Temp Control

[sbmqcy]

I've been happily running dual coils around .5 ohms in my REOs, but I've decided to check out the temp control thing with an Evic-vt that I'm waiting for now. There's a couple questions I have about temp control while I'm waiting.

Im looking for a rebuildable tank to use with temp control. It seems like everyone doing temp control is running a single coil setup. Why not dual coils? If the devices are measuring the resistance, calculating based on the known resistance of a certain type of wire, and then dynamically modulating the current applied to keep the temp of the wire consistent, why can't the same thing be done with dual coils?

Ive seen that many folks using temp control devices like the lemo v2. Are there any other single coil tanks that people are using for temp control? If there's no reason why dual coils aren't workable for temp control, what are some good dual coil tank options out there?

Thanks in advance, and if I've posted this is the wrong sub forum, sorry and feel free to move it.


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[Mad Scientist]

I'm running dual nickel coils in my dual coil RTAs. No problems or issues noticed other than you do need a lot of wire to get the resistance high enough. Right now a typical dual coil build is 10 wraps of 26 AWG NI200 on a #38 drill bit (about 2.5 mm drill bit). With the dual coil, final resistance ends up at 0.06x ohms which is just right (with the x being dependent on how you wrap and set your coils).

I think in theory, if one coil is wicking great and the other not so great, the TC can't compensate for the one coil that will get too hot -- it's going to see basically an average of the two temperatures of the coils. Hasn't given me a problem but something to consider.

 

[sbmqcy]

That's interesting. What tank are you using? I haven't used a tank for over a year, and then it was iClears and original Kanger tanks. I figured that I'd want a dual coil tank, if possible, to more closely approximate the flavor and vapor production of my odins.


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[Treeburner1983]

Many people using TC mods are using devices that require a resistance of at least 0.1ohm. To get dual nickel coils over 0.1ohm you'd need to be wrapping the coils with 30g or smaller wire, and that small nickel is very flimsy and not so much fun to work with.

If you're using a device with a minimum resistance of 0.05ohm like the IPV4, you'll have a much easier time with dual coils since you can use 28 or even 26g nickel.

Also, as Mad Scientist said, the device is calculating the temperature based on the resistance change over both coils, so they better be EXACTLY the same. And without being able to dry fire to check the symmetry it's dependant on your building ability.

-Treeburner

 

[sbmqcy]

Oh I see. So unless I really feel like a coiling ninja, I'm probably better off using a single coil tank.
I'd always read that the Kayfuns were better for mouth to lung vapers. I'm a lung hitter, and I'd read that the Lemo v2 was good for temp control and lung hits. Are there others to look at?


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[Treeburner1983]

Oh I see. So unless I really feel like a coiling ninja, I'm probably better off using a single coil tank.
I'd always read that the Kayfuns were better for mouth to lung vapers. I'm a lung hitter, and I'd read that the Lemo v2 was good for temp control and lung hits. Are there others to look at?


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My Lemo v2 is my go to TC tank, but if you use the post holes (which I do) you'll need to adjust the temperature up to account for the longer legs. Also, when using the post holes I reinforce the legs with a piece of 316L stainless wire through the post to prevent the screws from clipping the soft nickel.

Built my fiancée's Subtank Mini RBA with 28g nickel and it's working great on her Kangxin Mini VF.

- Treeburner

 

[Mad Scientist]

That's interesting. What tank are you using? I haven't used a tank for over a year, and then it was iClears and original Kanger tanks. I figured that I'd want a dual coil tank, if possible, to more closely approximate the flavor and vapor production of my odins.


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I sometimes take an Orchid v2 to the bar (tiny discrete topper but abysmal juice capacity) and right now I'm really digging the Billow v2 as a tank with decent capacity for at work or at home. I really like drippers and my favorite right now is a Smok xpure I got on sale about a week ago and I drilled it out to 1/8" (and installed a dual coil nickel build). I like the way it looks, like the ceramic deck with air slots instead of holes, and I love the pyrex drip tip. The variable air valve thing is a gimmick but it doesn't interfere with anything once the main hole is drilled out to where you want it.

I can't recommend the Orchid v2 unless you want something of small stature. It is a fantastic vape but needs a refill like every half hour and it has the bottom fill screw (Stone Age lol). I sometimes take it to the bar with me because it is short and discrete and holds enough juice for a puff here and there but I'm still self-conscious of using a box mod in public. Despite the popularity of vaping generally, not many people are familiar with it and I usually quickly tire of any attention when I don't want it. Maybe next time I'll go for broke and bring a dripper with some max VG juice -- news will report a fog bank rolling in lol.

 

[sbmqcy]

Besides lung hitting friendly, and great flavor, I also need all-day capacity and bulletproof leak prevention. So I want a unicorn. With purple hair and sparkly hooves. That'll make my little girl happy.


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[fogmust]

I run my Squapes with TC and I like them a lot with nickel. A lot of people in the Squape thread do that, too.
I am still to try Ti, but that has its fair share of fans as well.

 

[Taowulf]

I sometimes take an Orchid v2 to the bar (tiny discrete topper but abysmal juice capacity) and right now I'm really digging the Billow v2 as a tank with decent capacity for at work or at home. I really like drippers and my favorite right now is a Smok xpure I got on sale about a week ago and I drilled it out to 1/8" (and installed a dual coil nickel build). I like the way it looks, like the ceramic deck with air slots instead of holes, and I love the pyrex drip tip. The variable air valve thing is a gimmick but it doesn't interfere with anything once the main hole is drilled out to where you want it.

I can't recommend the Orchid v2 unless you want something of small stature. It is a fantastic vape but needs a refill like every half hour and it has the bottom fill screw (Stone Age lol). I sometimes take it to the bar with me because it is short and discrete and holds enough juice for a puff here and there but I'm still self-conscious of using a box mod in public. Despite the popularity of vaping generally, not many people are familiar with it and I usually quickly tire of any attention when I don't want it. Maybe next time I'll go for broke and bring a dripper with some max VG juice -- news will report a fog bank rolling in lol.

You can always top fill the orchid by removing the top, covering the air holes with your fingers and fill it that way...juice loss is minimal. Just have to blow it out a little into a towel or napkin.

As far as the OP's question goes, I have gone with the Lemo, Lemo 2 and Subtank plus for temp control build. All three work well, with the flavor being the best on the Lemo, then the Lemo 2 and finally the Subtank Plus. Even though the plus isn't the best, it can still pretty good...just not with the factory coil heads. Not happy with them at all. I got some to compare with a .05 26ga nickel build I did a few days ago and they are inferior in every way. Of course, the IPV4 and SX Mini M Class let me go that low, some devices will not.