How do you guys run your ipv 4 with the ni200? i do a 28g ni200 with 28g kanthal twisted at 465° with organic cotton. Any suggestions for other builds?
Temp control ipv 4
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I'm sorry that I don't have anything to add but I am curious as to how you like using the ni200. I haven't tried any nickel builds yet would like to know what the biggest difference is to Kanthal. Things like, is the flavor that much better? More vapor? Your overall feel of it. Thanks
Honestly I get a mich cleaner taste from it since it doesnt get hot enough to char my wicking material, It is a little harder to work with than kanthal but is worth it in the end I personally have only been using ni200 for a week or so and have yet to experiment with it much. From what I am told though it is a big no no to use it on a device without temperature regulation.
From what I understand, the reason why it is a big no no to use it on a device without temperature control is because if the nickel coil heats up too much, the wire will actually melt (not melt in the sense where you will have a little pool of molten nickel in your tank, but the coil will deform and unwind as if it was made from thread and not metal wire).
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Alright, first things first. Ni200 has a melting point of a few THOUSAND degrees. It melting is not why it isnt safe to use on a temp control device. It has to do with the fumes produced at temperatures over ~700F. Look up the MSDS on Ni200, its pretty safe under normal conditions.
I use dual 13 wraps around an M3 screw. Gives perfectly spaced wraps and it keeps my readins consistant.
I use dual 13 wraps around an M3 screw. Gives perfectly spaced wraps and it keeps my readins consistant.
It makes it easier to work with. I don't use it, the jury is still out about if it changes the readings at all and ito me, its more trouble than its worth.
The one thing about using nickel and temperature control is that you have to modify how you vape if you're a chain vaper. If you chain vape with a temp control mod and a nickel coil, you won't give the coil enough time between vapes to cool down, so the temp control will kick in earlier and earlier since each subsequent draw will start at a higher temperature and will take less time to heat up to the point that temp protection kicks in and the wattage drops. So if the coil is heated enough to the point where temp protection kicks in as soon as you hit the fire button, you will basically be vaping at anywhere from 7-12 watts.
Sorry I really don't get that If you retain the max temperature why does it matter how many watts are getting consumed surely the vapor production should stay the same..... I understand that the amount of watts has an effect on the vapor production but that is simply due to the temperature of the coil vaporizing the eliquid so if you keep that at a relive constant why should vapor production be reduced...... are you say that the lag from the temperature control can't keep up with a few decent lung hits? ..... also you can always up the temperature control to 600 deg and then surely it must vape for the best part just like an normal mod dry hits and all!
Also I really do not get this 28g ni200 with 28g kanthal build coil surely due to the low resistance of the ni200 nearly all the watts will flow through that resulting in the ni200 just heating the kanthal. I doubt at any point the ni200 wire would get to a point that its resistance would be anywhere near equal to the Kanthal 28g. Thus does the Kanthal just act as a method of increasing surface area to increase vapour production but also increase the time it takes to get to a higher temperature or is it just a meant to be a neat trick to make ni200 coil build a bit easier?
Sorry guys really new to this all just had to ask. Cheers
This isn't true at all. You can chain vape all you want. The mod calculates the resistance of the coil, and adjusts power accordingly. Ni200 increases its resistance substantially as it is heated, so if it reads higher than what was originally registered, it knows its hot. That is why it's so important to make sure your coils are nice and cool before you place it on your mod.
Yer that was my understand! and just to further clarify the point you were making i believe coils need to be the same temperature as the mod box, ie if the mod box is warm it will also be temp control will also be off!
Well, theoretically yes. However, I let mine sit for about 30 minutes before I attach them. Any difference in temperature will be negilible at that point.
Sorry this is sort of dangerously incorrect as far as i understand the facts (FYR this forum needs Rep so people know if there taking to an expert or a noob like me before the do something crazy)
1. Ni200 will start the process of Graphitization at around 600F thus the 600 limit (but in general it will only produce notable amount at 800°F+) This stuff is bad for you and this is also why you are not meant to heat the wire up with a blow torch when making the coil. Temp control protects you from this.
2. The low ohms could destroy most standard mods or mechs and could lead to battery failure most mods are not designed to handle say a 0.1ohm coil where as a DNA 40 or im sure other temp control chips can support coils down to these ohms. Thus you need to be seriously careful if you dont have a temp control box and you want to use ni200 coil
Some exsample of mods that CAN NOT handle Ni200 coils
MVP V3.0 0.4 Ohm minimum
Istick 30w 0.5 ohms minimum
The list go's on will battery explode in you face or will it just die i have no idea but i recommend you do NOT try!
While at 600F graphitization will occur, it will not precipitate Graphite until 800F. But, that's just getting picky.
So is using nickel worth the trouble? Does it make such a great difference in my vape that it's something I need to have? If there's only a slight upgrade to Kanthal then it's not worth it to me. Does nickel save battery life? I'm just interested in the benefit of it.
And you cited two mods that cannot handle nickel coils and yet neglected the fact that those are regulated mods and will not fire a coil that is lower than their minimum resistances. So if you stick a 0.15 ohm nickel coil on a MVP or an iStick, the mod won't fire. It's not going to explode in your face.
Are you using temperature control?
Simple answer is you must use nickel for temperature control. Temperature control does not work with Kanthal. If you're not using temperature control then you should not use nickel.
And here is proof. I stuck my Origen V2 RDA with a 0.107 ohm nickel coil onto my IPV Mini 2. I press the fire button and I get this.
My battery didn't blow up on me. My hand is still intact. My house is still in one piece. My mod simply did not fire because the resistance is lower than the minimum resistance accepted by the mod.
Now the thing is....the evic-VT accepts a minimum resistance in temp control mode of 0.05 ohms, and 0.15 ohms in power (kanthal) mode. If I stick a 0.15 ohm nickel coil on it and switch it off of temp control, I have no idea what would happen. I would assume that it would fire, but like @itskohler said, it would probably exceed the safe temperature and start giving off all those nasties.
fair point I expected they would some protection.... but you have missed the actual point that is its just not safe...... I did not mean to offend you I just wanted to point out some issues as i understood them.....
But back to the OP what does adding Kanthal +ni200 wire achieve in a temp mod..... Tempted to try one of these coils! sound interesting !
But back to the OP what does adding Kanthal +ni200 wire achieve in a temp mod..... Tempted to try one of these coils! sound interesting !
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