Many people are reporting problems with the spring loaded center pin on the new Russian 91% v2 atomizers giving them erratic resistance readings. The spring loaded moving part seems to be the culprit because it does not always make good contact with the main part of the center pin. So far, the only fix I have seen is to buy an expensive v1 center pin to replace the defective spring loaded one. Please forgive me if someone else has already posted this, I searched every way I could think of and didn't find anything like this.
I just did this about 30 minutes ago, so I cannot speak as to exactly how temporary this fix is. Unfortunately, I do not have a camera that will take good pictures of these small parts, so I will try to describe it the best that I can.
I took some 28 gauge nickel nr (non resistance) wire and wrapped it around the small shaft of the spring loaded end of the center pin 4 times. It is very important that you use non resistance wire for this part. Then, I twisted the two ends together as tightly as I could with my fingers. Holding the twist with small needle-nosed pliers as close to the wraps as possible, I continued twisting until the wires broke off. I built a new 12 wrap, 28 gauge Kanthal coil on a 5/64" drill bit and placed it in the atomizer. When the flat tip of the spring loaded pin is pressed in, it now sandwiches the wire wraps between the tip and the main part of the center pin. This way, we are bypassing the part of the pin that is not making good, consistent contact. Now I am reading 1.3 ohms on my Provari and it moves to 1.5 ohms as the coil heats up. This is perfectly acceptable to me.
While four wraps worked for me on the Provari, you may have to experiment with different amounts of wraps on the center pin for your mod. Also, be very careful to make sure the wraps and twists of nr wire on the center pin are as tight as possible. If the wire wraps from the center pin touch anything but the center pin, you will have a dead short. If you are using a vv protected mod, it will give you an error if there is a short. Make sure you know what you are doing if you try this on a mech.
If anyone would like to try this and post pictures, I would greatly appreciate it. Any questions and corrections are most certainly welcome.
I just did this about 30 minutes ago, so I cannot speak as to exactly how temporary this fix is. Unfortunately, I do not have a camera that will take good pictures of these small parts, so I will try to describe it the best that I can.
I took some 28 gauge nickel nr (non resistance) wire and wrapped it around the small shaft of the spring loaded end of the center pin 4 times. It is very important that you use non resistance wire for this part. Then, I twisted the two ends together as tightly as I could with my fingers. Holding the twist with small needle-nosed pliers as close to the wraps as possible, I continued twisting until the wires broke off. I built a new 12 wrap, 28 gauge Kanthal coil on a 5/64" drill bit and placed it in the atomizer. When the flat tip of the spring loaded pin is pressed in, it now sandwiches the wire wraps between the tip and the main part of the center pin. This way, we are bypassing the part of the pin that is not making good, consistent contact. Now I am reading 1.3 ohms on my Provari and it moves to 1.5 ohms as the coil heats up. This is perfectly acceptable to me.
While four wraps worked for me on the Provari, you may have to experiment with different amounts of wraps on the center pin for your mod. Also, be very careful to make sure the wraps and twists of nr wire on the center pin are as tight as possible. If the wire wraps from the center pin touch anything but the center pin, you will have a dead short. If you are using a vv protected mod, it will give you an error if there is a short. Make sure you know what you are doing if you try this on a mech.
If anyone would like to try this and post pictures, I would greatly appreciate it. Any questions and corrections are most certainly welcome.
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