the construction of the atty, the airflow, and the power applied. A basic clearo will reach much higher temperatures than an RDA with good airflow at the same wattage.

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk

 

[Trayce]

Thanks Ken, for answering my first question. So I assume the Samsung INR 18650 25Rs (high drain, 2500mAH, 20A continuous discharge,100A pulse discharge) will be fine for the IPV4S I just ordered.

As to this...

As for your second question; no way that regular coils run as low as 60-70c.

That's what I thought, but that's what the sticky here says.. the sticky regarding the warnings about sub-ohm vaping.

If water boils of as you drip it on the coil you're at over 100c. Any coils can reach high temperatures. It depends on the construction of the atty, the airflow, and the power applied. A basic clearo will reach much higher temperatures than an RDA with good airflow at the same wattage.

Yes, many factors figure into how hot a standard kanthal coil gets... juice, watts, build, airflow, etc... but on average I feel like my RDAs get pretty hot with chain vaping -- hot enough to char or discolor the cotton after an evening's heavy use. Or two.

Guess my main question after reading the sticky here warning that super-heated sub-ohm vaping potentially releases different and more hazardous substances is... (and again the sticky was written before termperature control and so referred probably mostly to mech sub-ohming)... but for me sub-ohming on a regulated mod with TC... and not going crazy with it... nickel builds at .5ohm at maybe 275-300w with 100% VG in a Lemo Drop or Velocity RDA/RDTA... I was thinking it would be potentially SAFER due to the TC keeping the coil/juice/cotton from overheating (no burned wicks etc). Of course 'safer' assumes standard precautions of using genuine brand name batts, testing attys before vaping, etc... But am I mistaken? All else being equal, is kanthal @ 1+ohms really giving a "cooler" vape (temp-wise) than sub-ohming with TC?