Temp Control - Newb question

Status
Not open for further replies.

jimbovia

New Member
Feb 20, 2018
2
5
48
I understand that there are different theories on whether to lock the resistance or not.

Assume that I am going to lock the resistance.

Do I lock the resistance on a cold coil...with juice in the tank, or before I put juice in the tank?

I am using a DNA75C board mod, and will be trying TC with a Mesh Pro tank and the SS316L coil.

My assumption is, since I can't find one word on the subject, that since most people pre-soak their coil before installing it, that I should lock the resistance with the tank filled up.

Thanks in advance for the help.
Jim
 
  • Like
Reactions: stols001

Beamslider

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 29, 2017
3,895
11,502
San Francisco
I don't bother locking it with the board you are using. New coils tend to change slightly in resistance when burnt in a little. Also that board seems to work the change out on its own. While it might not be the best ideal to do so that board allows you to adjust the resistance on the mod.

If you do lock it, lock it at room temperature after it has been burnt in.
 
  • Like
Reactions: stols001

Eskie

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 6, 2016
16,087
77,743
NY
The general recommendation on DNA boards is to not lock the resistance as it continually refines as you use it. Locking is only reserved for an unstable resting resistance. Although I'd rather identify and correct the reason for the instability, but I guess if you're out and about locking it might be the only short term solution you have. However, other TC boards may require you to lock the cold resistance for best performance.
 

Hawise

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 25, 2013
1,660
4,267
AB, Canada
I agree with everyone who says there's no need to lock your resistance on a DNA mod. However, to address the question you actually asked...

I would lock it with the tank full. As has been said, there shouldn't be any difference in the coil's resistance whether or not the tank is full. However, with an empty tank the coil will heat up (and change its resistance) very easily. I think it would be too easy to accidentally send a little power through the coil before locking it and wind up locking with the resistance too high. I'd therefore wait until the wick was saturated before locking.
 
  • Useful
Reactions: stols001

United States

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 17, 2018
1,888
6,388
RVA
Instead of starting another thread I'll ask here. I hope that is ok.

I'm a wattage user who is considering temperature control.
I am an MTL user who "watt's" 13-13.5 watts.

What would be a good starting temperature to achieve a nice cool vape but still get a similar production from the watts I use?

Thanks for any response.
 
  • Like
Reactions: stols001

akiraceos

Full Member
Oct 12, 2013
24
50
Sarawak, Malaysia.
Instead of starting another thread I'll ask here. I hope that is ok.

I'm a wattage user who is considering temperature control.
I am an MTL user who "watt's" 13-13.5 watts.

What would be a good starting temperature to achieve a nice cool vape but still get a similar production from the watts I use?

Thanks for any response.

Hello,

Firstly, what mod are u using? Different mods have different 'settings (TCR values) for the material you're using. And because of that, temperature inaccuracies between different vendors . I'd recommend starting off at 350F, and increase it until u like it :)

would be easier if u could provide type of coil (SS clapton, round build, etc).

Cheers,
Niche Vapes.
 

Baditude

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Apr 8, 2012
30,394
73,072
70
Ridgeway, Ohio
I'm using Kanthall drop in's by Innokin on a Kroma, a YiHi SX Mini SL Class, an Aegis 100 and a Jac Vapour Sandstorm that have TC ability. My Rover X does not have TC ability as far as I know.
Kanthal is incompatible for TC. You'll need stainless steel, titanium, or Ni200 coils.
 

United States

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 17, 2018
1,888
6,388
RVA
I looked up kanthall and temp control and the internet said it was "the original temp control coil'...
Hey it was on the internet so it must be true, right? :w00t:

I tried my Kroma on 250F ss, ti and ni (knowing that aint Kanthall) Vape was way too hot compared to my 13 watt setting. Seemed more like 25-30 watts when compared with one Kroma on TC and the other (usually boxed away) on watts.

I'm hoping to mimic a factory set TC only pod I recently began using.

Sounds like TC aint for me. Or at least using a Zenith tank.

Thanks for the help. :thumb:
 

untar

Vaping Master
Feb 7, 2018
3,406
17,583
Germany
the internet said it was "the original temp control coil'...
I'm not sure where you found that statement but the overwhelming majority of "the internet" will tell you that Ni200 was the original TC wire.

While it's not impossible to design a chip/board that can do TC with Kanthal it's a totally different kind of beast (the resistance change of Kanthal is ridiculously small so you need to use a different approach) and to my knowledge only 2 manufacturers have done that (dicodes and hohmtech).
Every other mod doesn't do TC with Kanthal.
 

stols001

Moved On
ECF Veteran
May 30, 2017
29,338
108,118
I use low temperature ceilings for MTL TC, like 350ish. Ramp up (if you mod has it) stays the same as my usual wattage.

However this is moot because you have to get a SS, Nickle or Titanium wire or drop in coil, the Zenith doesn't have one. There are some easy to use and nice RTAs for MTL if you want to try it. The Siren is my favorite and also easy to use.

Once you get the right coil type, you can then play around, everyone is different, etc. etc. But, as of this moment the Zenith doesn't have a TC coil and it won't workout well regardless of your settings. Etc.

Anna
 
  • Like
Reactions: My Batt Hurts

United States

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Aug 17, 2018
1,888
6,388
RVA
Thanks Anna,

I've found a style I like, a tank, a couple of flavors and a couple of devices to cook them at a wattage I enjoy.

Think I'll leave it at that versus a potentially ¢o$tly quest for that perfect metal to provide a zap of electricity to my sauce while tweaking the ramp ups, ramp downs curves all to mimic a pod that doesn't even have a fire button.

Bytheway untar, I was just kidding bro.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread