Tested the voltage of my ego... quick questions..

[Zach904]

I just got a voltage/ohm reader for my new mech mod and decided to see what my ego tested at when full and completely depleted. It tested at 3.7 fully charged and 3.2 depleted. Does this sound about right? I have the long ego with usb passthru. Not sure exactly which battery size it is, they don't mark size on the ego.. My T3S tank was registering at 2.10 ohms. How do I find the wattage?

Thanks in advance for any input yall might have..

 

[bencooper74]

I think its (v*v)/ohms to get watts.
so (3.7*3.7)/2.1 = 6.5watts

 

[Kent C]

There's a difference between voltage and voltage underload (ie with a coil hooked up), so there are 'regulated' and unregulated voltages. You need certain tools to measure underload voltage. Regular multimeter will read regulated or unregulated voltages as 3.7v. Some batts run at 3.7V underload and Joye eGo's have a few different choices. Most Joye eGos are regulated to @3.4 volts. The Joye eGo-c and t 'upgrade' batts have two modes - one regulated at the 3.4V and one that is unregulated at 3.7V. Other clone/knockoffs eGo batts can be anything.

 

[mobocracy]

My understanding (and I'm not saying I'm right, either) was that regulated voltage didn't refer to adapting to load but that the battery operated something like a variable voltage battery except that its locked (regulated) to a specific voltage. So it starts out at the regulated voltage when the battery is fully charged and operates at that voltage until the battery can't put out enough power to drive it there.

Unregulated just means it drops with the loss of battery charge through the entire power range of the cell.

In both cases the devices don't change output in response to the resistance presented by the attachment (which in practice probably changes slightly as the coil heats up).

I don't own one, but my understanding is that some variable wattage mods do continuously adjust power output as long as the button is pressed, which would mean they adjust voltage to match in-use variances in resistance to maintain constant power (wattage).

 

[Zach904]

Hmm. Im a little confused lol. But thanks so much for providing this information. My ego does not have controllable voltage.. Considering it measured at 3.7 and was at 3.2 when it would no longer work without charging, I guess I have an unregulated ego? Im pretty sure its a real ego, was a starter kit that came with the ego case... So based off of what Kent said, its unregulated. Is it true that the formula for finding wattage is voltage x voltage divided by ohms?

 

[bencooper74]

Yes sounds like you the unregulated ego. And i double checked that equation...it is correct.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Rickajho]

Also, real Joyetech eGos are PWM devices operating at 33 Hz. A meter not designed to "interpret" PWM can't give you an accurate voltage reading. (Well, as best you can define "accurate" when it comes to PWM output devices.) A lot of those screw-on voltage meters are usually sold with that disclaimer.

 

[Talyon]

My joyetech ego-c twists measure @ 4.2 fully charged, and 3.7 when they need charging.

 

[Wow1420]

With unregulated batteries, the voltage output follows the actual voltage of the battery, they come off the charger at 4.2 volts and the voltage gradually decreases to the cut-off point (often around 3.3, but this depends on the circuit design).

Regulated (non-variable) batteries hold their voltage steady until the battery is too weak to do so.

Voltage can drop "under load" of an atomizer with both regulated and un-regulated, the amount of drop varies with the current output capability of the battery and the resistive load of the atomizer.

 

[Kent C]

Hmm. Im a little confused lol. But thanks so much for providing this information. My ego does not have controllable voltage.. Considering it measured at 3.7 and was at 3.2 when it would no longer work without charging, I guess I have an unregulated ego? Im pretty sure its a real ego, was a starter kit that came with the ego case... So based off of what Kent said, its unregulated. Is it true that the formula for finding wattage is voltage x voltage divided by ohms?

When measured with a multimeter, all 3.7V batts regulated or unregulated will still read @4.2V off the charger, 3.6-3.8 for most of the charger and then 3.2V at the end of a charge. If you have a Joye eGo that is not a Twist or an 'upgrade' batt in the unregulated mode, then the batt will run at around 3.3-3.4Volts underload - ie with a coil from an atty/carto/clearo attached. You have to have special equipment to measure 'underload' voltages, esp. with eGos.

 

[Wow1420]

There's a difference between voltage and voltage underload (ie with a coil hooked up), so there are 'regulated' and unregulated voltages. You need certain tools to measure underload voltage. Regular multimeter will read regulated or unregulated voltages as 3.7v. Some batts run at 3.7V underload and Joye eGo's have a few different choices. Most Joye eGos are regulated to @3.4 volts. The Joye eGo-c and t 'upgrade' batts have two modes - one regulated at the 3.4V and one that is unregulated at 3.7V. Other clone/knockoffs eGo batts can be anything.

When measured with a multimeter, all 3.7V batts regulated or unregulated will still read @4.2V off the charger, 3.6-3.8 for most of the charger and then 3.2V at the end of a charge. If you have a Joye eGo that is not a Twist or an 'upgrade' batt in the unregulated mode, then the batt will run at around 3.3-3.4Volts underload - ie with a coil from an atty/carto/clearo attached. You have to have special equipment to measure 'underload' voltages, esp. with eGos.

Unless I'm mis-understanding what you are trying to say, that's not correct. A regulated ego-style right off the charger measures 3.7 - 3.8 (or 3.4V for the old Joye ones). An un-regulated ego reads 4.2 volts fresh off the charger.
You seem to be confusing regulation with voltage drop under load.

 

[Chessiesmile]

This is how I determine watts. No math involved perfect. lol

 

[Wow1420]

Hmm. Im a little confused lol. But thanks so much for providing this information. My ego does not have controllable voltage.. Considering it measured at 3.7 and was at 3.2 when it would no longer work without charging, I guess I have an unregulated ego? Im pretty sure its a real ego, was a starter kit that came with the ego case... So based off of what Kent said, its unregulated. Is it true that the formula for finding wattage is voltage x voltage divided by ohms?

There are two types of regulation. One is a buck/boost circuit that will keep the battery output at the specified voltage throughout the useful life of the battery. When the internal battery is fully charged at 4.2 volts, output is regulated down to 3.7 volts (buck). The internal battery voltage gradually runs down, and once it's under 3.7 volts the boost part of the regulation takes over and increases the output voltage to 3.7. APVs like Vamo do this.

Simple regulation caps the voltage output to 3.7 volts, but allows the output voltage to drop with the internal battery voltage once it's under 3.7 volts. I believe most regulated ego (clones) use this type of regulation. It sounds like the battery in your kit is this type.

 

[Kent C]

Unless I'm mis-understanding what you are trying to say, that's not correct. A regulated ego-style right off the charger measures 3.7 - 3.8 (or 3.4V for the old Joye ones). An un-regulated ego reads 4.2 volts fresh off the charger.
You seem to be confusing regulation with voltage drop under load.

I may be stating it incorrectly but a regulated eGo runs at 3.4Volts, and unregulated at 3.7V underload. The eGo-c upgrade batt runs at a constant 3.4V in one mode and a 3.7 unregulated mode in the other. There's a definite difference 'underload' for both modes. Earlier, all Joyes rated 3.7V ran @3.2-3.4 underload. The Riva SE also a 3.7V batt ran at 3.7V underload - just as the 'variable mode' in the eGo-c upgrade batt.

Joyetech uses the terms 'constant' and 'variable' for the upgrade batt but using 'variable' for the one mode tends to confuse things with the Twist. In the case of the upgrade, their term 'variable' only means that the batt goes through the normal 3.7V batt curve - @4.2 Volts off the charger, 3.6-3.8V for the most part of the charge and 3.2V at the end. Whereas the Twist is a truly variable voltage batt where you dial in the voltage. So for the upgrade I use the terms regulated (which it is) for the constant mode, and unregulated (it bypasses the regulated circuitry to provide the 3.7V) for the 'variable' mode. It's not the same as regulated and unregulated non-proprietary batts like the 14500, 18650 etc. I realize that.

The main point about the question in determining wattage is that although the eGo batt is considered at 3.7V batt and will measure that way with a multimeter, the underload wattage is around 3.4V, so in determining wattage, it is more accurate to use the 3.4V for eGos, except the eGo-c upgrade in the 'variable mode' or the Twist of course.

 

[kachuge]

hey guys, I just started a post on something related to this myself............. and you're all going to disagree with me I'm sure.....

I have about a half dozen ego-c upgrade batteries, made by joytech...... not copies, actually joytech.....

and they have the option to run at a variable voltage and reduce voltage as they wear down
OR
they can be made to produce a fixed voltage only.......... this is my preferred method of use.

all of mine run at around 4.3 volts when they are in variable mode, and go down from that.............

and when I run them in 'fixed voltage' mode, they test out at anywhere from 3.8 to 3.95 volts when on the 'fixed' setting............

I was cool with that until last Friday when I bought a new ego-c upgrade 650 mah,
and I checked out the voltage in fixed mode, and it showed 3.4 volts......

I've heard that is what is normal.. (or even 3.3 volts)

now I realize that this is what they are supposed to register, but it's not what I'm used to, and it even runs down faster than my other batteries........

so I'm going to take it back to the shop and get it replaced......and I'm also going to bring in my volt meter to make sure of the volts this time.........

any comments or explanations why this might have happened.........?

(ya think I ended up with 6 flukes? all with a constant voltage of 3.8-3.95?)

thanks in advance

g

 

[Hermit]

You really need an oscilloscope to see exactly what's going on in regulated mode. Some multimeters won't read this type of signal correctly. Here's a fully charged Innokin 3.4V regulated ego battery:



For that batttery, my Fluke 87 III multimeter can tell me that it's PWM runs at 245.6Hz, the duty cycle is 85.2%, and the averaged voltage is 3.54V.

Why it's putting out 3.54V instead of 3.4V, I don't know. As the battery voltage drops, the PWM adjusts, reaching a point where it's on 100% of the time with a battery voltage of 3.4V. I'd have to do some more tests, but I think there is a limit on the PWM range (which would only affect the output voltage when the battery voltage is over 4V). Similar quirks could easily exist in other regulated batteries.

kachuge, Joye might have changed to a different chip, but since you say it runs down faster it's more likely that the battery isn't taking/holding a full charge properly, at a guess.

 

[kachuge]

Hey Hermit,

I think I'm inclined to agree with you about the oscilloscope reading.........with the batteries in fixed mode.... my voltmeter doesn't show one number......... it continuously flashes a range ........ie.........3.84 to 3.93 ...........and all random ones in between the two............ the numbers I've given above are averages

but like I said.......... I have six batteries that in fixed mode flash averages of 3.85 to 3.95............ and the average I get off of this new battery is pretty close to 3.4 v...............

I suspect it might be a used battery? I don't know......

but when batteries get older, I know that they hold less charge, but does their voltage go down also?

thanks for the comments,

g

 

[Hermit]

Most of my post was general info for the thread, but in your case, even if you're getting a wrong reading, you'd expect it to be _roughly_ the same wrong for all your batteries (of the same make, type, level of charge, etc), which somehow it isn't for the new batt.

I haven't got to the point of having any tired old batteries yet, and I haven't looked into exactly how they behave then. If one finishes charging though, it should be at close to 4.2V at that point.

What does the new battery read in variable mode, fresh off the charger? That would be a better way to test the health of the actual battery, removing most of the circuitry from the equation (but not the wiring).

 

[kachuge]

you're probably right about removing the circuitry........ and that could be the difference in the batteries........ and a change behind the scenes at the manufacturer...... read what happened when I took the battery back today.......

so....... isn't that funny............
I read someplace that ego-c and ego-t were the same battery............
but went to the store today to replace that new battery........ and we tested a whole bunch of batteries........
all the ego-c batteries showed about 3.3-3.4 volts in fixed mode, whereas all of the ego-t batteries showed 3.8 to 3.9 in fixed mode...
....but the batteries looked identical..........?!

so..... I got one of the ego-t batteries....... I figure half a volt makes a difference in wattage enough.........

maybe they just want to force me to go to a mod to get a decent voltage / wattage.... lol

g

 

[Traver]

but when batteries get older, I know that they hold less charge, but does their voltage go down also?

I have some old AW batteries and they still charge to 4.2 volts. These batteries are about four years old and I can only get about a half hour of vaping with them. They used to go all day when they were new. My guess is that the egos would act the same way.

Didn't the old egos have have two pulsed voltages, a higher and lower one, that averaged out at about 3.4 volts? I don't know if the new ones are still doing it that way.