RDA Temp Control and RDA's with large airflow

[clasicks]

Hello!

Was wondering how you guys have been combating the use of rda's with high volume air flow and using temp control. I am finding it difficult to get a warm hit without cranking up the temp. Is this what i should be doing to get them to work? I have 30g tempered Ni200 and 26g Annealed Ni200. any recommendations would be awesome.

Thanks!

 

[Michigan Chucker]

Yeah. I'm finding that a issue also. I'm using mutation x v4, and I want clouds. So I open it up but seems super airy. Was going to actually come on and make a thread about it.
When I turn up temp. juice starts to go to quick

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[RandyF]

You are trying to get the same vape from nickel that you get from kanthal/nichrome, but with temp control that just isn't going to happen, at least if used as intended. A warm dense vape is created from high temps, so if you want to replicate that with nickel you are going to have to allow the wire to heat up more, at that point though, you might as well use kanthal.

Using nickel correctly to get a safer vape means you have to compromise. It is up to you as to what is more important, safety or a warmer, denser vape.

 

[clasicks]

You are trying to get the same vape from nickel that you get from kanthal/nichrome, but with temp control that just isn't going to happen, at least if used as intended. A warm dense vape is created from high temps, so if you want to replicate that with nickel you are going to have to allow the wire to heat up more, at that point though, you might as well use kanthal.

Using nickel correctly to get a safer vape means you have to compromise. It is up to you as to what is more important, safety or a warmer, denser vape.

yup yup, thats what i figured! i am having fun pulling out retired attys that were lacking airflow for the larger kanthal builds

 

[Michigan Chucker]

You are trying to get the same vape from nickel that you get from kanthal/nichrome, but with temp control that just isn't going to happen, at least if used as intended. A warm dense vape is created from high temps, so if you want to replicate that with nickel you are going to have to allow the wire to heat up more, at that point though, you might as well use kanthal.

Using nickel correctly to get a safer vape means you have to compromise. It is up to you as to what is more important, safety or a warmer, denser vape.

Dense. Lol I care now about density and large clouds.
Heat is no issue.
So because I have a tc mod. (Now have the ti coil that came with it, in) I need to bump to,,550?600? To get that

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[RandyF]

Dense. Lol I care now about density and large clouds.
Heat is no issue.
So because I have a tc mod. (Now have the ti coil that came with it, in) I need to bump to,,550?600? To get that

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Not sure I understand the point you are trying got make? If you want thick (dense) large clouds, then yes, you need heat. The more you limit the heat, the thinner the vapor is.

So if I understand you correctly, yes, the higher you set the temp, the closer you will get to what you are use to from kanthal. Another factor is the watt limit on your mod. If you have a max of 40 watts, you might have a hard time pushing the coil hard enough anyway.

 

[Michigan Chucker]

60w. But, yes.. I guess I'm still New that I don't understand the correlation between watts n clouds and temp n clouds. I was under impression watts just have it faster ramp up in heat. 600° is highest my temp will go. I practice my in/exhaling @60w, 530° tastes like burnt poo but idc lol

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[gpjoe]

I had four temperature control mods and this is why I sold them all. The temp control mods were a MUCH cooler vape due to the mod shutting off at a pre-set temperature - and if I turned up the temp, it would shut off sooner I couldn't even get a decent lung hit off the mods before it shut off - many times in the middle of a hit. I'm done with temp control. I guess it's a nice idea but poorly executed, IMO. I'll risk one dry hit every couple of days with my Kanthal coils.

 

[Nikea Tiber]

Getting a good TC vape off an RDA is definitely possible. There are a lot of factors to consider though, and a few variables express the same symptoms.

The electrical connection.

I will assume the 510 threads of your mod and Atty have been cleaned off with 91%+ isopropyl alcohol. As long as it is threading on and the threads are clean, ground is good.
Make sure the positive 510 pin of your attt is clean. Make sure the 510 post on your mod is clean, and if it is spring loaded make sure the spring is working and has enough travel to make a good connection to your attys positive pin.
None of the posts on your atomizer wiggle or spin, right?

This may be a bit of a pain in the neck, but your TC chip needs to read resistance all the way to and through your atomizer to thousandths of an ohm, so every electromechanical connection is important.

The screws your Atty uses to secure the coil to its posts are actually really important as well. The screws on the mutation x v4 aren't that great for tc. They tend to amputate or mar wire thinner than 30 awg in my experience, and ni200 doesn't seem as tough to me as kanthal of a similar awg.
If you can't find grub screws wrapping 180° around the screw above the post and trapping the wire between the button head and post top will give you a better connection.
Another solution is to make small splints of larger kanthal to go through the screw post hole parallel and above/with the ni wire so the kanthal protects the ni from the screw.

As long as you have a stable connection and you have wound a good coil within your mods resistance specifications your mod can apply wattage to heat the coil with the least amount of interference.

There are two factors that cool your coil: airflow and ejuice evaporation.

The second is important because an under wicked tc coil will hit TC and throttle watts once the juice evaporates, or almost immediately if there are spots that don't contact the wick through its entire absorbancy range. So you get a tootle (no offense to tootle puffers).

Once you have you wicking dialed it is pretty much airflow and coil positioning in relation to airflow.

The mxv4 is nice because you can play around with bottom and side air flow and it has a pretty big/easy build deck, stock button head screws notwithstanding.

I didn't think it would be anything special but the derringer is great for tc builds (great for kanthal as well).

 

[clasicks]

ive started to do wider diameter on my coils and builds with more wraps - this has had very NICE improvements on the vape i enjoy.

 

[Nikea Tiber]

I rarely build a coil with an inner diameter of less than 3mm now. It seems to wick better or at least is easier to get the right amount of cotton/rayon into (without over or under stuffing) and keep up with juice feed nicely. I try not to build coils wider than the airflow ports on my atty.
28 awg ni200 is the largest wire I'll use because any larger and build sizes for a reasonable resistance start to get too large for most decks.

Coil mass plays a large role at how "smooth" the perceived TC vape is as well.